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Question about piggyback fuse holders

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Geo Jeep

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Don't mean to butt in, I installed 12v power in the bed just like the way you are looking at. The exception is that I have it connected to the aftermarket aux switches. So even with the truck on, I have control of the 12v power in the bed. The in-line fuse holder I chose was 30amp. I just put a 20amp fuse in it. The wire is not marked on the fuse holder. The kit that I ran to the bed came with an 8ga wire.
I'm planning on eventually going to a Voswitch setup but not yet, so for now it will likely go directly to the battery using an inline fuse. Do you know where you got yours? I'm struggling to find an inline fuse with a decent gauge wire. I do have the ARB wiring kit in my Amazon list, but I think I'll be going with a flush mount plug as I'm just concerned about knocking the ARB plug around while moving stuff in and out of the bed.
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Advanced auto sells the 30a in-line fuse holder that I used. It shows it to be 12g. I found an in-line fuse holder on Amazon with a 10g wire.
Whoops, now I see it! thanks
 
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Don't mean to butt in, I installed 12v power in the bed just like the way you are looking at. The exception is that I have it connected to the aftermarket aux switches. So even with the truck on, I have control of the 12v power in the bed. The in-line fuse holder I chose was 30amp. I just put a 20amp fuse in it. The wire is not marked on the fuse holder. The kit that I ran to the bed came with an 8ga wire.
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I just took a look at my bed and I see where you mounted that. It seems pretty protected. I may just end up getting the ARB one as the outlet and wiring are all in one set and the eyelets and inline fuse are already connected. Is the electrical connection for the ARB on the side mounted to the bed? I see there is a hole in the bed that would help for getting the wire through.
 

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I just took a look at my bed and I see where you mounted that. It seems pretty protected. I may just end up getting the ARB one as the outlet and wiring are all in one set and the eyelets and inline fuse are already connected. Is the electrical connection for the ARB on the side mounted to the bed? I see there is a hole in the bed that would help for getting the wire through.
Yes. The ARB plug screws in, so there is no worry about it coming unplugged when traveling. It comes with the traditional plug for 12v sockets too.
 

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This is the other type of fuse holder you could use. But you would need to pick a circuit to use it with. I used this type for the stech aux switch panel setup.
Jeep Gladiator Question about piggyback fuse holders Screenshot_20220906-131704_Amazon Shopping
 

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Yes. The ARB plug screws in, so there is no worry about it coming unplugged when traveling. It comes with the traditional plug for 12v sockets too.
Does the wiring come with a normal 12V socket? Somewhere I read that it wasn't, that it was just a special plug for the ARB fridge? Dunno, and it didn't seem to make sense but I thought that's what I read. I need a standard 12V socket back in the bed for all sorts of stuff, but not an ARB fridge,. I just liked their wiring package.
 
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I may have to refresh my memory. I will check when I get home. This is plug that I bought with my socket. It was a separate purchase. It has the standard end for a 12v powerport that screws off for the ARB socket. The ARB freezer came with one but was too short to work when the slide is pulled out.

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Lost1wing

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I looked again. The ARB socket is only threaded and has 2 prongs. The picture here is the ARB freezer extension plug. The normal 12v plug screws off and the extension threads into the socket. I know now that this is not what you wanted to here. I'm sure there are plenty options out there.
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I looked again. The ARB socket is only threaded and has 2 prongs. The picture here is the ARB freezer extension plug. The normal 12v plug screws off and the extension threads into the socket. I know now that this is not what you wanted to here. I'm sure there are plenty options out there.
20220906_183912.jpg
Thanks, you confirmed what I thought was the case. And yes, I've seen similar sockets like the ARB that are 12v standard opening, so I'll head down that road. I may still do something in that small square panel on the passenger side, not sure yet. I may end up using the ARB wiring since for me it's complete except for the actual socket, but like I said, I can find those. Thanks for your help!
 

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I was planning on installing the oem plug there. I bought the plug and then decided to go full oem installing the bezel and harness. Bezel was backordered for 6 months, so I just forgot about it. To be honest, 115vac is not one of my needs. I still haven't used the 115v plug at the backseat. A USB and/or another 12v socket would be handy.

I found that another brand freezer makes a socket with a standard and a threaded 2 pin. You could use the threaded one for a fridge and still be able to use a standard 12v plug. Dometic is the name.
 

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I was planning on installing the oem plug there. I bought the plug and then decided to go full oem installing the bezel and harness. Bezel was backordered for 6 months, so I just forgot about it. To be honest, 115vac is not one of my needs. I still haven't used the 115v plug at the backseat. A USB and/or another 12v socket would be handy.

I found that another brand freezer makes a socket with a standard and a threaded 2 pin. You could use the threaded one for a fridge and still be able to use a standard 12v plug. Dometic is the name.
Yeah I was thinking about the 115V but decided that it was unnecessary as the 400W inverter isn't very useful and I already have a plug behind the center console. I agree that the 12V will be far more practical. I'll take a look at the Dometic one. Thanks!
 

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At 400 watts, the 120v plug is not real useful, but it will charge the portable power boxes. Plug a fridge into the 12v port, and then plug the power box into the 120v outlet. The power box keeps the fridge running, and the outlet charges the power box while the engine is running. This keeps the fridge from draining the truck batteries.
 
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At 400 watts, the 120v plug is not real useful, but it will charge the portable power boxes. Plug a fridge into the 12v port, and then plug the power box into the 120v outlet. The power box keeps the fridge running, and the outlet charges the power box while the engine is running. This keeps the fridge from draining the truck batteries.
Yep that's a good solution!
 

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You could feed it off one of the AUX Switches. I think 1 and 2 are rated for 40 amps. Use an inline fuse rated for the capacity of the plug at the end of the wire. Then you can control when it is live.
I was going to recommend the same thing. If those are not available maybe consider adding a Switch Pros set up.
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