Rear end sagging

[rharr]

i had the same issue running a rock krawler 3" lift. I ended up swapping the +3" rear springs with +4.5" springs from RK and it worked like a charm. Gave me the preload i needed.

So you can add some 1.5" spacers for preload, or you try to find some +5.5 or +6 rear springs.
Rk makes a +4.5 dual rate spring. Evo makes a +6.5 straight rate spring, there may be some other options out there.

Since you paid for the springs and are just trying to get back to ride height, i would try the spacers first, since we are only talking about 1.5".

i won't bother with air bags it's just 1 more thing to go wrong.

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[Synctheship]

i had the same issue running a rock krawler 3" lift. I ended up swapping the +3" rear springs with +4.5" springs from RK and it worked like a charm. Gave me the preload i needed.

So you can add some 1.5" spacers for preload, or you try to find some +5.5 or +6 rear springs.
Rk makes a +4.5 dual rate spring. Evo makes a +6.5 straight rate spring, there may be some other options out there.

Since you paid for the springs and are just trying to get back to ride height, i would try the spacers first, since we are only talking about 1.5".

You mind sharing which kit you ended up with from RK? I plan on going that route and will have a RSI Smartcap. Was looking at the 3" options but still very undecided which route to go. Thanks!

21 JTRD as well.

 

[rharr]

You mind sharing which kit you ended up with from RK? I plan on going that route and will have a RSI Smartcap. Was looking at the 3" options but still very undecided which route to go. Thanks!

21 JTRD as well.

3.0" Diesel Adventure "No-Limits" Mid-Arm System
https://rockkrawler.com/3-0-diesel-adventure-no-limits-mid-arm-system/

I got their JT30ASNL-DS1 - 2.25" RRD SHOCKS and have been very pleased with them.

you may want to make your order over the phone and do a "custom" order and get the 4.5" rear springs instead of the 3".

I intentionally ordered the non adjustable kit without all the extra adjustable control arms, and fancy extra flex joints because i didn't want to have to chase extra maintenance items. (been there done that) and what i am doing now doesn't need that little extra flex.

The kit has been great out of the box and has good road manners.

I run a ARE topper with 2 trunks full of tools and general 4x4 stuff.

I kept my stock front drive shaft and added some 1/2" alum plate as spacers to drop the forward most skid plate bar so the shaft doesn't rub on it under full extension. Also added a 1" aluminum bar spacer to the drive shaft center bearing. You can get pre made spacers if you don't want to skrew with drilling or sourcing material.

If you do talk to RK, ask if they can bump the rebound of the shocks up "1 click" I think i would like just a little more rebound control in them and may have to investigate that when i end up servicing them.

 

[SteveInOrlando]

On a 4" lift spring?

Yes, the interesting thing about the way they engage the airlifts on our jeeps, you can use the small airbag that comes for stock height with the taller springs. It will stiffen the portion of the spring it engages with. It doesn't touch both top and bottom even on stock suspension.

A taller bag would be ideal, and a trailer shop might be able to help you get a set of airbags that fits better, or you might be able to order them from one of the airbag companies. You would just need to build your own kit.

 

[Deleted member 52902]

I know what your thinking. We all are.

If you can fit that jet engine in the front of the JEEP, I think we all will believe that, will guarantee your rear sag will dissappear. Air up the JEEP and trailer tires though. Installed, the side benefit may be just a little bit of increased performance. I'd buy and install a hard top headliner to reduce the noise a bit, if you don't already have one in place.

Operating it will require you to also add a telescopic refueling probe to the front of the JEEP so keep that in mind. These jet turbine engines use just a bit more fuel than the standard JEEP engines. Slow down occasionally for a preplanned alignment out front with a drogue line from a tanker driven in front of you. Or both of you stop at a Subway sandwich shop (because they are every few miles apart) to refuel with a cheaper hose line solution. All of this is fun to think about. Start the process by purchasing a good Pintle hitch to make off with, I mean borrow that trailered turbine.

