I have my stock Overland springs somewhere. Iāll take a pic of them and the model numbers next time I find them. Iām pretty sure I know where they areā¦ Mine is a 20ā loaded hard top automatic with tow package so youād think theyād be the highest spring rate available on an Overland.
I donāt have the measurements, by my stock overland springs are below. Iām not sure why some springs are AB and some AC.
Do you or does anyone have the torque specs handy for the shocks and lower sway bar end links? Iām doing this again tomorrow and trying not to forget anything.OK, here's what I did-
I carried my tools to the garage. I wasn't sure what to expect but figured almost all metric except for the 7/8" socket to remove the wheels. I took two of my 3 floor jacks to the garage - that's a 200' haul across gravel up to the garage from my shop. So two trips with a jack on the 2-wheel dolly each time. Then I carried two of my larger jack stands to the garage (another trip, 200')
Next I removed the drawer from my tool box that has most of my metric wrenches and took that to the garage, then I took out a section of my socket storage from the top of my box that has the most common size metric half-inch drive sockets and carried that up. Brought up my mechanics seat and cordless Milwaukee impact.
Of all of that stuff, I used only two wrenches and I think 4 different sockets, an impact swivel and a couple of short extensions.
One end at a time - front first. I loosened the lug nuts - breaker bar and socket.
I used two jacks, one under the pumpkin and a smaller one under the right lower control arm bracket on the axle. I figured the pumpkin being off-center wouldn't raise the axle level or give me the control I wanted.
Truck up, set stands under frame, let it down onto the stands and let the axle droop a bit more, but jacks still under axle.
Removed tires.
Using impact and socket, removed shocks.
If I was doing it again, I'd plan better what to remove on each side with the tires turned either left or right. You do need to turn the wheels to get into some spots easier. With them left you can remove certain things on either side, then turn them right and remove other stuff.
I saw I'd need to remove the brake hose brackets from the lower control arms so did that.
Sway bar links disconnected at the axle end, didn't touch the upper end of the links.
I did not even touch the control arms themselves, left them fully in place.
I removed the bolt for the axle end of the track bar - right side near the bracket for the lower end of the right sway bar link.
For the FAD wiring, I found that if I removed one of the wire straps that is secured to the axle that the wire would pivot up and give me plenty of slack to lower the axle enough to remove and replace the springs. So I did not disconnect the FAD wire - in one of the pics (the worst one, sorry) I show where I removed the wire strap from its hole in the axle bracket - carefully with needle nose pliers, pushed it out of the hole. It's barbed in the hole so if you push the barbs flat toward the bracket on the back side, it can be manipulated out and re-used without damage.
The Overland springs came out pretty easy, the Rubicon springs going in were a bit stiffer and a bit taller so I sort of pulled down on the axle a bit while putting the spring in place on each side. Not a lot, didn't take that much really.
I then reversed the process and put it all back together -
As with ANY steering or suspension part that involves bushings, do NOT tighten things until the truck is on the ground or you at least have the weight of the truck on the axle. Never tighten anything with a bushing with the axle or wheels dangling, hanging down! You pre-load the bushings which will lead to failure later, if not sooner. Always do final tightening with truck weight on the parts it normally rests on. You can jack the axle back up until it starts to raise the truck off the stands, but best on the floor.
Next to the back end. This was much easier. No messing turning wheels back and forth to get an impact in place or reach with a socket, etc. Things were in plain sight.
Again, axle end of track bar, axle end of sway bar links, and shocks.
To get clearance to remove the springs the brake hoses BARELY made it. They were maxed out. But it wasn't a lift so I didn't need to unbolt the calipers and raise them to get hose slack.
To get the rear axle down far enough to remove the springs, I found a piece of pipe that fit up into the middle of the rear axle snubbers/stops, the pipe length was so that when I put the pipe up inside, it just barely stuck out the bottom of the rubber stops. I used a bottle jack on the axle "shelf" where the snubbers or stops would hit and jacked up against the pipe in the rubber stop and pushed the axle down JUST enough to get springs out. Careful so as to not stress the rubber brake hoses to the calipers.
The worst part was holding the top spring pads up in place with the "nipple" up in the hole and clock the springs so the end of the coil was in the proper place against the stop on the top spring pad. That almost took 4 hands. If doing it again I'd clean up those pads really good and use 3M 008001 super weatherstrip adhesive to hold the pads in place up there!
