Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System

[human29]

The sway bar links should be 13" hole to hole.

Yes that is what I have 13" but no where near long enough.

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[RH 67]

Yes that is what I have 13" but no where near long enough.

Something is not right. Need some photos.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Yes that is what I have 13" but no where near long enough.

Let's kick it back and cover basics.

Tire size, brand, model and pressure?

Are you experiencing wandering or body roll?

I have no experience with Falcon shocks in a JT so I can't even begin to speak to their valve profile and how suitable they might be for the application. Maybe somebody else here has tried that combo and can share their knowledge.

13" Has been the length we have used since day 1 on the 3" X Factor and Pro X kits rear sway bar links to provide appropriate torsional effect of the sway bar. It has been effective at reducing body roll and provides correct handling.



You mentioned having a steering issue before the kit was installed, what was done to fix that wander or is it possible we are chasing an issue with the stock components that remain in the Jeep?

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

@human29

Here's a link to a video from one of our retailers in NC who filmed the install of the JT Pro X kit and covered a lot of the tuning aspects of the system. It's a bit comical but there is a ton of information in this video.

 

[MarineHawk]

Castor should be a little more on the pass. side to compensate for the crown of the road.

Mine is aligned as indicated below and drives like a dream – way better than stock.

I’m no alignment guru. I welcome any comments from Rock Krawler or anyone else as to whether those alignment specs are good to go.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Mine is aligned as indicated below and drives like a dream – way better than stock.

I’m no alignment guru. I welcome any comments from Rock Krawler or anyone else as to whether those alignment specs are good to go.

If it drives right, and you're happy with it, then it's good to go. I, personally would not trust that sheet as they did some massive camber adjustments and we all know camber isn't really adjustable with solid axles which indicates that the alignment heads that mount to the wheels were not on correctly and were moved mid-alignment....

 

[RH 67]

@human29

Here's a link to a video from one of our retailers in NC who filmed the install of the JT Pro X kit and covered a lot of the tuning aspects of the system. It's a bit comical but there is a ton of information in this video.

Good video. I measured the control arms the same way. Install time was the same as it took me i do not see how it could be done quicker if done right.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Good video. I measured the control arms the same way. Install time was the same as it took me i do not see how it could be done quicker if done right.

If you do a lot of them, you find places to save time. The last one I did, I partnered up with one of our welders. We started at about 7pm and We were driving home at 12:30am, we stopped to eat dinner and did the full alignment. Actual wrench time was around 9 hours total. But that's 2 guys, that are very familiar with the kit, no BS'ing around, yada yada yada...

 

[human29]

Something is not right. Need some photos.

 

[human29]

Let's kick it back and cover basics.

Tire size, brand, model and pressure?

Are you experiencing wandering or body roll?

I have no experience with Falcon shocks in a JT so I can't even begin to speak to their valve profile and how suitable they might be for the application. Maybe somebody else here has tried that combo and can share their knowledge.

13" Has been the length we have used since day 1 on the 3" X Factor and Pro X kits rear sway bar links to provide appropriate torsional effect of the sway bar. It has been effective at reducing body roll and provides correct handling.



You mentioned having a steering issue before the kit was installed, what was done to fix that wander or is it possible we are chasing an issue with the stock components that remain in the Jeep?

37/12.50R17 Pro Comp XTREME MT2 been playing around with pressures but between 28 and 30 seems to be the sweet spot.

The Wondering I think is my steering box with not enough gain I will work on that. installing the lift help that issue at least 50%. What I am seeing now is what seems like excessive body roll causing what seems like rear steer. My understanding the sway bar should be parallel or down 3 deg for best performance? It is up about 3".

 

[RH 67]

If you do a lot of them, you find places to save time. The last one I did, I partnered up with one of our welders. We started at about 7pm and We were driving home at 12:30am, we stopped to eat dinner and did the full alignment. Actual wrench time was around 9 hours total. But that's 2 guys, that are very familiar with the kit, no BS'ing around, yada yada yada...

Yeah... if i had to do it again it would go a lot quicker. Before i decided to do it myself, i contacted DCD Customs, Genright and Redlands Off Road and they all said about 15hrs. so when i finished from start to finish in 16hrs doing it alone i felt pretty good.

 

[Duke56]

My steering was wicked scary poop when I first brought it home from the dealership. Found this forum and researched YouTube. Checked tire pressure. It was at 42psi on OE MT’s. I lowered it to 30. No more wandering but mileage is probably suffering. I checked toe and it was at 1/4 which is over spec but wouldn’t think it would cause wandering and knowing this kit is getting installed decided to wait until final alignment to get it all dialed in. I also checked caster with a digital angle finder and found it to be 5.7 driver, 6.3 passenger. I believe spec is 5 to 6 degrees with a .5 split. My split is .6. Close enough? And once again, this will all get redone once the kit is installed.

 

[RH 67]

Nothing out of the ordinary. By the way your truck looks good love that color.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

37/12.50R17 Pro Comp XTREME MT2 been playing around with pressures but between 28 and 30 seems to be the sweet spot.

The Wondering I think is my steering box with not enough gain I will work on that. installing the lift help that issue at least 50%. What I am seeing now is what seems like excessive body roll causing what seems like rear steer. My understanding the sway bar should be parallel or down 3 deg for best performance? It is up about 3".

Tire pressure sounds ok, but looking at the debris on the rear tire in that photo, it seems that your pressure is still high as the outer edges are much cleaner than the center indicating it is not making full contact. A true chalk test would be the most accurate answer.

Where the swaybar "should be" is widely debated. Especially in an axle mounted rear sway bar application. Ground clearance is a critical factor in this configuration. The difference we found, while testing, in torsional effect was less than 2% by running links that are 15" vs the links that come in the kit at 13". At 15" in length on a 3" kit, the rear sway bar is low and vulnerable offroad. 2% on a 1/2" wire is roughly a couple pounds of spring rate. All of this to say, this is not the problem in your setup but it's your Jeep, you are more than welcome to set it up any way you wish.

 

[Duke56]

If you do a lot of them, you find places to save time. The last one I did, I partnered up with one of our welders. We started at about 7pm and We were driving home at 12:30am, we stopped to eat dinner and did the full alignment. Actual wrench time was around 9 hours total. But that's 2 guys, that are very familiar with the kit, no BS'ing around, yada yada yada...

Uh oh. I contacted a local shop near me and they say they are familiar with the Rock Krawler lifts and they’re willing to let me work with them and a few of their mechanics. They knew about having to notch the brackets for the front lower control arms and drilling the holes for the bump stops. Said they could have me and 3 of them wrenching and be on the road in 3-4 hours. Sounds doable to me since I have all the arms measured but not fully torqued or Loctited yet. We’ll check torques after install and I’ll save the Loctite and matchmarking for final alignment. I’ve taken the time to label all the arms as to where they go and orientation. (Axle/Frame end. Up/Down etc.). I also have the rear axle truss mounted and torqued. I have 2 cordless and 1 pneumatic impact gun, all required sockets and wrenches ready to go plus their tools so I imagine the whole process should be fairly easy. I may just mount the rear bump stops the night before I go to the shop just to shave more time off.
Now if I could just find my 6ft pipe full of whoopass so we can hit 250ft lbs......

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