jn2275
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Justin
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2022
- Threads
- 4
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- 119
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- 264
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Gobi Mojave
- Thread starter
- #1
My goal was to come up with a way to mount my Scepter Military Fuel Cans (MFC) and Military Water Cans (MWC) securely into the bed of my Gladiator. I did not want to drill any holes into the bed so I used the Mopar Trail Rails and the mostly unused space above the wheel wells. Most of the pieces were purchased from Amazon and links are below. The rest of the hardware I picked up from Ace Hardware. These mounts fit both the MFC and MWC perfectly with enough room for the plastic to expand in the heat like they tend to do. I chose to mount the MFC's in the bed like this on the drivers side, to enable the use of a electric fuel transfer pump directly into the Gladiators fuel cap. I have one MWC mounted on the passenger side.
I started with these Racewell Mounts. I drilled out the two upper holes to fit the 3/8" mounting screws. I replaced the lower two screws that attach the side braces to the top and bottom ring with longer screws to allow installation of the rubber feet. The thread pitch of the welded in nuts for the side braces is M6-1.0. If using one rubber bumper, I used a 20mm screw and for the two bumpers (more about that below) I used a 45mm screw. I placed a fender washer on each side of the rubber bumper that made contact with the trail rail or fuel can mount to help spread out the load or else the rubber was being too easily deformed when the screws were tightened down to the Trail Rails. Additionally I used four extra fender washers as spacers between the double rubber feet for the rear mount.
T Slot Nuts for the Mopar Trail Rail. I recommend putting something behind them, like 90 degree needle nose pliers or a large Allen key, when your first tightening the screws because the nuts tend to fall back at an angle into the Trail Rail when they're loose.
These 3/8-16 x 1-1/2" Button Head Socket Cap Screws to attach the mount to the T Slot nuts.
These Rubber Feet. I used these for three purposes. One was to space the fuel can mount away from the Trail Rail enough to clear the mounts for my Alu-Cab and second to allow the fuel can mount to be attached as far forward in the bed as possible. If you look closely in the one picture above, the bed side curves inward and these rubber bumpers allowed me to mount the fuel cans almost 2 inches further forward. At first I didn't attach any rubber feet to the bottom, but I found out that the fuel can mount flexed quiet a bit when a full fuel can was inserted. I didn't believe it would survive long. The lower rubber feet help counteract the weight pushing down and push into the bed side. If your going to install them like I did in the first picture you will need four feet for the front fuel can mount and five for the rear. This is due to the bed side curving out past the wheel well as you can see in the one picture. For the upper two mounts I drilled out the holes in the rubber feet to 3/8" to fit the mounting screws going into the Trail Rail.
I started with these Racewell Mounts. I drilled out the two upper holes to fit the 3/8" mounting screws. I replaced the lower two screws that attach the side braces to the top and bottom ring with longer screws to allow installation of the rubber feet. The thread pitch of the welded in nuts for the side braces is M6-1.0. If using one rubber bumper, I used a 20mm screw and for the two bumpers (more about that below) I used a 45mm screw. I placed a fender washer on each side of the rubber bumper that made contact with the trail rail or fuel can mount to help spread out the load or else the rubber was being too easily deformed when the screws were tightened down to the Trail Rails. Additionally I used four extra fender washers as spacers between the double rubber feet for the rear mount.
T Slot Nuts for the Mopar Trail Rail. I recommend putting something behind them, like 90 degree needle nose pliers or a large Allen key, when your first tightening the screws because the nuts tend to fall back at an angle into the Trail Rail when they're loose.
These 3/8-16 x 1-1/2" Button Head Socket Cap Screws to attach the mount to the T Slot nuts.
These Rubber Feet. I used these for three purposes. One was to space the fuel can mount away from the Trail Rail enough to clear the mounts for my Alu-Cab and second to allow the fuel can mount to be attached as far forward in the bed as possible. If you look closely in the one picture above, the bed side curves inward and these rubber bumpers allowed me to mount the fuel cans almost 2 inches further forward. At first I didn't attach any rubber feet to the bottom, but I found out that the fuel can mount flexed quiet a bit when a full fuel can was inserted. I didn't believe it would survive long. The lower rubber feet help counteract the weight pushing down and push into the bed side. If your going to install them like I did in the first picture you will need four feet for the front fuel can mount and five for the rear. This is due to the bed side curving out past the wheel well as you can see in the one picture. For the upper two mounts I drilled out the holes in the rubber feet to 3/8" to fit the mounting screws going into the Trail Rail.
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