Nobody will put two and two together as you tow this home covered in tarps. Except you might have drive this towed trailer load a bit speed less than 55 mph with those dumb little non-highway certified trailer tires. What was someone thinking when they set up that trailer?

Ok someone tell him what the tongue weight, towed weight and drag coefficient of the frontal area is for him to borrow this powerplant for awhile. Oh; your going to need a larger torque converter. Probably not wise to use with a stick.

Does this help?

 

[RanchoShocks]

Might be a solution...
HD coils from us

https://www.gorancho.com/products/accessories-components/rancho-hd-coil-spring-kit-rs80139.html

 

[Stan H]

Need some advice....

I have a 23 JTRD with a RUSTYS 4" lift and and a steel shell, it sits fairly level empty but sags when I start adding gear, it had a nice (required) rake before the addition of the shell and I need it back so I'm more level with gear and not doing the (fugly) Carolina squat....

What is a good solution?

Get rid of the lightweight pipe bumper get a a steel bumper and winch . And add airbags to the back. Or you can order some taller rear springs or get a rubber spacer for the bottom of the coil spring like what comes in a 2.5" spacer kit

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Here I thought originally that this was a topic about us older Jeep owners.
Guess I was wrong. Click bait.

 

[Teqsand]

Get rid of the lightweight pipe bumper get a a steel bumper and winch . And add airbags to the back. Or you can order some taller rear springs or get a rubber spacer for the bottom of the coil spring like what comes in a 2.5" spacer kit

It's not a lightweight bumper and it has a 12000 lb winch, intentionally overloading the front is not even close to a solution on many levels....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's not a lightweight bumper and it has a 12000 lb winch, intentionally overloading the front is not even close to a solution on many levels....

No kidding.

Get rid of the lightweight pipe bumper get a a steel bumper and winch .

That's a pretty sad solution - seriously over-loading the whole truck to "balance" it?
The issue is in the rear, not the front at all.

 

[Teqsand]

What year RAM 1500 did the rear suspension come from? 2019 I could find.... thinking about using RAM springs

 

[Rusty PW]

I had the Carli long travel air bags on my Power Wagon. They worked great. Too bad Carli doesn't make anything for the JT.

https://www.carlisuspension.com/pro...011-hemi-3in-suspension-long-travel-air-bags/

 

[Stan H]

Okay then how about taking the topper off and going with a rack and a tarp. When vehicles are too light in the rear in the winter we throw sandbags in to give it traction. But may not want to do that. How about getting an in the truck tent and setting it up when you get to said destination. ? It was only a suggestion. So here's one go get some air bags off a semi truck that will do the trick.

 

[chorky]

What year RAM 1500 did the rear suspension come from? 2019 I could find.... thinking about using RAM springs

I would suggest going to a scale and getting your truck weighed when in daily mode vs when loaded up for a trip mode. throwing money at it before you even know and understand the weight situation might work but might not.

I have used 1500 rams for years at work and they start sagging pretty bad after only a couple hundred pounds. And I dont think they worked for 4” of lift? I cant remember exactly though.

Before modifying my own Gladiator and before deciding on what lift to go with I made an extensive spreadsheet with calculations of permanent mount additions (like a canopy), semi permanent items (like say a fridge), and more temporary items (like food and clothes). Granted I knew most of what I wanted to install before even buying the JT as I was reading and exploring various forms for what others did in MY 19/20/21. Then I took the sticker weights and started adding things up. Before I purchased anything, I had a good idea of where it would be, and after going to a CAT scale, have found I am within 5% of my original calculations using a combination of manufacturer specs weights and physically weighing items.

Without datapoints like this, any part(s) you buy will essentially be a shotgun approach. It took me a solid week of a couple hours a night to developed a spreadsheet I was happy with but it helped me to avoid unnecessary money spent

 

[firemedic2714]

This is why if I ever do a lift, it's going be a lift only. Not a lift and front end level kit.

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