Power running boards

[Gruffid]

I have the RSE rocksliders. They drop several inches and are great for my wife and two young kids - me too if I’m honest. I have the MOPAR 2” lift and stock 33” tires (rubicon)

some cons:
- really heavy. They’ll reduce your carrying capacity somewhat. A two person install job per side, or some creative use of Jack stands.
- I have had them fail to deploy, but very rarely.
- I have had to replace the motor on one side and an air piston on the other requiring dropping the entire side.
- it’s a pain to install (and remove if necessary to replace parts). You have to loosen the body bolts to install the mounting brackets, which can be problematic if one seizes like mine did. And you have to finagle the nuts into 20+ bolts in hard to reach places.

Pros:
- They’re really heavy and protect your truck really well and are designed to be used as rocksliders as well as steps (hence the name), something the AMP steps I don’t think are designed to do.
- they stick out about as far as the tire fenders do which protects from door dings, rocks being kicked up (protects hinge paint), and makes a nice platform to step on to clean windshield or roof.
- the control module is only connected to the battery, so no messing with stock wiring.
- the steps are actuated by magnets you stick on the door and sensors you stick in the door jam. The sensors are a part of the RSE control module harness. You’ll need to remove the b and c pillar panels and door sill panels to run the wires so they are mostly hidden. The step control wires and optional lights (come on when the steps deploy) I routed through the floor plugs under the rear seat footwell/carpet.
- it comes with a power override switch so you can leave them deployed or retracted as desired. It will also mitigate battery drain, and you can “lock” them retracted while wheeling.
- huge cool factor! I get comments all the time.

Some caveats to my personal situation
- my gladiator is a diesel, so my carrying capacity is already limited. Gas engine gladiators may not have as much an issue since they have increased carrying capacity compared to the diesel models. As a result, when I was having front suspension issues, Jeep initially blamed my RSEs for the bottoming out. As a result, they had to remove them and reinstall to rule out whether they were causing the suspension issues.

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[ShadowsPapa]

@ShadowsPapa I’d love to see pics of your Gladiator with the snow plow, especially action photos!

@ShadowsPapa I’d love to see pics of your Gladiator with the snow plow, especially action photos!

Here's a link to pics in my project thread -

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-defender-snow-plow.63249/page-3#post-1083028

 

[ShadowsPapa]

- my gladiator is a diesel, so my carrying capacity is already limited. Gas engine gladiators may not have as much an issue since they have increased carrying capacity compared to the diesel models.

I bet your payload is higher than my gas powered Overland.......... mine is roughly 1,000 pounds and when you subtract the winch, steel bumper and front receiver from that you get about 875- 900 pounds remaining.

That would be the other negative for me - the payload loss.
On the other hand, my wife isn't opposed to the idea of these, just the price is a killer. I already blew through 6K on a plow and we ended up having to take from my retirement accounts to cover that, so.............
But she did comment this AM about her problems with her knees and now she's having to see a specialist about her shoulder and is concerned about that. If she has to have surgery on that, she's done. She was born with one good arm (thus her license restriction to an automatic), she can't pull herself into a vehicle with her right arm so these may be a necessity at some point.

 

[Gruffid]

I bet your payload is higher than my gas powered Overland.......... mine is roughly 1,000 pounds and when you subtract the winch, steel bumper and front receiver from that you get about 875- 900 pounds remaining.

That would be the other negative for me - the payload loss.
On the other hand, my wife isn't opposed to the idea of these, just the price is a killer. I already blew through 6K on a plow and we ended up having to take from my retirement accounts to cover that, so.............
But she did comment this AM about her problems with her knees and now she's having to see a specialist about her shoulder and is concerned about that. If she has to have surgery on that, she's done. She was born with one good arm (thus her license restriction to an automatic), she can't pull herself into a vehicle with her right arm so these may be a necessity at some point.

stock, my CCC is 956 lbs. That’s without the steel bumper, winch, rhino-rack with backbone, RSEs, fridge, awning, battery, and other recovery gear.

but the overall point is that depending on what else you have installed, the weight of these steps may be a consideration if weight is indeed something you’re concerned about.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

stock, my CCC is 956 lbs. That’s without the steel bumper, winch, rhino-rack with backbone, RSEs, fridge, awning, battery, and other recovery gear.

but the overall point is that depending on what else you have installed, the weight of these steps may be a consideration if weight is indeed something you’re concerned about.

