Hootbro
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That would suggest the K08 relay or the control side of it not working. Still does not make sense to me because all those other systems would be failed also.
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Power steering failure….again
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Hootbro
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Are you putting the meter leads across both sides of the fuse with your leads and not one to the fuse and the other to ground?
This is why I hate trying to trouble shoot electrical through the internet.
This is why I hate trying to trouble shoot electrical through the internet.
PuddleJumper
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PuddleJumper
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If its not a fuse or relay. I'd check continuity on its primary ground. And make sure its socket isn't shot or not fully plugged in.
Edit: quick and dirty trick to rule out the electric pump. unplug it and hook up a 12-18v powertool battery and see if it cycles. If it don't u got a bad pump. If it does you got a wiring problem.
Edit: quick and dirty trick to rule out the electric pump. unplug it and hook up a 12-18v powertool battery and see if it cycles. If it don't u got a bad pump. If it does you got a wiring problem.
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Maximus Gladius
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I make contact with both points on the fuse.
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Maximus Gladius
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Dealership took the truck immediately and gave me a loaner! I’ll keep you all in the loop!
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loaner jeep is the most capable jeep
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N6 in case no one else has spoken up - there's a control fuse in the PDC but the pump is N6 if I am correct - EHPS for Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering at 125 amps
Same on JL, etc.
Same on JL, etc.
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IS this the sort of thing where there's no current unless there's a load on the steering?
Hootbro
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Then all you checked was millivolt voltage drop across the fuse and that is only really usefull if narrowing down parasitic draw. Positive lead should have been on the fuse and negative to body ground point checking for whole 12vdc voltage.
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Maximus Gladius
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Well gosh darn! ? Let’s hope the tech knows better than me!
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Maximus Gladius
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So, my SA got back to me to say the tech needs 3 hours to go through the harness and asked if I was good with it. I first said sure but then I said I’ve had 3 pumps crap out on me with the same harness so why don’t we just turf that one and put in a new one.?? I’m waiting on a price for the new one. I think that makes the most sense than putting out 3 hours labour to go through a crap harness.
BeckBuilt
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In case it wasn't stated. N6 should have constant 12V, even with key off. That terminal runs straight to the pump. I just removed the pump and associated wiring on a 2023 JT.
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Maximus Gladius
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Would you say replacing the harness is better than digging through the old one?
ShadowsPapa
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See my prior post - N7 goes directly to the alternator fuse. It may appear to be the EHPS because it's all on the same bus, but N6 is the fuse for the PS, N7 is the fuse for the alternator.
It has constant power because it goes to the alternator and batteries. Any terminal along that fuse array N2 through N8, will be hot unless that leg of the fuse is blown. N1 should have power at all times as well since it goes directly to the aux battery.
In other words, all of those will be hot at all times.
But only N6 is for the EHPS. If it's not hot, that fuse is blown.
N2 - crank battery to the bus or main part of the high current fuse.
N3 - PCR
N4 - not used with gas,
N5 - Radiator fan
N6 - PS Pump (EHPS)
N7 - Alternator
Be careful - he's incorrect on how these are wired......... unless it was just a typo.
(EDIT - apparently it was just a typo)
I previously posted the correct fuse terminal uses. N6 is power steering. 7 is alternator.
And frankly, ALL of them should be hot at all times since they are all connected directly to the battery.
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