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RAKE: did some searching but questions

chorky

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Keep in mind if you eliminate rate, the moment you put anything in the bed you will have that squatter look. yuck.... It might be worth while figuring out what your loads look/feel like before just throwing in a spacer to get rid of rake. Personally I like rake as it make sure I am level when loaded and doesn't cause oncoming traffic to flash their brights all the time.
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jav_eee

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Dang. I don't know how you did it in an hour. Like ShadowsPapa mentioned about torquing all control arm hardware, it took some time.
Also installed geometry correction brackets, centered the steering wheel, drilled out holes for bump stops and shock extensions for the rear, and added wheel spacers. It was easy to take up 8 hours.

I usually check all items i touched to make sure i didnt miss anything.
like I told shadowpapa I wasn’t including the control arm torquing in that time. Just putting the spacers in. I also only did the front. Not the rear.
 

sharpsicle

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like I told shadowpapa I wasn’t including the control arm torquing in that time. Just putting the spacers in. I also only did the front. Not the rear.
I wouldn't skip the torqueing. That's important. Not worth the time savings to ignore that part.
 

jav_eee

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I wouldn't skip the torqueing. That's important. Not worth the time savings to ignore that part.
I guess you didn’t bother to read my other 2 replies because I said they should be loosened and retorqued* after the install.:facepalm:
 
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sharpsicle

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I guess you didn’t bother to read my other 2 replies because I said they should be loosened and reformers after the install.:facepalm:
OK fair enough. So there’s no way this could only take an hour unless you skip that. It might take an hour to do a step or two, but not to actually do the whole job.
 

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Mr._Bill

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I eliminated the rake on my Overland without any changes to the suspension. I added a RSI Smartcap with the roof rack and utility table (about 250 pounds). After throwing in what I carry for work, it sits level. I have some MaxTow springs to go on the rear, but those might make it sit too low.
 
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I dont put anything in the bed so not worried about that. Im leaning now toward front springs and shocks.. or like Camaroboi13 who did the 2” spacers with no other mods(brand?).. again want to level front without lots of expensive mods and the diesel factor means if it raises a gas 1” inch it may only be a half inch for me. .. i need 1.5-2”. So if anyone has any ideas on that.. ..
 
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dayusmc

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I think Clayton has Diesel specific springs. The good thing with Clayton is you can call and get someone on the phone and thet are Very helpful. I ended up buy most of my lift stuff from them...
 
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21_GLADIATOR

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Thanks man. I will definitely try that!
 
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21_GLADIATOR

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Also curious, how high of a spacer can you go on rear WITHOUT needing adjustment components and stay stock? 1.5"? 2.0"? Thanks.
 

j.o.y.ride

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2" spacer could give you a slight carolina squat, because the added height is not at the bumper but behind it. Geometry and stuff.
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