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Rubicon for overlanding/Rubicon trail, request thoughts!

Zybane

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I'm a prior JK Unlimited Rubicon owner and I just got rid of my RAM Power Wagon. I was honestly not that impressed with the Power Wagon, it was way too heavy and large for a lot of stuff.

I'm seriously thinking about purchasing a Rubicon Diesel with the following specs:

GLADIATOR RUBICON 4X4
3.0L V6 Turbo Diesel Engine
Sarge Green Clear Coat (black wheel flares)
Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats Black/Dark Saddle
Advanced Safety Group
Auxiliary Switch Group
Cold Weather Group
Safety Group
Mopar Doors Off Mirror Kit
LED Lighting Group
Steel Front Bumper
Trail Rail Management System
Integrated Off-Road Camera
Trailer Tow Package
Body Color 3-Piece Hard Top
Gorilla glass windshield

My project is for a modified, enclosed overlanding rig that is capable enough to do the Rubicon trail without serious butt clenching. I also do quite a bit of highway driving for overlanding/visiting family, so would prefer a suspension/steering that isn't wobbly all over the road. I have two dogs and I like to camp inside the vehicle. Roof top tents are not an option or anything I desire. I don't do any heavy mud or deep water stuff.

My plan is to get an ARE or similar bed cap (color matched in Sarge Green), remove the rear seats, cut out the rear bulkhead of the truck and glass area of the rear hard-top. Then use a rubber accordion style connection to weather seal the cabin and bed cap together. These rubber accordion bellows are what the semi industry uses. From some videos I've seen, even under full sway bar disconnected ramp flex, the bed only moves up to 1/8th of an inch relative twist to the cabin. Pretty stiff frame.

I'd install some insulation and probably carpet bed liner. I plan on installing a small, split A/C unit like truckers use, and a small RV type fan in the top of the bed cap. The bed cap will also have sliding windows for ventilation. I'll install a custom inverter, a small bank of lithium batteries (probably under the bed platform, where the rear seats used to be.) The inverter/charger will also be hooked up to the alternator to charge the batteries from the diesel engine. I also plan to do some amount of solar. A roof rack of some kind that covers the bed cap and the rear cabin cover of the Gladiator, which will now be permanently fixed. It will stop short of the front roof panels, as I still will want to take those off sometimes.

I'll have a small fridge/freezer and some built-in storage. I do all the work myself. Anyway, on to the vehicle build thoughts. I have a budget of about $20K-30K. These are my initial thoughts:

1. 17"x8.5" Hutchinson Rock Monster DOT approved Beadlocks.
2. 37" Nitto Ridge Grappler Tires. I've used these a lot before and really like their quietness/comfort with still good off-road capability. Any thoughts on the Ridge Grapplers vs the competition? I understand a 37" can fit the stock spare location with some finagling and/or modification of the rear sway bar?
3. Looking for a 2.5-3.5 inch lift. Nothing crazy. Was thinking AEV or Clayton. Who does the best now for a diesel Gladiator for off-road yet keep decent highway dynamics?
4. Artec industries full aluminum skid plates.
5. Axle/diff armor.
6. Rhinoline black wheel flares.
7. Warn ZEON 12-S PLATINUM WINCH. Will this fit steel Rubicon bumper? How good is the OEM Steel bumper considered? I understand you can take off the end caps. Is removing the end caps required with 37" tires?
8. Open to thoughts on the best rock rails/body protection.

Questions:
1. Wheel well liners a good idea?
2. Is there anything on the market to increase small diesel fuel tank size? Secondary tank?
3. I've already got a pull pal, hi-lift, air-compressor and Max traxx. I just need to find a way to store/mount them. Anyone have thoughts on rear hitch gear carrier for stuff like that and/or a bicycle?
4. What's the thoughts on the OEM rear bumper? I have all the tech packages so don't want to lose any OEM functionality.
5. Any thoughts on Green Diesel Engineering vs Banks Derringer tune? Are those too risky on OEM axles?
6. Any smart way to rip out the carpet and keep sound deadening? Are there any Vinyl kits? Carpet in a Jeep is idiotic, no idea why they put that crap in there.
7. Are the stock Rubicon brakes up to the task?
8. Any smart steering upgrades for a build like mine?
9. Any thoughts on Sunrider front for hardtop vs traditional hard-top panels? I'd imagine the Sunrider top lets in a lot more noise.
10. Half doors with uppers too much of a security risk and noise issue I'd imagine?
11. Something I'm forgetting missing? I'm sure.

