Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System

[Duke56]

Some helpful hints: Once you get the rear LCA`s set there is no room to get red Loctite on the threads, what i did was set the measurement then back up the Krawler Joint four full turns run the jam nut against the the LCA then apply red Lotite on the exposed threads, back out the jam nuts then run in the Krawler Joints the four full turns in to the original measurement. Now torque the jam nut the best you can with a crowfoot and torque wrench. Use red Loctite 277 it`s for larger nuts and bolts.

Next installing the rear cradle: Start with a drill bit a couple sizes smaller than the one provided by RK then work your way up to the RK drill bit, this will prevent any binding of drill bits and possible breaking of a drill bit. Drill down until the drill bit bottoms then use compressed air to clean holes. Tap holes slowly and straight using WD-40, a couple turns in then a couple of turns out do this until the tap bottoms, remove tap and clean the holes with compressed air then run the tap in again until it bottoms and clean holes. Once you install the cradle make sure the bolts compress against the lock washers, the front bolt on the drivers side would not compress against the lock washer it would get tight but was not compressing the lock washer fully, i took everything apart and measured the hole depths and that hole was not as deep as the rest, the casting on my axle in that hole was different than the others so i bought a bolt that was a 1/4" shorter. Your casting could be ok i`m just making you aware of a possible issue.

Excellent tips! And Thank You!
My only worry with tapping the holes in the rear diff case are accessing the bosses from the top.
I found a YouTube video showing how they did it but can’t find it again.
It showed using a Milwaukee cordless ratchet wrench to run the tap in, which I have one, and will go up to 55 ft lbs so should help with tapping.
I use thread cutting oil for drilling and tapping holes rather than WD40. I’ve drilled and tapped lots of holes in my day so no fears there.
I’ve also threaded rifle barrels for flash suppressors where getting threads straight and true are super critical.

Sponsored

 

[Duke56]

@Rock Krawler Suspension, my rear spring seats are different than the ones in the instructions and from what i see others here have. Are there two different styles? The ones in the instructions that are different than mine look to support and hold the bottom of the rear springs better.

Who did you buy your kit from?

 

[MarineHawk]

@Rock Krawler Suspension, my rear spring seats are different than the ones in the instructions and from what i see others here have. Are there two different styles? The ones in the instructions that are different than mine look to support and hold the bottom of the rear springs better.

This is what mine look like. Can you post pics of yours?

 

[RH 67]

Who did you buy your kit from?

RCO but the parts where shipped direct from RK.

 

[RH 67]

Excellent tips! And Thank You!
My only worry with tapping the holes in the rear diff case are accessing the bosses from the top.
I found a YouTube video showing how they did it but can’t find it again.
It showed using a Milwaukee cordless ratchet wrench to run the tap in, which I have one, and will go up to 55 ft lbs so should help with tapping.
I use thread cutting oil for drilling and tapping holes rather than WD40. I’ve drilled and tapped lots of holes in my day so no fears there.
I’ve also threaded rifle barrels for flash suppressors where getting threads straight and true are super critical.

To get to the holes you need to remove the rear brake calipers otherwise there is too much tension on the brake lines, this will allow you room to get a drill in there and it makes it easier to mount the springs.

Also remove the spare.

 

[Relentless_Eric]

RK recommends 3 bump stop spacers up front.

Maybe I overlooked that but the kit came with bolts for 1, 2, or 3 spacers and with the shock length I have 2 were determined to be the ticket to get the most use of shock travel. Otherwise, i'm unnecessarily killing 1" of up travel which I find is important in my terrain. I still have the extra spacer and longer bolts but would prefer to not add it if possible.

 

[RH 67]

Maybe I overlooked that but the kit came with bolts for 1, 2, or 3 spacers and with the shock length I have 2 were determined to be the ticket to get the most use of shock travel. Otherwise, i'm unnecessarily killing 1" of up travel which I find is important in my terrain. I still have the extra spacer and longer bolts but would prefer to not add it if possible.

Spring length determines your travel and the bump stops set correctly allow the springs to work within their design limits. One more spacer would probably eliminate the binding of your front springs.

 

[RH 67]

This is what mine look like. Can you post pics of yours?

These are what i have. They are much smaller in dia. Compressed the second winding of the spring would bypass the seat, on yours the spring would make contact with the seat. What i have is very small and seeing what others have has me concerned, lol.

 

[RH 67]

Quick question for anyone who received a no limits version. I received my sway bar links and noticed the bodies were different lengths, maybe a quarter to half an inch, is that normal? I’m not sure what to make of it as I can adjust them to the appropriate length of 11 inches as recommended, it may just be an odd mix of versions of the part. Should I be concerned with strength of the links/jam threading? I plan on starting this install soon, I’ll probably run with it for now and ask RK next week.

Both of mine have 7" bodies.

 

[RH 67]

This photo from Relentless_Eric shows the bottom spring winding seated in the seat, mine has a small lip. My seat dia. is also that of the first spring winding much smaller than the spring seat in the photo.

 

[MarineHawk]

Here's a better pic of mine:

 

[RH 67]

Here's a better pic of mine:

Thanks. Yeah, mine are way different. Yours are bigger and have that center plug which mine does not have. I`m wondering what i have.

 

[Iron Wolfpack]

Can someone tell me if this is how your front coils look sitting on flat ground. I’m surprised that the top section of the coil is compressed like this. Same on both sides. I didn’t do the install myself but I measured the sway bar links and they were set to 11 inches as the instructions show.

 

[wch_Chip]

Can someone tell me if this is how your front coils look sitting on flat ground. I’m surprised that the top section of the coil is compressed like this. Same on both sides. I didn’t do the install myself but I measured the sway bar links and they were set to 11 inches as the instructions show.

Completely normal.

 

[Iron Wolfpack]

Completely normal.

Ok thanks for the quick reply! Just wanted to make sure before I got my wrenches out and started messing stuff up.

Sponsored