I was going to take pics of each step and each part I took loose, etc. but it got hot and I just didn't take the time. (shop is air conditioned, garage is not)
These are the tools I carried to the garage - the ones in the middle are the only ones I used out of the drawer and out of that section of sockets. Geesh, could have carried those up in my pocket!
Yeah, this is all I really needed for tools - couple of wrenches, 4 sockets, swivel and extensions and breaker bar (torque wrenches I carried up later)
Two jacks, two stands, broken creeper and a seat -
FAD wire showing where I removed a clip and the lower one that swiveled up a bit to give me plenty of slack without disconnecting -
Bugs the heck outta me that there's this much rust on the suspension parts already!
I keep my sockets on rails mounted on "Masonite" hardboard so I can easily lift sections out to take closer to the work. The tool box itself is a mess, dates back to about 1975. It's too heavy even for two men to lift, when I moved I had to use my engine hoist to set it into the back of my truck to get it to my shop from the garage - that's just the TOP section.
The empty spot is where the sockets I carried to the garage to do the spring swap belongs -
(I have a 3/4" drive socket set, and some larger and specialty sockets in a drawer. Too many to fit here)
Thank you!This is what I have in a binder in my shop. Can't recall where I got it.....
Btw, itās not just a max tow thing, Overlands apparently have the longest rear coil springs. When I compared them to the Rubicon coils, they are about an inch shorter. Those are probably the most HD coils too since off of a launch edition. 450/451AB.This is what I have in a binder in my shop. Can't recall where I got it.....
If I recall correctly. Mojave springs are shorter than Overland. It's really a total pain to remove Overland rear springs - the brake lines are stretched to the max to get the springs OUT but you can relax the rear axle back up a bit when putting other springs in.Btw, itās not just a max tow thing, Overlands apparently have the longest rear coil springs. When I compared them to the Rubicon coils, they are about an inch shorter. Those are probably the most HD coils too since off of a launch edition. 450/451AB.
Yeah. It was sketch too because I didnāt have a big enough floor jack. I had to use the lower shock mounts and flex it all the way to the bump stops. My jack didnāt go high enough so I had to stack some wood on top.
Fml no idea how this works. Im from Canada. People might think our health care is "free" but that's for all the foreigners that come here and the people that are looking to abuse it specifically for addictions or to sell their perscriptions on the street to addicts. At the very least recently anyway with the current government. I can't get in to see a Dr and when I really have to its at least a few hours wait, they have no clue and I leave in the same pain I came in. Mostly new dr's from out of country who are young new and all booke learned. I was once told they didnt want to get me addicted after returning 3 years after a 30 day perscription was perscribed and Incame back in excrusiating pain for a long term back problem. I made that 39 day sript last 3 years before coming back as a last result then the young girl used her "book knoeledge" on the giy that's been to a dr every 10+ years. Fml. Ihl honestly hope it worked out for ya but ya 86k f*$^ me running boy that is nuts. Guess I'll just keep on jot complainin, in Pain.
you think thats bad. Two brain surgeries at a million each. After the second was a heavy dose of meds via a central line. Self injected at home.$3,000 per injection. One per day for 9 weeks not including a 2 week intensive care stay. thankfully all paid for.
My insurance rejected the first injection treatment the doc wanted me on for the vestibular migraines. Even the one they approved is several hundred a month. And the pills he said I should have as well - over 400/month so i told the pharmacy to hold off on those to see if the injections work. (I'm talking AFTER insurance - Medicare is extremely restrictive)
Yeah my dad has been telling me the same thing about medicare. It's not good. And he even has blue cross on top of that and its still bad... He basically is just choosing to live in pain because insurance wont cover a few procedures he needs to have done to reduce said pain but he can't afford it, even with a really nice pension, 401K and social security. I keep trying to get him to leave Washington but that wont happen unfortunately. So he is actually considering going back to work.
No other word for that than wow. For rest though, speechless.
The fact that you said rejected and by insurance in the same sentence for something medical, again, wow. Big business I guess right. Damn.
Oh man, thats a long fight! Cancer sucks! One of my neighbors is super poor. I dont thin she makes more than 15K a year. Anyway, she's been married 5 times now, and every guy died of cancer or some horrific once in a million accident. Kinda weird. Now her currant husband is end of life with prostate cancer that is in the bones now. I dont think he'll live another 6 months. It sure sucks to see that kind of stuff. But the both of them still smile every single day - happy that at least they have another day to enjoy despite the crap. I try hard to always keep that in mind and to remind others of that as well.
