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Blade1668

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The reason everything is getting shaken up inside is because the rubber in the torsion axle is shot. Once you replace the Dexter torsion axle it'll ride quite smoothly. With an axle that is shot, it has no suspension at all, and every bump slams the frame against the axle. Torsion axles offer a superior ride to leafs, even with shocks.

The swaying side-to-side has to do with trailer loading and not having enough weight on the tongue. You ought to have between 10 and 13% of the total weight of the loaded trailer on the hitch ball. You shouldn't need either sway control or weight distribution with a Scamp as long as you load it properly.

I towed a Scamp 16 with a Honda Element for four years on a bare ball and without any issues at all.

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I had that from day one of ownership of it. If anything was loaded in it. Mine is the "Deluxe" side dinette dual propane tanks was fully loaded with everything but awning. Towing on S###y roads with my LJ.... On a few trips it wasn't bad except windy or large SUV's would blow it and my Jeep Wrangler all over the place.
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BTW: I got mine in 2010, and it's seen some miles.
 
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SargeDiesel

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I’d like to see how you set up the a/c. I’d like to do the same
Still working it out in my head. Hardest thing(for me) is initially figuring out the easiest to work with materials to separate the exhaust, intake and cool air outputs of the actual a/c unit and then separating them inside the containment box. Hoses and tube connectors should come easier. (Im probably over thinking it, good duct tape and some flex board is probably good enough)

I have also researched a thermostatic 120v plug. This will allow me to still control the temp of the a/c unit based on the inside temperature of my unit via the thermostatic remote, rather than it running continuously from being outside.

WTC100 Wireless Temperature Controller Digital Plug-in Thermostat Outlet Remote Control Heating Cooling Mode for Window A/C Fan Heater Greenhouse Homebrewing Reptile (Built-in Temp Sensor) https://a.co/d/08ceDyQo
 
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jc1986

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Nothing too crazy but I have been wanting to get the rooftop tent off the topper.

i needed a trailer to carry a motorcycle at times. Being able to take the crossbars off and have a plain utility trailer makes everything work well.

I do plan on putting a 3500lb axle and putting 315s on it just for fun.

Jeep Gladiator Show us what camper / trailer / RV you're towing with your JT IMG_0642


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Blade1668

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Nothing too crazy but I have been wanting to get the rooftop tent off the topper.

i needed a trailer to carry a motorcycle at times. Being able to take the crossbars off and have a plain utility trailer makes everything work well.

I do plan on putting a 3500lb axle and putting 315s on it just for fun.

IMG_0642.jpeg
I built a rack on one of my utility trailer for similar use. As to move my R.T.T on it and haul 4wheeler.
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Blade1668

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Still working it out in my head. Hardest thing(for me) is initially figuring out the easiest to work with materials to separate the exhaust, intake and cool air outputs of the actual a/c unit and then separating them inside the containment box. Hoses and tube connectors should come easier. (Im probably over thinking it, good duct tape and some flex board is probably good enough)

I have also researched a thermostatic 120v plug. This will allow me to still control the temp of the a/c unit based on the inside temperature of my unit via the thermostatic remote, rather than it running continuously from being outside.

WTC100 Wireless Temperature Controller Digital Plug-in Thermostat Outlet Remote Control Heating Cooling Mode for Window A/C Fan Heater Greenhouse Homebrewing Reptile (Built-in Temp Sensor) https://a.co/d/08ceDyQo
Throw out your ideas maybe some members here can give you some ideas to mull over.
 

Rockhunter

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I have a DIY/custom build.... so no brand name, it's about 900lbs dry. I have it set up for 12v, 120v and Renogy solar(100W).

Currently getting it accessorized with a microwave, stove and all the other creature comforts I think I might need.

I'm working on building an "outside-mobile" air-conditioner out of a 6000btu window unit. I don't want to cut into or have a window unit hanging out of the side of the trailer permanently. The trailer has inlet and recirculation vents to connect an air-conditioner or heater. So basically, I'm building a window unit air-conditioner inside a box and will connect it with a 4" tube system.

My current want is, wishing I had installed a rooftop rack (can be done later)

My current concern for the future is, more suspension travel or possibly reworking the fenders to allow for more rubber on the 15" wheels.

