Pretty sure the 8.4 and the tech package are an either/or, you dont do (or get charged) both.
What options are you looking for on the Willys that you're not finding on a Sport S with Max Tow that you want? I know of tires at least, I got that. For the most part those of us that wanted a very capable truck but not a Rubi got the Sport S with Max Tow (now referred to as MT, not for manual transmission). The only thing I want to put on my MT that the Ruby has over it are quick disconnect front stabilizer bars. The Rubi has electronic versions that I hear fail with some frequency and the quick discos are fairly easy and cheap to install. Another great thing about the MT is that it's already a great platform and it's easy to mod it to near or above Rubi levels for much, much less money overall, though we can't wrap the extra expense in our loan.
. Just be aware that if you get the Alpine system you lose some storage space behind the rear seats for the sub and its guts, but that's minimal.
I have about the opposite to say for the nav and app auto-start. The nav to me is top notch and 1 of the best systems out there I've used. Takes a minute to boot but is fairly responsive and accurate. The app can help provide some piece of mind too. If you're out of reach with your key and not sure if you locked it, send a lock cmd and be done, no matter how far away. Same with remote start. I work in the city and my old garage was about 2 city blocks away and it would turn on just fine (may have problems with reception blocked in some concrete jungles. While you said most of those features are "neat" (and they are), sometimes they are what makes a huge difference in an otherwise bleh dayl
Correct. Build a Sport S and the option is there. Your Willys, while listed as a different model, is just a Sport S with the Willys package. It is not capable of being Willys with Max Tow.
That's a cool option not available on the sports, but on the Rubicon.
Have you tried adjusting the lights using the adjustment screws?
There are adjustment screws? @.@ Honestly I just took out the old halogens, put the new LEDs in, and now have 3 washers in place on each of the 4 top screws (2 each) on each housing. My old car has articulating an self leveling headlights so I've not messed with them much lol.
I did not think this was the case - Sport S invoice starts at $35,858, Rubicon at $41,913. That's a difference of $6,055. The difference is only $4,935 if you get a Sport S MT.
Thanks, I really hate the wheels that come on the sport and figure I could live with the Willys wheels. Wonder what the market for take-offs is near me. It would be awesome if they gave a 4.10 (or even 4.56) option stand alone. Jeep knows good and well people are going to be putting larger tires on these things
Daggit! lol. I've not priced anything out. And as I stated, the only thing I really want that I don't have are quick discos. Everything else to me is meh. It's why I suggested to OP to look at what's missing and see if price is good.
What options are you looking for on the Willys that you're not finding on a Sport S with Max Tow that you want? I know of tires at least, I got that. For the most part those of us that wanted a very capable truck but not a Rubi got the Sport S with Max Tow (now referred to as MT, not for manual transmission). The only thing I want to put on my MT that the Ruby has over it are quick disconnect front stabilizer bars. The Rubi has electronic versions that I hear fail with some frequency and the quick discos are fairly easy and cheap to install. Another great thing about the MT is that it's already a great platform and it's easy to mod it to near or above Rubi levels for much, much less money overall, though we can't wrap the extra expense in our loan.
Mostly decent looking wheels. I can’t stand the cheap looking wheels on the Sport S. I might just have to live with them until I can find some nicer take-offs like I did for my Wife’s JKU. Got a set of Rubicon Hard Rock take-offs for her
As for some of your other questions, I have the 8.4 and premium audio and I love it. The audio isn't the best system in the world but for being an all weather system it's pretty nice. It's got quite a bit of base of mids/highs aren't too bad either. It's not a reference system and most decent car systems will outdo it, but not with the top off
Im really on the fence about the 8.4/Alpine. $2k is a lot of money. Wish I could get the 8.4 without the Alpine
I've seen youtube vids of people taking the hard top off single-handedly so I know it can be done.
It's not exactly heavy but it is certainly unwieldy. While I could probably do it the process requires you do it from the bed and hop down. The entire process, provided you find 1 that works for you, can end up as a $2k+ mistake.
I’ll have to see about taking the top off myself. I used to remove the top on my 90 Bronco by myself in my younger days, but I can’t do my wife’s JKU top without help
I don't have the soft top and all but refuse to get 1. You'll not find much love for it on these forums for the AESTHETIC reasons at least. We here call it a man bun and despise it lol. Utility wise I'm sure it's "fine" but I don't like the fact that it folds over the way it does. To me it seems like a poor design and like the top is acting like a big drag/air catcher. If they put it behind the rear seats like the Wranglers that would solve most of our hate for it. Hothead also makes a soft top insulator, it's basically a sheet that is between you and the soft top and is attached to the roll bars on the top. You'd want it there for winter but if you want to take the top off in the warmer months you'd want to take it off as it stays in place, either on/off and takes a few mins to don/doff.
I will say that I love my hard top and it makes the JT quieter than I thought it would be. This is my first Jeep and always heard all the negatives about how loud an uncomfortable they were and it seems to be less so now than it used to be. I now have sound/heat insulation provided by Hothead headlliners and they are great, but a bit expensive (well worth it). If you can avoid the far inferior Mopar headliner, do it, and get the Hotheads (thicker and better quality all around). It really did quiet the cabin down and helps to maintain temps better.
do you have the factory insulation?
For the LED lights, you can go from about $35 - $1k+. I'm 1 of those horrible human beings that some people on this site sneer at because I went the cheap route with my lights and just put LEDs in the stock housing. It doesn't work exactly "the best" because it wasn't designed for LEDs, but with a few washers behind the housing to aim the lights down a bit I don't blind anyone and get really nice bright white light projected in front of me. I only upgraded my headlights and DRLs (DRLs are now white instead of yellow and much brighter and seen easier). Just be aware, some people say their lights flash and need to go to the dealer to get that fixed with a quick update (for a fee of course). With a full swap you'd probably have to do that as well. There are many threads here about different kinds of LED swaps, I'd suggest looking at those. Some people say heating them is an issue as they get iced over. I didn't have a problem with the snow you and I got yesterday and today.
Honestly if I was you I would look up the differences of the MT, Willys, and Rubi and see what the trim levels are missing from the 2 that aren't Rubis and see how much it would cost to get you where you want to be. Like I mentioned earlier, I wanted a Rubi but when I looked my MT had most of what I wanted and what it didn't have I could add for under $1k myself (not super mechanically inclined for cars). The Rubi had other stuff I just didn't care about that I would've had to pay for, but didn't now.
I’d love to have a rubicon but it just isn’t in the budget. I’m now deciding whether the 4.10s are worth paying $1300 when I could spend $2k and have a non-MT re
1 last thing, be aware that driving dynamics are different for all of these. The steering and ride differs in each due to their purposes. The MT/Willys will probably ride around the same but the MT will be more stiff of a ride because of the springs on it, being progressive springs you may bounce a little more in your seat (think sports car-ish level, you'll feel stuff in the road). The Rubi has more dead steering, apparently that's a consiquence of its offroad rock crawling nature. Maybe someone can explain it more technical terms if you care that much. And finally, the Mojave, from what I hear, has a much nicer ride (not as bouncy/firm) due to its suspension setup as its claim to fame is baja style ride/handling. I def suggest testing each of them you're considering.
Hope any of that helps.
VERY helpful, thank you
In my case:
Do you have a link to the stereo you used?
