shocked by shock and spring replacement cost

[ShadowsPapa]

4 hours of labor isn’t unreasonable. Swapping OEM coils and shocks Is the same as installing a basic lift. Dealer labor rates are pretty much double what an off-road shop is likely to charge.

That comes out to over $150/hour.............

Sponsored

 

[Renegade]

That comes out to over $150/hour.............

What is your dealer’s quoted hourly rate?

 

[DocMike]

They did that to me as well when I asked my dealer about putting Rubi suspension on my Jeep. Funny because the salesman I talked to when looking to get a JT bragged about how they like to build crazy stuff. Mine came to $900 with the alignment. Gotta love dealer "piss off prices."

Just for kicks, and because my wife said I was too busy and had too many other projects to do it myself (plus my shop is FULL of cars to work on) I asked the dealer's shop - what would it cost to install shocks and springs that I supply - take-offs from other JTs.
They seemed sort of "huh?" for a moment, then I told them I had a set of 4 shocks from a JT Rubicon and a pair of rear Sport S max tow springs, and Rubicon front springs I was going to put on my truck - what would it cost if they did it. I would furnish the parts, ready to go.
I figured maybe it would take them a couple of hours, 3 tops, especially with their shop, tools, lift, torque specs on hand and so on.
I dunno what their rate is but - $680!
Holy cow - told my wife there was no way I was spending that kind of money to do something I've done dozens of times on cars over the years - just last year did a total suspension and steering rebuild on my 73 and swapped all 4 springs and shocks and put on Caltrac bars, too. How much time can it take on the JT compared to removing rusty leaf spring bolts from the frame.
The front shocks on my cars are inside the front springs, and a royal pain to get to the two nuts that hold the bottom of the front shocks to the spring support - and the rear shocks - the tops are up in the TRUNK - and this old guy doesn't have fun squatting in the trunk of a car reaching into small holes to take the nuts off the shock tops.
The JT has to be 1/10th as hard as doing shocks on my cars!
Takes a special spring compressor to do the front springs on those cars - and time. You have to take off tires, shock tower top, remove the front shocks, insert the compressor......... anyway, it's a process.
Anywho - the service writer guy showed me the number 680 and I must have had a stunned look on my face as I said ok, thanks............

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'd have to ask, or see if they have it posted anywhere. I don't know about this dealer.
But I also have trouble believing that swapping 4 shocks and 4 springs would take 4 hours. You are going to take at least one end loose for each shock anyway to replace springs, I suspect, but have not looked, sway bars also have to be de-linked - don't know if there's enough give to the brake lines/hoses but suspect there is - every other vehicle I've swapped springs on has had plenty of brake line as they have to figure maximum travel for the wheels and allow extra hose length.
I've not done that on these specific vehicles, but as far as difficulty, I'd bet a steak dinner these are easier than most others I've done (which often require speciall tools, compressors, removing wheels and brake parts, etc.)
Once you have things loose for one spring of an axle, I'd expect the other should follow right along. So 4 hours seems a stretch, especially when more than one member has said they've done it in 3 or there-abouts.

 

[DocMike]

In my experience....dealers like to give an outrageous price on crap they do not want to do. They figure charge you a stupid amount so you will either decline or give them a tidy profit. What pisses me off is they quote this for MOPAR parts. It's factory stuff. I wonder what they would change you if you bought the stuff direct from the dealer. If the install is less.

I'd have to ask, or see if they have it posted anywhere. I don't know about this dealer.
But I also have trouble believing that swapping 4 shocks and 4 springs would take 4 hours. You are going to take at least one end loose for each shock anyway to replace springs, I suspect, but have not looked, sway bars also have to be de-linked - don't know if there's enough give to the brake lines/hoses but suspect there is - every other vehicle I've swapped springs on has had plenty of brake line as they have to figure maximum travel for the wheels and allow extra hose length.
I've not done that on these specific vehicles, but as far as difficulty, I'd bet a steak dinner these are easier than most others I've done (which often require speciall tools, compressors, removing wheels and brake parts, etc.)
Once you have things loose for one spring of an axle, I'd expect the other should follow right along. So 4 hours seems a stretch, especially when more than one member has said they've done it in 3 or there-abouts.