I look forward to your guys thoughts on how you would kit out this build. I've got a decent budget and would like this truck to be pretty bad ass for overlanding and decent rock crawling.
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AmishMike

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Overlanding and the Rubicon Trail are two very different things.
I have learned that the JT is great at either but not easily both. With enough $$ anything is possible though. As much as I would love the torque of the diesel, the added weight can be limiting when rock crawling.
That being said, most of us try to trim weight for rock crawling, not adding amenities for camping. Like the hitch mounted anything will get wiped out on a trail.
 
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Zybane

Zybane

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So you are basically saying a JTR that can do the Rubicon is going to suck on the highway and if good on the highway, is going to suck on the Rubicon?

One thing I hated about my JKRU was the steering was all over the highway and needed constant small steering corrections which gold olllldddd on highway drives.

So that is definitely giving me pause. I guess there really is no "do everything at least decent" vehicle. I have a Rivian R1S on order that would be great for highway and light trails but of course not the Rubicon trail.

So there is no real high end suspension setup given enough $$ to make the JTR do what I want?
 

AXISJT

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You can build a decent balance of both again its money. With a clayton lift and upgraded steering, you should have no steering issues. I know you said you don't tent camp and like to be inside the truck but have you thought at all about something like a GFC camper or similar? it doesn't let you access the cab but the bed and tent are all connected and add a convenient space without having to do major major modifications as you mentioned.

1. Wheel well liners a good idea?
yes
2. Is there anything on the market to increase small diesel fuel tank size? Secondary tank?
this I'm not sure of but even with the small tank i get 450 mile min
3. I've already got a pull pal, hi-lift, air-compressor and Max traxx. I just need to find a way to store/mount them. Anyone have thoughts on rear hitch gear carrier for stuff like that and/or a bicycle?
with the GFC camper or similar that i mentioned this al mounts easy to the side doors
4. What's the thoughts on the OEM rear bumper? I have all the tech packages so don't want to lose any OEM functionality.
the OEM steel bumper is nice the biggest reason to replace it is more clearance and looks there are many that can include all the sensors and what not
5. Any thoughts on Green Diesel Engineering vs Banks Derringer tune? Are those too risky on OEM axles?
thius i don't know
6. Any smart way to rip out the carpet and keep sound deadening? Are there any Vinyl kits? Carpet
in a Jeep is idiotic, no idea why they put that crap in there.
as mentioned above the armorlite flooring is the way to go
7. Are the stock Rubicon brakes up to the task?
they will be ok for a while but id upgrade when you can
8. Any smart steering upgrades for a build like mine? yes synergy or doetsch off road are great currie as well
9. Any thoughts on Sunrider front for hardtop vs traditional hard-top panels? I'd imagine the Sunrider top lets in a lot more noise.
i don't have this but it is extremely popular
10. Half doors with uppers too much of a security risk and noise issue I'd imagine? they are ass expensive ill deal with rolling the window down
11. Something I'm forgetting missing? I'm sure.
 

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Maximus Gladius

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The wondering thing was fixed on my 2021 JTR by simply getting under the front and rear suspension and retorquing all the nuts and bolts. If I had tightened 10 nuts and bolts to spec, 1 or 2 were good from the factory.

I might have missed it from your wish list (sorry if I did) but were you re-gearing with those 37’s and adding weight? Maybe upgrade to larger Dana’s? Reach out to The Story Till Now dude up here in Canada who’s got a YouTube channel that explores the BC Rockies and trails in his gladiator and not afraid to carve his own path. He may have some good advice.
 

Cernst

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The short bed on the Gladiator is a huge disapointment to anyone, and especially any couple, of normal length who wants to sleep in it. I know this isn’t what you want to hear, but if you’re deadset on sleeping inside the vehicle then I’d consider something more of an SUV. I’ve got an 80 series Land Cruiser that I’ve taken the back seats out of to make a great sleeping platform for two adults and two medium size dogs. I’d drive it from Georgia to Cali and feel comfortable running the Rubicon with it…But if a Gladiator’s what you want and you don’t mind the time and expense of fabrication, I’ll gladly follow your build!
 