Screenshot_20240528_110318_Facebook.webp
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Very nice rig. I plan to pull my 67 Scotty from time to time. For the A/C on it, I simply cut a hole that my very small 5000 btu unit would fit thru, and hinged a return air vent on a piece of allucobond. I bungee it to the roof and slide the ac out from its foldable shelf. 2 minutes tops.
Jeep Gladiator Show us what camper / trailer / RV you're towing with your JT 0811181242
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Stuntman Mike

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Very nice rig. I plan to pull my 67 Scotty from time to time. For the A/C on it, I simply cut a hole that my very small 5000 btu unit would fit thru, and hinged a return air vent on a piece of allucobond. I bungee it to the roof and slide the ac out from its foldable shelf. 2 minutes tops.
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OMG, that looks great!
 

SargeDiesel

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Very nice rig. I plan to pull my 67 Scotty from time to time. For the A/C on it, I simply cut a hole that my very small 5000 btu unit would fit thru, and hinged a return air vent on a piece of allucobond. I bungee it to the roof and slide the ac out from its foldable shelf. 2 minutes tops.
0811181242.jpg
0811181441.jpg
Great idea, I just DON'T want to cut/compromise the shell with another cut-out or hole. It is probably the easiest/quickest way to install an a/c... I'm just looking for a less permanent, more mobile solution, hence the box within a box theory.
 
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Rockhunter

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I considered it too. But since there was a factory furnace vent at that location, the mod was easier to accept. Your idea will work for sure, the more air flow the coils on the ac have, the better it will work. I also tried a portable 8000 btu inside the camper the 1st year. It vented out a window. The unit in a semi shaded area would only pull it down to the mid-high 70s. Too much heat. Hence the meat locker window unit. But, that said, the portable unit sitting outside, and only the cool air hose piped in, did very little to cool it. The return air was built into the unit.
I'm certainly not an engineer, but I would experiment with sizing the return air to the ouside unit larger than the forced air inside. I bet since you're only cooling about half of the area I am, the size of the unit will more than make up for that. It sure is easier to sleep at 68* than 88*
 

Blade1668

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Looks like Gladiators, Scamps and Casitas are a thing, so here is mine. 2021 Mojave and a 2010 16ft Casita.
:like: :rock:
My choice for Scamp over Casita was due to ceiling higher in Scamp, I can just stand up straight.
 

Radio Guy

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:like: :rock:
My choice for Scamp over Casita was due to ceiling higher in Scamp, I can just stand up straight.
You should be good standing up in a Casita to 6ft then it can be painful. I recently did some mods on mine removing the two swivel captains chairs and building bench seats with storage under the cushions that converts to a 6ft bed. I was also able to increase the removable table size. For non Casita owners, they also have another bed that converts into seating for four with a table. Here are pics of my upgrade including new cushions and lots of storage under the new seats.

Jeep Gladiator Show us what camper / trailer / RV you're towing with your JT 1720239693569-xs

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Blade1668

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Great idea, I just DON'T want to cut/compromise the shell with another cut-out or hole. It is probably the easiest/quickest way to install an a/c... I'm just looking for a less permit, more mobile solution, hence the box within a box theory.
This is a portable A.C that I have, and used last summer.
Jeep Gladiator Show us what camper / trailer / RV you're towing with your JT 20240705_153201



You should be good standing up in a Casita to 6ft then it can be painful. I recently did some mods on mine removing the two swivel captains chairs and building bench seats with storage under the cushions that converts to a 6ft bed. I was also able to increase the removable table size. For non Casita owners, they also have another bed that converts into seating for four with a table. Here are pics of my upgrade including new cushions and lots of storage under the new seats.
As I commented on standing up, it's at the escape hatch spot with feet spread apart somewhat, I'm taller than 6ft. The reason the Casita was out for me, when I was shopping for one.
My Scamp isn't as nice looking as your Casita is, mine was in full use since Dec 2010 till July 2023.
Some of the changes I'm making; sealing / painting unfinished wood, removed the noisy (quit working) propane heater, installing LiPo battery/ batteries in that spot. Relocating propane tanks further back on hitch, replacing hoses for propane tanks. diesel heater under the refrigerator on other side, replacing cracked water tank (on order) ... fixed a few spots of the floor.
Jeep Gladiator Show us what camper / trailer / RV you're towing with your JT 17204000549939100325224211364463

A recommendation to anyone to assess if you really want wood interior vs fiberglass in T.T. there can be long-term disadvantages. It looks better though.
 

SargeDiesel

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This is a portable A.C that I have, and used last summer.
I researched the portable units for awhile and decided against it. The main reason is I am very limited with space. The other delt with drainage. Some units said it was required and some said it wasn't, but everyone I spoke to said you needed drainage, I wanted to stay away from adding another hole.
My trailer has 4" inlet/outlet hose fittings already built in, so I wanted to take advantage of them.
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