Sport S non Towmax- rubicon suspension upgrade

[A 2]

So I picked up a rubicon take off suspension for my NON Towmax sport S today from another member here. I think I’ve read every thread related to upgrading to a rubicon suspension on this forum. Many comments were helpful but mostly were centered around an upgrade to a sport S with Towmax or overland.

Specific to my upgrade:

1. The parts I picked up includes shocks, coils, sway Bar
links, track bars, and ties, etc (Pretty much everything). It sounds like the only parts different I should be Looking to swap are the shocks and coils. I tried to do a comparison of parts and it looks like all the other parts are the same?

2. I also have the rubicon steering damper. Is that the same as my sport S?

3. From what I gathered, since my truck does not have the Towmax option, the rear coils will definitely be an upgrade. Side note, I have the factory tow package but not tow max.

4. rule of thumb, when installing the coils put the larger part number on the passenger side. this should apply to front and back or just the front?

5. if I’m correct with #1, there should be no need to have the truck aligned since I will not be touching the steering components.


Con anyone shed a little more light?

Thanks!

-A2

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[DocMike]

My understanding is that the rear springs are right and left specific due to the gas tank being on one side. Can someone who knows more shed some light on this?

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Each spring has a corner. You should look into that to figure out which goes where. Maybe someone on here can help with that.

Most of the stuff should be the same as the Rubicon, other than the coils and Fox shocks.

I wouldn't waste your time installing that steering stabilizer. All factory JT steering stabilizers are trashcan fodder. Do yourself a favor and get one of these to install while you're doing the suspension swap. It will make the most difference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFGHMB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[A 2]

Each spring has a corner. You should look into that to figure out which goes where. Maybe someone on here can help with that.

Most of the stuff should be the same as the Rubicon, other than the coils and Fox shocks.

I wouldn't waste your time installing that steering stabilizer. All factory JT steering stabilizers are trashcan fodder. Do yourself a favor and get one of these to install while you're doing the suspension swap. It will make the most difference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFGHMB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks @Alabama Mud Machine. I’m going to start tearing the coils and shocks out tonight. Hopefully someone here can confirm coil placement before I get to that point.

Good tip on the Fox stabilizer. I’m going to order one tonight on Amazon. I can always come back and install it at a later time.

-A2

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Thanks @Alabama Mud Machine. I’m going to start tearing the coils and shocks out tonight. Hopefully someone here can confirm coil placement before I get to that point.

Good tip on the Fox stabilizer. I’m going to order one tonight on Amazon. I can always come back and install it at a later time.

-A2

Oh yeah, with the proper size sockets and allen wrenches, and my DeWalt 3/8" impact, it took me a whopping 15 minutes from opening the box to installing it.

Here's a tip... 4 bolts and the old one is out. Don't unbolt the factory stabilizer from the axle-mounted bracket that has three 13mm bolts. Unbolt the WHOLE bracket while it's still attached to the stabilizer on the axle side. Then unbolt the 1 big nut & bolt that's holding the stabilizer onto the knuckle side.

The reason being is that you won't be reusing that factory stabilizer bracket with the Fox TS 2.0 stabilizer that I linked you to. It comes with it's own custom bracket. But you will be reusing the factory bolts & nuts. I would still hang onto that bracket and stock stabilizer just incase you ever sell the Jeep or trade it in, you can swap the old factory stuff right back on there in 10-15 minutes.

 

[Under-Pressure]

Before you install the springs look into the Daytech 3/4" spacers also. Several on this forum have done that combo & it looks / sits great. That was my original plan.

 

[A 2]

I finished up the swap late last night. My 15 Y/O daughter helped me out. Here’s my report.

It looks like I gained roughly 3/4” all the way around. For some reason the front starboard (right) side lists about a 1/4”. Not sure what that’s about. I will check alter a few miles to see if things settle in.

Took her for a ride and it definitely rolls more in the turns. Not sure if this is from the coil rate or the added 3/4“ height. I’m guessing it’s the coil rate since the rubicon is set up for off road?

The Fox Shocks feel like they soak up the bumps better. The shocks look great! Everything drove straight down the highway.

Going to hook the Gladiator to my tandem axle dump trailer and see if there is a difference.

Overall I’m ok with experimenting this swap since a got an unbelievable deal on the rubicon take-offs. What I was hoping to achieve was better bump absorption and a slightly higher ride height Without loosing the street handling. The truck is a daily driver work truck. I might go the spacer route, original sport s coils, and the fox shocks and see how that feels.

Hopefully my experience helps others with a Non- Maxtow.

-A2

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Are you sure you got all 4 coils on their proper ends? Apparently each coil spring has it's own special location under the Jeep. Apparently each coil has a special/different part number to distinguish their locations. You might have the Front D & P coils backwards, or the same with the rear coils. I'd look into that. Most people report a stiffer ride over stock Sport S suspension.

 

[A 2]

Are you sure you got all 4 coils on their proper ends? Apparently each coil spring has it's own special location under the Jeep. Apparently each coil has a special/different part number to distinguish their locations. You might have the Front D & P coils backwards, or the same with the rear coils. I'd look into that. Most people report a stiffer ride over stock Sport S suspension.

It’s very possible. I looked at the part numbers on the existing coils and the higher numbers were on the passenger sides. I also read what people wrote on this forum and sounded like the consensus was the same.

How can I find out For sure?

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

It’s very possible. I looked at the part numbers on the existing coils and the higher numbers were on the passenger sides. I also read what people wrote on this forum and sounded like the consensus was the same.

How can I find out For sure?

I don't know man... You'll have to ask someone who knows all that. I don't get into the stock suspension knowledge, just the basics. I tend to save my cells for the aftermarket scene, since I have this issue where I "can't leave well-enough alone".

 

[Isle_of_Man]

It’s very possible. I looked at the part numbers on the existing coils and the higher numbers were on the passenger sides. I also read what people wrote on this forum and sounded like the consensus was the same.

How can I find out For sure?

Did you ever find out which spring goes on which corner?

 

[A 2]

Did you ever find out which spring goes on which corner?

After a few miles everything ended up settling in. Coils with the higher part number on the passenger sides up front and out back did the trick.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

After a few miles everything ended up settling in. Coils with the higher part number on the passenger sides up front and out back did the trick.

Yes, higher part number, for example 339 vs 340 for the last three digits, the higher number goes on the right. I've found that true on every one I've crawled under, including my own Overland, the max tow springs I got and the rubicon springs I got (front and rear).
TIP- DO NOT TIGHTEN PARTS WITH BUSHINGS until the truck is on the ground. If you tighten things up while the suspension or axle is hanging, it's trouble for those bushings and can cause the truck to sit unnatural.

The links, whatever, if there's a bushing involved, torque or tighten bolts and nuts when it's on the ground or the truck is supported by the springs, etc.

 

[danielspivey]

Yes, higher part number, for example 339 vs 340 for the last three digits, the higher number goes on the right. I've found that true on every one I've crawled under, including my own Overland, the max tow springs I got and the rubicon springs I got (front and rear).
TIP- DO NOT TIGHTEN PARTS WITH BUSHINGS until the truck is on the ground. If you tighten things up while the suspension or axle is hanging, it's trouble for those bushings and can cause the truck to sit unnatural.

The links, whatever, if there's a bushing involved, torque or tighten bolts and nuts when it's on the ground or the truck is supported by the springs, etc.

Yep this worked for me too, thanks papa.

everything symmetrical all around Even after 2 weeks of lift being installed.

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