Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System

[Duke56]

Oh what fun it is to ride in a one horse .....
You know the rest....

Thank you

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[jjmstang]

Dammit, just received a phone call from my shop saying they won't get the lift until July

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Dammit, just received a phone call from my shop saying they won't get the lift until July

I'm sorry, WHAT?!?!?! nothing and I mean NOTHING is 4 months out. Not even close. They're not giving you accurate info by a long shot.

 

[Relentless_Eric]

So after chasing some clunks that have developed in my suspension when hitting a bump, it looks as though my front track bar frame mount has developed some play/elongated the hole(can watch bolt move side to side when the steering wheel is turned left/right when parked). The bolt is red locktite'd and torqued to 150ftlbs. Any suggestions on a repair? Synergy track bar mount/sector shaft brace solve the problem for me? Or should I just add some 1/4" plate weld washers to the bracket and call it good, however that would prevent the sector shaft brace from being installed in the future.
My rear seems to have loosened up a bit as well but everything is torqued properly as well(clunks a little over certain bumps or when switching trans from fwd to rev). Could this be play in the joints already (only 2000 miles lifted)? If so would tightening down the retaining ring on the rebuildable joints and locking the set screws to the new location be suitable to tighten them back up? Just trying to prevent future headaches chasing/repairing brackets from sloppy mounting holes and also make my truck as quiet/smooth as possible. Should I be torquing the link bolts past 150ftlbs? Instructions stated 140-160 so I split the difference when putting on the kit. Thanks for any insight @Rock Krawler Suspension

Bump for feedback since my post seems to have been missed
@Rock Krawler Suspension

Small update... Purchased the brace but havent installed it yet. Also blasted the front sway bar link ends with WD40 and it seems to have quieted the 'creaking' noises I was hearing for the most part. Still seems like the rear sway bar link bushings are a little noisy though.

 

[jjmstang]

I'm sorry, WHAT?!?!?! nothing and I mean NOTHING is 4 months out. Not even close. They're not giving you accurate info by a long shot.

PM sent x2

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Bump for feedback since my post seems to have been missed
@Rock Krawler Suspension

Small update... Purchased the brace but havent installed it yet. Also blasted the front sway bar link ends with WD40 and it seems to have quieted the 'creaking' noises I was hearing for the most part. Still seems like the rear sway bar link bushings are a little noisy though.

Eric, I'm sorry, I guess I did miss that one. If you can see the bolt moving, it isn't tight. If it has egged out the hole on the factory bracket, a reinforcement bracket or weld washers would solve that problem. The Synergy brace will take care of that for you.

 

[Relentless_Eric]

Eric, I'm sorry, I guess I did miss that one. If you can see the bolt moving, it isn't tight. If it has egged out the hole on the factory bracket, a reinforcement bracket or weld washers would solve that problem. The Synergy brace will take care of that for you.

Thanks, I'll probably install the brace this weekend. I did torque to spec on install, but it seems some of the washboarded roads around me determined it to not be torqued enough, even with my tires down at 15psi.
On the rear if I'm noticing clunks at certain times do you recommend anything other than just ensuring all of the link bolts are torqued to spec, or like I mentioned initially would it be good to check the preload/tightness of the rings on the rebuildable joints?

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

PM sent x2

Thanks, I'll probably install the brace this weekend. I did torque to spec on install, but it seems some of the washboarded roads around me determined it to not be torqued enough, even with my tires down at 15psi.
On the rear if I'm noticing clunks at certain times do you recommend anything other than just ensuring all of the link bolts are torqued to spec, or like I mentioned initially would it be good to check the preload/tightness of the rings on the rebuildable joints?

I would try to replicate the clunk in a static environment. I usually find that I can unbolt the shocks and bounce the truck enough to find the source of the noise. could be something loose, could be something interfering, possibilities are endless.

I would not think that you'd need to check preload on the joint retainers, the joints are built with Ingersoll-Rand shutoff guns so it would be nearly impossible to have a joint with a low torque retainer, the human error possibility is basically non-existant.

 

[wch_Chip]

I would try to replicate the clunk in a static environment. I usually find that I can unbolt the shocks and bounce the truck enough to find the source of the noise. could be something loose, could be something interfering, possibilities are endless.

I would not think that you'd need to check preload on the joint retainers, the joints are built with Ingersoll-Rand shutoff guns so it would be nearly impossible to have a joint with a low torque retainer, the human error possibility is basically non-existant.

Couldn't the joints just need grease?

 

[Relentless_Eric]

Couldn't the joints just need grease?

I bought the special grease from RK and greased them with 2 pumps of grease a week after install and then 1 more pump when I noticed the noises developing around a month-month and a half after install, plus sprayed the outsides of the joints with WD per RK's instructions in the install sheet. The install sheet seems to lead to them being more concerned with over greasing than under greasing of the joints.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Couldn't the joints just need grease?

Rather unlikely, the joints don't rely on grease to keep the joint centered, they only rely on grease for lubrication. A clunk would be more indicative of a looseness or interference than a dry joint. Squeaks and Creeks would be more indicative of a dry joint.

 

[wch_Chip]

Rather unlikely, the joints don't rely on grease to keep the joint centered, they only rely on grease for lubrication. A clunk would be more indicative of a looseness or interference than a dry joint. Squeaks and Creeks would be more indicative of a dry joint.

Good to know. Thank you.

 

[wch_Chip]

I bought the special grease from RK and greased them with 2 pumps of grease a week after install and then 1 more pump when I noticed the noises developing around a month-month and a half after install, plus sprayed the outsides of the joints with WD per RK's instructions in the install sheet. The install sheet seems to lead to them being more concerned with over greasing than under greasing of the joints.

Might be something easy like the lower shock bolts. I know in the front if they are put in the "wrong" way the end of the bolt will hit the LCA.

 

[MATANZAS STING RAY]

Rather unlikely, the joints don't rely on grease to keep the joint centered, they only rely on grease for lubrication. A clunk would be more indicative of a looseness or interference than a dry joint. Squeaks and Creeks would be more indicative of a dry joint.

Just a big shout out to tech Support and Adam C. at RK.... Had an issue during install and Adam jumped right on it to assist... turned out I installed the Upper Rear Control Arms (JT Pro X kit) upside down (Adam, please put a pic in the instructions), got it sorted out and everything's great now! One man install, 16 hrs going slowly and pre-adjusted all arms on the bench prior to install I have prior experience with installations and the tools needed, except a lift).....Test drive and this kit already feels great! It will need 3/4 front spacers to level the front out and will run extended brake lines shortly as an extra measure of safety as they are at their limit. Alignment next week and final torque of all components... Thanks RK!

 

[Harold0819]

Just a big shout out to tech Support and Adam C. at RK.... Had an issue during install and Adam jumped right on it to assist... turned out I installed the Upper Rear Control Arms (JT Pro X kit) upside down (Adam, please put a pic in the instructions), got it sorted out and everything's great now! One man install, 16 hrs going slowly and pre-adjusted all arms on the bench prior to install I have prior experience with installations and the tools needed, except a lift).....Test drive and this kit already feels great! It will need 3/4 front spacers to level the front out and will run extended brake lines shortly as an extra measure of safety as they are at their limit. Alignment next week and final torque of all components... Thanks RK!

Looks great, can't wait to install mine.
Are the 3/4" spacers something you needed because of heavier front end items? Bumper, winch, etc or just to completely eliminate any rake?

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