 

[Renegade]

I'd have to ask, or see if they have it posted anywhere. I don't know about this dealer.
But I also have trouble believing that swapping 4 shocks and 4 springs would take 4 hours. You are going to take at least one end loose for each shock anyway to replace springs, I suspect, but have not looked, sway bars also have to be de-linked - don't know if there's enough give to the brake lines/hoses but suspect there is - every other vehicle I've swapped springs on has had plenty of brake line as they have to figure maximum travel for the wheels and allow extra hose length.
I've not done that on these specific vehicles, but as far as difficulty, I'd bet a steak dinner these are easier than most others I've done (which often require speciall tools, compressors, removing wheels and brake parts, etc.)
Once you have things loose for one spring of an axle, I'd expect the other should follow right along. So 4 hours seems a stretch, especially when more than one member has said they've done it in 3 or there-abouts.

In the dealer shop rate world, it’s not about how quickly a mechanic finishes. It’s about how many “book” hours the computer says it takes. If the books says 4 hours, that’s how much they will charge. All 8 control arm bolts have to be loosened, then retorqued (most to 180 ft/lbs) upon completion. Both track bars unbolted at the axle and retorqued. All 4 sway bar links disconnected. Rear calipers removed and reinstalled. Front brake brackets unbolted. All 4 shocks and springs replaced. I’ve done multiple Gladiator lifts, and while I can probably do one completely in 3 hours, 4 hours is not unreasonable.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

In my experience....dealers like to give an outrageous price on crap they do not want to do. They figure charge you a stupid amount so you will either decline or give them a tidy profit. What pisses me off is they quote this for MOPAR parts. It's factory stuff. I wonder what they would change you if you bought the stuff direct from the dealer. If the install is less.

Makes sense - and I actually do that myself. I price my restorations up so that only very serious folks will actually have me do the work.
On the other hand - it would seem shocks and springs should be among the most easy jobs they run into in a day's work. Easy money, compared to spending time diagnosing, hoping they are right, and getting greasy or having antifreeze run down their arm into the armpit....... I HATE CORE PLUG REPLACEMENT!

And I suspect you are right there, too - like bringing your own eggs and bread to the diner in the morning....... I worked in a shop that had a parts store attatched. It was always better to buy the parts from our shop and have us install than to bring your own stuff.

I suspect you have explained at least a big part of it.

 

[DocMike]

I hate heater core replacement as well. Did two of them.. Never again.
But yes, I have seen hourly rates and minimums flex based on the day at the same dealer. If COVID clears up I'll use the lift at school. If not I might go to Denver as a friend has bigger jack stands. I got a good alignment shop in town that will cut you a deal for cash payment and won't charge you if you don't need the work or they can't do it.

Makes sense - and I actually do that myself. I price my restorations up so that only very serious folks will actually have me do the work.
On the other hand - it would seem shocks and springs should be among the most easy jobs they run into in a day's work. Easy money, compared to spending time diagnosing, hoping they are right, and getting greasy or having antifreeze run down their arm into the armpit....... I HATE CORE PLUG REPLACEMENT!

And I suspect you are right there, too - like bringing your own eggs and bread to the diner in the morning....... I worked in a shop that had a parts store attatched. It was always better to buy the parts from our shop and have us install than to bring your own stuff.

I suspect you have explained at least a big part of it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

In the dealer shop rate world, it’s not about how quickly a mechanic finishes. It’s about how many “book” hours the computer says it takes. If the books says 4 hours, that’s how much they will charge. All 8 control arm bolts have to be loosened, then retorqued (most to 180 ft/lbs) upon completion. Both track bars unbolted at the axle and retorqued. All 4 sway bar links disconnected. Rear calipers removed and reinstalled. Front brake brackets unbolted. All 4 shocks and springs replaced. I’ve done multiple Gladiator lifts, and while I can probably do one completely in 3 hours, 4 hours is not unreasonable.