Then we are within a few pounds of each other (uh, our trucks, that is) on payload. that's only a little below mine from the factory, stock.
Interesting that my Overland has a payload rating stock from the factory about the same as yours with the diesel., stock from the factory.
Mine is slightly more - and I mean slightly, without bumper, winch, front receiver, shackles, straps, tailgate ladder, bed rails etc.
The winch alone would, now that I think about it, drop mine to below 900 because the winch and plate are 100 pounds.
Bumper is probably another 60 if the stock plastic bumper was 15-20 and the steel bumper is roughly 80. So I'm sitting most likely at 850 not counting the front receiver and the plow mounting hardware bolted to the frame.
I wonder what the RSE steps weigh...... I'd likely be maxed out while towing my trailer.

 

[Gruffid]

My truck’s CCC seems to be about 200-300 lbs less than comparably equipped gas rubicons. I think a lot of them have between 1150-1250 lb CCC.

Maybe yours is normal for a gas overland.

I also used to tow a travel trailer. It was a Jayco Jayflight 264BH, about 4,800 lbs dry, and approximately 30’ overall length. Between the weight of the truck with accessories, the tongue weight, and the weight of my two adult, two kid family, my truck was decently overweight. This was evident in some overheating issues I encountered. The suspension took the weight fine and the weight smoothed the road out appreciably. But I was concerned about safety and we were growing out of the trailer, despite sufficient bed space.

I also used to have an RSI smartcap that I sold due to weight concerns and replaced it with the Bestop softopper. I also like that I can remove the softopper by myself.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Now I'm really curious - how far out do the RSE devices stick out from the body - the same as Overland running boards? Any measurement to compare to these?

Basically, the MOPAR splash guards are even with the fender flare, and the running boards are even with the splash guards ->

Asking because after church tonight, we went to the Legion's bingo night and my wife's sister was there. (chili supper and cinnamon rolls).
My wife told her sister it was our 34th and that I got her a couple of things for her Rudolph collection. Then she asked my wife what I got - and my wife said "he's getting some of those power steps for his truck".
Really? I thought to myself!
Then my wife explained to her sis that "we can't afford them now but in a couple of months........"

So I guess it's apparently ok if I get a set LOL

BUT - I want to make sure it's the right choice for us.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Now I'm really curious - how far out do the RSE devices stick out from the body - the same as Overland running boards? Any measurement to compare to these?

Basically, the MOPAR splash guards are even with the fender flare, and the running boards are even with the splash guards ->

Asking because after church tonight, we went to the Legion's bingo night and my wife's sister was there. (chili supper and cinnamon rolls).
My wife told her sister it was our 34th and that I got her a couple of things for her Rudolph collection. Then she asked my wife what I got - and my wife said "he's getting some of those power steps for his truck".
Really? I thought to myself!
Then my wife explained to her sis that "we can't afford them now but in a couple of months........"

So I guess it's apparently ok if I get a set LOL

BUT - I want to make sure it's the right choice for us.

I’ll measure them for you tomorrow, and will take some close up pics of where they meet the fenders.

 

[Stitchedupseats]

Just test drove a 2023 Gladiator Overland. The problem was my wife who has had both knees replaced 5 years ago cannot pick up her leg to get in with the factory running boards.Has anyone installed the AMP Research power running boards on their stock height Gladiator?If so does it make getting in and out of the Jeep easier and how many inches do the steps lower.Thanks in advance for any information you can give me.

I have the xl power steps. It is great for my wife at stock height rubicon. She started to have to strain a little once I was on 37”s.
We put on her wrangler before too. Will be installing a set tomorrow on the new gladiator. The xl do come about 3” lower than the regulars.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’ll measure them for you tomorrow, and will take some close up pics of where they meet the fenders.

Well, looks like I get to find out first-hand how these things work, and what's involved for an install.

Will be interesting to see how wiring gets routed on a Wrangler 4xe - it's REALLY REALLY tight between frame and floor pan on one side. I can't stick my fingers in there to feel the hole in the floor on the left side (or was that the right side - when installing the Jeep mats I felt to make sure the mat nipple stuck through the hole in the floor and could almost touch that floor hole on one side - it's TIGHT)

I may do her Jeep first because the steps will be shorter and the Jeep is newer, no rust, no dirt and grime, etc.

I've been assured that you can use the top of these as a step, besides the step that lowers.

