Rear sway bar link upper nut threads stripped

[AGladiator22]

I know Heli-coils are strong, but for that purpose I would go with a Keensert. It is stronger than the bolt.
Of course if the hole isn’t rounded or the damage is minimal a Heli-coil might do the job just fine.
These guys might have information?? It seems most places want you to call for information in regards to Keensert.

Thanks. Had not heard of these,,,which check it out.

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[AGladiator22]

We use Helicoils all the time for aluminum intake repairs, alternator mounting hole repairs and more. They are tough - never seen one pull out yet. You set them with red loctite, and the special tap cuts some deep threads for them to go into. I'd trust them - even more with a nut on the other side like Russ indicated.
The problem presented above was a loose bolt that was allowed to stay loose and wobble out the hole - not a problem with the threads or the hole itself! So technically, Helicoil would be much stronger than original, and with a nut to lock the bolt in place - problem solved. The issue was the bolt came loose - and ran that way for a time, not the strength of the threads.

Thanks,, I’ll check these out.

 

[bill61]

We use Helicoils all the time for aluminum intake repairs, alternator mounting hole repairs and more. They are tough - never seen one pull out yet. You set them with red loctite, and the special tap cuts some deep threads for them to go into. I'd trust them - even more with a nut on the other side like Russ indicated.
The problem presented above was a loose bolt that was allowed to stay loose and wobble out the hole - not a problem with the threads or the hole itself! So technically, Helicoil would be much stronger than original, and with a nut to lock the bolt in place - problem solved. The issue was the bolt came loose - and ran that way for a time, not the strength of the threads.

And actually Heli-Coils are installed in aluminum as OEM in many aircraft assemblies. We used them and Keenserts, but Heli-coils much more (because they are cheaper and lighter). Either of them are much stronger than just threads and they increase the strength of the thread because (as you mentioned) it is a larger area.

 

[Rusty PW]

And actually Heli-Coils are installed in aluminum as OEM in many aircraft assemblies. We used them and Keenserts, but Heli-coils much more (because they are cheaper and lighter). Either of them are much stronger than just threads and they increase the strength of the thread because (as you mentioned) it is a larger area.

At Elliott Turbo Machinery. We used heli-coils in aluminum parts too. A lot of companies do. We used them for repairs too.

 

[AGladiator22]

Thanks for the responses. Got it together; used a 70mm bolt with 1 flat washer on the head side. Much easier to disconnect the lower bolt and install top bolt first. Ample bolt length, so added a lock nut also. Figured I’d need that extra hold since I’m sure I mangled the threads when forcing the first bolt in while the lower link was connected,,,it just would not line up well.

 

[Vtur]

Metalcloak reenforce brackets comes with correct thread 70mm bolts and prevail/lock nuts.

 

[gearhead22]

Thanks for the responses. Got it together; used a 70mm bolt with 1 flat washer on the head side. Much easier to disconnect the lower bolt and install top bolt first. Ample bolt length, so added a lock nut also. Figured I’d need that extra hold since I’m sure I mangled the threads when forcing the first bolt in while the lower link was connected,,,it just would not line up well.

I was installing my lift when the rear sway bar captured but stripped. What did you end up doing? I was just going to drill it out and put a m12x1.75 bolt through with a nut on the back. Not sure this is the best thing to do though.

 

[gearhead22]

What you can do is use a longer bolt that goes all the way through. And use a self locking aircraft nut on the other side. That's what I did. Think I used either a 70mm or a 80mm long bolt. Forgot which one. Plus I used flat washers too.

Are you saying you drilled it out and slid a bolt through and put a nut on the backside? I was installing my lift and the rear captured nut stripped out on me so now I’m screwed. Was thinking it drill it out enough to get a m12x1.75 through there and put a nut on the backside.

 

[Rusty PW]

Are you saying you drilled it out and slid a bolt through and put a nut on the backside? I was installing my lift and the rear captured nut stripped out on me so now I’m screwed. Was thinking it drill it out enough to get a m12x1.75 through there and put a nut on the backside.

Yep, that's what I did. Been working well for over 40,00 miles.

 

[gearhead22]

Yep, that's what I did. Been working well for over 40,00 miles.

I ended up grabbing a 12x1.75 tap and re tapped the hole. Put a new bolt in, torqued down to 80, then added a nut on the backside. I imagine it should be ok.

 

[Rusty PW]

I ended up grabbing a 12x1.75 tap and re tapped the hole. Put a new bolt in, torqued down to 80, then added a nut on the backside. I imagine it should be ok.

Yep, you're good to go.

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