Yeah, I forgot how we used to go to the Mitchell flat rate books when someone asked "what's it going to cost" but we'd say that was a worst-case.

So you don't have enough brake line length? Even going stock length springs and no spacers?
I'd have to guess that with spring compressors, some of that could be cut down. Even compressing an inch or two should help negate some of the disassembly.
This isn't a lift so there's no need to pull more distance than is already there. It should run roughly the same height. No need to give more distance to put the replacement springs back in, in my case.

 

[Renegade]

Yeah, I forgot how we used to go to the Mitchell flat rate books when someone asked "what's it going to cost" but we'd say that was a worst-case.

So you don't have enough brake line length? Even going stock length springs and no spacers?
I'd have to guess that with spring compressors, some of that could be cut down. Even compressing an inch or two should help negate some of the disassembly.
This isn't a lift so there's no need to pull more distance than is already there. It should run roughly the same height. No need to give more distance to put the replacement springs back in, in my case.

Maybe, but it’s easier to just loosen everything up completely and not fool with spring compressors. With stock springs, it might be a 2-hour job, but maybe...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Maybe, but it’s easier to just loosen everything up completely and not fool with spring compressors. With stock springs, it might be a 2-hour job, but maybe...

LOL - yeah, I hear that. "MAYBE". IF I do it myself, the weather will have to drop back from 95-100 degrees with matching humidity and i'd allow 4 hours anyway - because do things ever go better than planned? Sometimes.... not always.
I'm not sure my spring compressors would work - they are speciality tools made for other cars so....... I won't rely on those. (safer to not compress in many cases)

Come on over, I'll push my Javelin out of the shop (Might be able to start it - dash and cluster are out, battery disconnected), I'll run the JT in, and turn you loose. I have every tool that should be needed - just not a lift, yet.

 

[Renegade]

LOL - yeah, I hear that. "MAYBE". IF I do it myself, the weather will have to drop back from 95-100 degrees with matching humidity and i'd allow 4 hours anyway - because do things ever go better than planned? Sometimes.... not always.
I'm not sure my spring compressors would work - they are speciality tools made for other cars so....... I won't rely on those. (safer to not compress in many cases)

Come on over, I'll push my Javelin out of the shop (Might be able to start it - dash and cluster are out, battery disconnected), I'll run the JT in, and turn you loose. I have every tool that should be needed - just not a lift, yet.

Seriously, if you were close, I might do it in my garage for beer. I’ve swapped front springs on mine each of the past 2 weeks, so I’m getting used to it...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Seriously, if you were close, I might do it I’m my garage for beer. I’ve swapped front springs on mine each of the past 2 weeks, so I’m getting used to it...

It would be a pretty fair supply of beer........
That's one complaint my wife always has - "why are your friends and car people always clear across the country" - while her quilting friends are maybe 20 minutes away, 45 tops. (they get together for root beer)
I have a good friend in the AMC hobby - his wife and mine get along famously and their daughter is 4 and a real hoot, keeps asking when we're going to come back for a visit. They live in Indiana - hours and states away. And now my oldest son and grandson are in Florida.

 

[Texops]

Yeah, I forgot how we used to go to the Mitchell flat rate books when someone asked "what's it going to cost" but we'd say that was a worst-case.

So you don't have enough brake line length? Even going stock length springs and no spacers?
I'd have to guess that with spring compressors, some of that could be cut down. Even compressing an inch or two should help negate some of the disassembly.
This isn't a lift so there's no need to pull more distance than is already there. It should run roughly the same height. No need to give more distance to put the replacement springs back in, in my case.

You do have enough brake line length do not remove your calipers, i wouldn’t even loosen your control arm bolts since it’s barely 3/4” lift , just do the front jack it up put jack stands under the frame & after you disconnect the track bar axle side shocks & sway bar links, tires droop your axle watching the brake line oh also unbolt you’re brake bracket just for extra droop. The spring will fall out. Same for the rear. I’m getting old also and hurt the next day but my pocket book doesn’t lol. WAY easier than a car.

 

[Texops]

And no alignment needed your not touching the tie-rod or any geometry.

Sponsored