Rear pinion angle

[HappyGladiator]

I have the Mopar 2 inch lift and I added the Synergy adjustable rear CAs upper and lower. I took most of the angle out by lifting the front of the pinion.Adjusted the uppers a hair longer.
I have more power and better MPG now,,,LOL.

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[ducatijosh]

Lift installed. Didn’t help driveshaft angle as stated. Will use tomorrow to do an eyeball alignment.

As far as the rear goes you use the uppers to rotate the pinion and the lowers to center the axle in the fender right? Am I more concerned with the wheel in relation to the fender or the spring not bowing at all at ride hight? Or is this the same thing?

Thanks for all your help everyone!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Lift installed. Didn’t help driveshaft angle as stated. Will use tomorrow to do an eyeball alignment.

As far as the rear goes you use the uppers to rotate the pinion and the lowers to center the axle in the fender right? Am I more concerned with the wheel in relation to the fender or the spring not bowing at all at ride hight? Or is this the same thing?

Thanks for all your help everyone!

Of the spring is currently straight, and you’re happy with the wheel in the wheel well, do both together, equal measurements. Shorten lowers, lengthen uppers. I’d start with 1/4”.

 

[ducatijosh]

Funny story, after getting the lift all installed I pulled the wheel chocks and rolled the gladiator back a foot. Driveshaft to Pinion angle is perfect without touching anything. Torqued it all down

 

[smlobx]

If you look at the AEV complete lift kit for our Gladiators they include spacers for the carrier bearing…

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jt-2-5-dualsport-rt-suspension/

 

[Outback_Joe]

Driveline out on the ground.

Measure rear flange on transfer case, this angle should match flange on rear diff. So if transfer case flange at 5 degrees rear diff should be 5 degrees or within 1/2 degree +-. Some minor offset or difference is okay. Looking at your original photo diff is low in front.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Driveline out on the ground.

Measure rear flange on transfer case, this angle should match flange on rear diff. So if transfer case flange at 5 degrees rear diff should be 5 degrees or within 1/2 degree +-. Some minor offset or difference is okay. Looking at your original photo diff is low in front.

Doesn't matter on CV joints, only cardan joints.
There is no rotational speed change on CVs (thus the term, constant velocity!)
You can run multiple degree differences on CVs.

If you have cardan or cross type joints on BOTH ends of a shaft, they need to match but be reversed to cancel out the velocity differences. If you have a cross/Hooke/Cardan joint on one end of a given shaft, run it close to 0 (best not AT 0, but close)
Constant velocity joints don't matter.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Doesn't matter on CV joints, only cardan joints.
There is no rotational speed change on CVs (thus the term, constant velocity!)
You can run multiple degree differences on CVs.

If you have cardan or cross type joints on BOTH ends of a shaft, they need to match but be reversed to cancel out the velocity differences. If you have a cross/Hooke/Cardan joint on one end of a given shaft, run it close to 0 (best not AT 0, but close)
Constant velocity joints don't matter.

^
This.

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