Too bad they don't come in PURPLE.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Well, looks like I get to find out first-hand how these things work, and what's involved for an install.

Will be interesting to see how wiring gets routed on a Wrangler 4xe - it's REALLY REALLY tight between frame and floor pan on one side. I can't stick my fingers in there to feel the hole in the floor on the left side (or was that the right side - when installing the Jeep mats I felt to make sure the mat nipple stuck through the hole in the floor and could almost touch that floor hole on one side - it's TIGHT)

I may do her Jeep first because the steps will be shorter and the Jeep is newer, no rust, no dirt and grime, etc.

I've been assured that you can use the top of these as a step, besides the step that lowers.

Too bad they don't come in PURPLE.

You can definitely stand in the top. I do it all the time. Solid as hell. The hole for entering the cabin is inside the frame rail. Easier to start in the inside to find it. It’s glued in.

Edit: A floor jack or two make it an easy install with one person.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You can definitely stand in the top. I do it all the time. Solid as hell. The hole for entering the cabin is inside the frame rail. Easier to start in the inside to find it. It’s glued in.

Edit: A floor jack or two make it an easy install with one person.

It will be interesting as the 4xe has a lot of differences behind the front seats. My wife commented on how little leg room there was in the back, and the back seats can't fold down flat and be level with the cargo area - there's an 8" difference.
The floor pan is very different, as are the back seats, likely the frame is different as well.
Anyway, it will be very interesting.
I've not found anyone who has installed these on a 4xe - Wranglers, yeah, but not the JLU 4xe.
And of course, Gladiator installs - I just come here to see who has done what.

I will be trying to NOT run directly to the battery. I'll try first to run up to the spare terminal on the high current fuse array.
On the 4xe, terminals 3 and 4 are "spare" and unused
On the Gladiator, terminal 8 should be full power, and is unused or take it to N2 which runs right to the main battery. I don't want yet another connection on top
Both are connected to the main battery. I don't want yet another connection run to the top of the main battery - already have my plow/winch power going to + and 2 big ground cables going to the - side.
Going to N2 or N8 would mean it would actually be hidden (and no dealer would open the hood and say "there's your electrical problem" because they'd not even SEE it.

The instructions say NOT to run the ground up to the main battery because the harness isn't long enough - they say run to a body ground.
That means I need to lift my terminal strips up out of the way to access the body ground since those studs are all now under my terminals and plow fuse, etc. - can't get to them!
OR, run a much larger wire from the body ground up to my terminal strip ground screws and use that.........

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've read and read the PDF directions preparing for a now delayed delivery............
And I've been all over under and around my Jeep - I've run a heck of a lot of wire and cable in this thing for the snow plow, backup lights and 12v power to the bed, all taking a path similar to what the RSE instructions indicate but for the life of me - what the he## is this picture supposed to be?
I've even gotten into things to put pigtail connections in the fender lights to trigger my plow lights, the wires from the aux switches run back and down along/in the right frame rail, all going down like RSE wants theirs and I still don't recognize this picture! Were they under it standing on their head or something?

 

[WILDHOBO]

I've read and read the PDF directions preparing for a now delayed delivery............
And I've been all over under and around my Jeep - I've run a heck of a lot of wire and cable in this thing for the snow plow, backup lights and 12v power to the bed, all taking a path similar to what the RSE instructions indicate but for the life of me - what the he## is this picture supposed to be?
I've even gotten into things to put pigtail connections in the fender lights to trigger my plow lights, the wires from the aux switches run back and down along/in the right frame rail, all going down like RSE wants theirs and I still don't recognize this picture! Were they under it standing on their head or something?

That’s the end of the harness. That’s the wire that goes to the driver foot well for the power cut off switch.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That’s the end of the harness. That’s the wire that goes to the driver foot well for the power cut off switch.

Please take a look again - that's their text and their red arrow, not mine. The paragraph on both the JL and JT instructions show that picture - and say to run the cable to the battery, and point to it.....

Run red wire with fuse holder from rear passenger door (right side) .... next to the lower battery area:

And their red arrow points to this -

Doesn't look like driver side footwell or the wires to the switch, IMO.

They show the same thing in their video -

But they must have a fender off or something and they whiz through every step so danged fast you can't tell what's going on - like wait a minute - where exactly is that? Did they remove the fender liner or fender? Where'd they get that shot?

It's definitely not the driver side footwell, but don't recognize those parts either.

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