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AmishMike

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1. Good for you
2. Run them myself!
3. Clayton does make a great kit
4. aluminum does dissipate heat and is lighter but will it hold up to the added weight of the diesel and full rig? O.E. plates on a Rubicon can sure take a beating already, maybe just subsidize them. Also, will limit the extra fuel tank options-they are out there.
5. Control arm skids! I like diff covers instead of skids because they don't change the clearance.
6. If you are going wider tires, good idea.
7. I plated and modified my plastic bumper for a VR EVO 12 saves weight and $
8. OE rails are strong but not a lot of coverage.

For sound etc. Hot Heads headliners are great!

Decide what matters most and build that direction. When you get to a close decision between 2 items choose the one that also leans towards your secondary goal.
 
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Zybane

Zybane

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What I'm worried about most is if my build works be close to needing new gears/and or axles.

I'm usually not punishing on equipment but sometimes you have no choice on tougher trails.

Especially with the diesel torque, locked up axles, 37s and the extra weight I'd have.
 

OngsterA

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What I'm worried about most is if my build works be close to needing new gears/and or axles.

I'm usually not punishing on equipment but sometimes you have no choice on tougher trails.

Especially with the diesel torque, locked up axles, 37s and the extra weight I'd have.
You should be fine on 37s and the diesel torque on current gearing. It will be a problem only on the steepest low grip high clearance crawls, which you probably won’t be doing anyway, knowing the added weight with all the stuff you’re adding. For overlanding, no problem.
 

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jnack

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My rig is basically built to do what you're talking about -- an overlanding rig that can still keep up with some of more technical trails like the rubicon. I'm not going the trails that guys with dana 60s and 42" tires and a bobbed bed but i'm doing more than 99% of Tacoma owners (speaking as a former Tacoma owner) -- you can find my rig on instagram my handle there is jtrdiesel


1. Wheel well liners a good idea? not needed on rubicon unless going > 37"
2. Is there anything on the market to increase small diesel fuel tank size? Secondary tank? longrange america is working on it, not out. i use jerry can at the moment
3. I've already got a pull pal, hi-lift, air-compressor and Max traxx. I just need to find a way to store/mount them. Anyone have thoughts on rear hitch gear carrier for stuff like that and/or a bicycle? -- you don't want to mount anything on rear hitch if you plan to run anything marginally technical. that stuff will get wrecked on the trail
4. What's the thoughts on the OEM rear bumper? I have all the tech packages so don't want to lose any OEM functionality. it does the job, no need to upgrade from rubicon bumper unless you need a rear swing arm.
5. Any thoughts on Green Diesel Engineering vs Banks Derringer tune? Are those too risky on OEM axles? can't comment
6. Any smart way to rip out the carpet and keep sound deadening? Are there any Vinyl kits? Carpet in a Jeep is idiotic, no idea why they put that crap in there. can't comment
7. Are the stock Rubicon brakes up to the task? yes, though with anything be smart ie -- i went with KM3 for tires since they're rated highly but significantly lighter than other similar sized tires aka less rolling mass
8. Any smart steering upgrades for a build like mine? -- steering stabilizer and steersmarts sector shaft brace. also i found that control arm drop brackets significantly improved road manors and the lost ground clearance hasn't been an issue as I have clayton control arms which are super beefy and can hold up to the abuse
9. Any thoughts on Sunrider front for hardtop vs traditional hard-top panels? I'd imagine the Sunrider top lets in a lot more noise. -- just got sunrider and love it, way more useful though road noise is slighyty worse -- i have hot head headliner with sound deadening in the rear so that sort of balances it out a bit
10. Half doors with uppers too much of a security risk and noise issue I'd imagine? -- not worth it IMO
11. Something I'm forgetting missing? I'm sure.

for armor i have been very satisfied with metalcloak. you 100% need Rusty's LCA skid -- from my experience wheeling these see the most hits aka are most useful.
 

CerOf

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As said above, with diesel, re-gearing isn’t totally needed with 37s. Besides, for off-road, you have 4:1. You’ll never be lacking.
Stock brakes are fine. They are massive!! compared to my WJ that also had a 6k tow rating. If memory serves, our old 2014 suburban has smaller brakes.
 

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