Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System

[Duke56]

If we are supposed to use Red Loctite on the jam nuts then how are we supposed to get an alignment afterwards?
That doesn’t make adjusting too easy.
That mechanic might be inventing some new curse words I would think.
My front control arms showed up today and I was setting them to the recommended start lengths when that though crossed my mind.
Could we use NO Loctite until we get an alignment or just Blue until then?
Once at the shop getting the alignment done ask the mechanic to use the red?

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[RH 67]

If we are supposed to use Red Loctite on the jam nuts then how are we supposed to get an alignment afterwards?
That doesn’t make adjusting too easy.
That mechanic might be inventing some new curse words I would think.
My front control arms showed up today and I was setting them to the recommended start lengths when that though crossed my mind.
Could we use NO Loctite until we get an alignment or just Blue until then?
Once at the shop getting the alignment done ask the mechanic to use the red?

The specs. given by RK for "me" were right on all i did was check toe and it was good also. Maybe i got lucky????? I took the chance and red Loctited everything in the beginning.

 

[Duke56]

Have you taken yours in and had the alignment checked or just driving as you installed it and “it feels OK”?
I guess the worst would be to let the mechanic know he might have to get out the propane torch to break em loose if needed.
I’d be afraid of destroying the teflon bushing inside if not careful to apply heat to just the jam nut

 

[RH 67]

Have you taken yours in and had the alignment checked or just driving as you installed it and “it feels OK”?
I guess the worst would be to let the mechanic know he might have to get out the propane torch to break em loose if needed.
I’d be afraid of destroying the teflon bushing inside if not careful to apply heat to just the jam nut

I checked castor and toe myself, very easy.

 

[RH 67]

These are what i have. They are much smaller in dia. Compressed the second winding of the spring would bypass the seat, on yours the spring would make contact with the seat. What i have is very small and seeing what others have has me concerned, lol.

RK is sending me the correct rear spring seats, nice but not looking forward to dropping the rear axle again.

 

[Texops]

RK is sending me the correct rear spring seats, nice but not looking forward to dropping the rear axle again.

sorry to hear but at least they are making it right

 

[RH 67]

sorry to hear but at least they are making it right

True, Jeremy has been very helpful.

 

[Duke56]

I checked castor and toe myself, very easy.

Good to know. And yes I agree it isn’t rocket science and pretty straight forward for Toe and Caster.
I also checked toe when I was having the “wandering” issue. Turned out to be tire pressure at 42 psi with OEM MT’s.
So, OK, I’m getting out the Red Loctite.........

 

[Relentless_Eric]

When I installed my kit I didn't loctite any jam nuts for the reason of alignment as well. Took it for an aligment a couple days later. It was all pretty much to spec except the front track bar/drag link. Now that I got it out of the way I'm going to put the truck up on my lift again and break loose all the jam nuts, loctite them, and retorque them (didn't have a crows foot to use my torque wrench initially either, just used a BF crescent wrench). Might be a little more work this way but I dont mind.

 

[Duke56]

I like the idea of setting the dimensions without Loctite, installing, set to torque after install, and having shop check it right away. Then back the jam nut off and apply Loctite and final retorque.

I set the front control arms to length already and one thing I did which varies from instructions was point the Zirk fitting down on the lower control arms for 2 reasons.
1. It makes it easier to grease the Hemi joint.
2. I won’t have to cut out the bracket.
Yeah I know it places that fitting in harms way somewhat but it is still even with the bottom of the joint surface.
If it gets taken out by a rock then I would have to remove it with an EZ out and replace it or plug the hole.
Maybe I should just remove it now and replace it with a set screw that will flush with the joint surface.
Just need to remember to put Zirk back in to grease when greasing.
Now if I could just get the rest of the kit I could make an appointment with Gearheads Rent A Bay and get on with the install.

 

[wch_Chip]

For you coilovers folks. http://rockkrawler.com/3-inch-pro-x-no-limits-coil-over-system/

 

[Relentless_Eric]

For you coilovers folks. http://rockkrawler.com/3-inch-pro-x-no-limits-coil-over-system/

Right after I install my regular Pro-X no limits kit. :sigh: Would have went coilovers for sure had I known. Was already planning that upgrade from another company but now at least I can stay RK all around

 

[wch_Chip]

Right after I install my regular Pro-X no limits kit. :sigh: Would have went coilovers for sure had I known. Was already planning that upgrade from another company but now at least I can stay RK all around

Yeah I understand as I'm in the same boat. I suppose I can always upgrade just the different parts and funds allow.

 

[RH 67]

I like the idea of setting the dimensions without Loctite, installing, set to torque after install, and having shop check it right away. Then back the jam nut off and apply Loctite and final retorque.

I set the front control arms to length already and one thing I did which varies from instructions was point the Zirk fitting down on the lower control arms for 2 reasons.
1. It makes it easier to grease the Hemi joint.
2. I won’t have to cut out the bracket.
Yeah I know it places that fitting in harms way somewhat but it is still even with the bottom of the joint surface.
If it gets taken out by a rock then I would have to remove it with an EZ out and replace it or plug the hole.
Maybe I should just remove it now and replace it with a set screw that will flush with the joint surface.
Just need to remember to put Zirk back in to grease when greasing.
Now if I could just get the rest of the kit I could make an appointment with Gearheads Rent A Bay and get on with the install.

A couple of things i should mention.

The rear lower control arms will need to come off the truck there is not enough room to back the jam nut enough to get Loctite on the treads, the joint needs to be backed out four full turns in order to get enough treads exposed for the Loctite, do not get Loctite on the treads that go into the control arm just in the area where the jam nut will rest, then tread the joint back in four full turns. Personally i would tighten all jam nuts on the bench and not on the truck, it will mean more work but i feel it`s the right way.

If you do not cut out the bracket for the front LCA it could be possible for the jam nut to make contact with the uncut bracket at full droop.

 

[RH 67]

Right after I install my regular Pro-X no limits kit. :sigh: Would have went coilovers for sure had I known. Was already planning that upgrade from another company but now at least I can stay RK all around

I feel you. Hopefully the coilovers and mounting bracket won`t cost too much.

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