Solved: 12V outlet on center dash not working, any ideas?

[JRVGLAD]

Hello. My 12V outlet on the center dash is not powering my devices and I can't figure out why. Any ideas? FYI, battery delete was completed over a year ago. 2022 JT, original owner, no other mods.

-12V outlet has 11.68 volts in ACC mode and Run mode. Nothing works when I plug into it. The cables that have a light, indicating power, will illuminate. The end of the cables also show the same voltage so It doesn't appear to be a socket problem or cable problem.
-Battery is newer. 14 ish volts when engine running.
-Tried replacing the F42 fuse to see if that changed anything. No changes.
-When the engine is running, the voltage of the outlet drops to 9-10V. Still doesn't power my devices.
-Checked the cig lighter fuse. It was good. Also replaced it with a new fuse. No changes.

I don't understand why my devices aren't powering on when I have 11.68V at the outlet. Any ideas? Thank you.

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[sharpsicle]

Seems like you've eliminated the truck as the cause. Time to look at the devices and/or cables being used.

 

[JRVGLAD]

Possibly. I tried the same cable/devices in another vehicle and they work. It almost seems like as soon as there is a power draw/load from a device, the outlet doesn't provide the power. I don't know how to check for that but it appears that's what is happening.

 

[Lost1wing]

A bad connection could still show voltage but not put out any current. Bad connections could be, not plugged in correctly, broken wires or even bent pins.

 

[Hootbro]

I assume you meant fuse F52? You by chance have the portable wireless speaker in the back? That is on fuse F53 that taps off the same RUN/ACC 2 Relay in the PDC and it may be dragging down F52.

I would suggest pulling fuse F53 and see what happens.

 

[DylanM]

Power for the lighter socket comes from the battery via the Run/Accessory 2 Relay then fuse 52.

Open the PDC, pull the Run/Accessory 2 Relay out, and check the voltage you're getting to terminal 30 of the relay socket compared to your battery voltage. If the power to the relay socket is low then you have a wiring/connection issue inside the PDC to the relay, if the voltage to the socket is good then reinsert the relay. Switch the ignition to ACC and measure the voltage getting to fuse 52 compared to your battery voltage. If the voltage is lower at the fuse then you have either a faulty relay (bad contacts) or a wiring issue in the PDC between the relay and the fuse socket. You can swap the Run/Accessory 2 Relay with another of the same type in the PDC to see if that clears up the problem (thus verifying if the relay is faulty or not).

If all the voltage readings in the PDC check out good but you're seeing low voltage readings at the dash socket (assuming you're using a plug in accessory with voltage display), then check for a bad ground from the socket assembly to ground G910A (located on the right kick panel) and for poor connections at the socket plug.

 

[JRVGLAD]

Seems like you've eliminated the truck as the cause. Time to look at the devices and/or cables being used.

A bad connection could still show voltage but not put out any current. Bad connections could be, not plugged in correctly, broken wires or even bent pins.

Tried multiple cables and devices, no luck.

Connections seem to be good. I have current at the socket and at the end of the cable once plugged into the socket.

 

[JRVGLAD]

I assume you meant fuse F52? You by chance have the portable wireless speaker in the back? That is on fuse F53 that taps off the same RUN/ACC 2 Relay in the PDC and it may be dragging down F52.

I would suggest pulling fuse F53 and see what happens.

I plugged fuse 42 back in during the trouble shooting (the fuse removed when the aux batt delete was done). Adding the fuse did not resolve the problem.

I do not have the portable speaker but I do have fuse 53. I pulled it and still nothing.

 

[sharpsicle]

I plugged fuse 42 back in during the trouble shooting (the fuse removed when the aux batt delete was done). Adding the fuse did not resolve the problem.

I do not have the portable speaker but I do have fuse 53. I pulled it and still nothing.

He's saying F52, not F42.

Check F52.

Heck, if it were me, I would just replace F52 just to be sure.

 

[DylanM]

I plugged fuse 42 back in during the trouble shooting (the fuse removed when the aux batt delete was done). Adding the fuse did not resolve the problem.

I do not have the portable speaker but I do have fuse 53. I pulled it and still nothing.

Fuse 42 only affects whether the power control relay functions normally or not. Removing that fuse prevents the contacts in the PCR from opening and thus disconnecting the aux battery circuit from the main battery circuit. If the PCR was faulty then you'd be having quite a few more problems than just the dash power socket.

See post #6

 

[JRVGLAD]

He's saying F52, not F42.

Check F52.

Heck, if it were me, I would just replace F52 just to be sure.

Sorry, I meant 52. No changes. Checked the relays, all good. Also swapped the relays with no change. I'm measuring the voltage at the socket with a voltmeter. It's showing 11.8V. I just ordered a plug in accessory that shows the voltage and will allow me to plug in accessories while monitoring the voltage. Thank you everyone for the advice.

 

[Lost1wing]

Sorry, I meant 52. No changes. Checked the relays, all good. Also swapped the relays with no change. I'm measuring the voltage at the socket with a voltmeter. It's showing 11.8V. I just ordered a plug in accessory that shows the voltage and will allow me to plug in accessories while monitoring the voltage. Thank you everyone for the advice.

11.8vdc is either a bad connection or there is something causing a voltage drop. A test light would tell you if it is a bad connection. Either it will not illuminate or it will be dim. You should see your system voltage with the engine on.

 

[Hootbro]

What are you using for ground when checking for voltage? If it is the outer case side of the socket, I would ohm check that to a known good ground. Like @Lost1wing said, you have a voltage drop.

This is why troubleshooting electrical shit over the internet is like trying to herd kittens.

 

[brsnow2585]

Pop the panel under the steering column, there's a hard frame ground under there. I spent a lot of time under there replacing my 12V with the Mopar brake controller. I did t-taps off the 12V socket line, still planning to put the 12V socket back in somewhere, still have the plug under the dash. It'll probably end up somewhere by my right knee on the driver center console.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

-12V outlet has 11.68 volts in ACC mode and Run mode.
......................
................................
-When the engine is running, the voltage of the outlet drops to 9-10V.

The key points above are the baffling bit.............
11.68 volts in ACC mode but with engine running it drops to 9-10 volts???

I wonder about the connections at the battery - are they tight, and the battery negative ground point.

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