Sport S vs Rubicon

[bastage]

I know that was your point. Your saying paying foe $1000 set of tires and selling them for $600 is not worth it. But your not paying full retail for the 33s that come on the gladiator. So it isn’t like you paid a grand for them and then your selling them for $600. You need to look at the difference in cost of two gladiator trims that are similarly optioned. If that difference is 4K, then you can look at what you would sell and keep, then decide if it’s worth it.

Let’s say the difference is 5k for similarly optioned Rubicon and max tow. For the 5k you get two lockers, sway bar disconnect, rock rails, metal rear bumper, under armor, high clearance fenders, 4:1 transfer case, fox shocks, 33s, Molle seat back panels, foot well ambient lighting, and maybe some more. For me, I like a little bling, so I love the rubicon hood and badging. If I didn’t get a rubicon I would have added some other text to the hood. Plus, the interior upgrades are nice.

Now, I’m not saying you should pay for all that, just because I think it’s a good value. If you don’t want any of it then it’s not at all. What I am saying is, if you do want even just the lockers and sway bar disconnect, it quickly starts to make financial sense. Because you can sell off some of the parts and reduce the price between the trim levels.

It doesn't matter if its discounted or not.. Paying for something that your going to sell for a loss is a loosing proposition.

That is the ONLY point I was trying to make. Doesn't matter if you pay retail or not.. Its what you spent overall out of pocket when all is said & done to get the features you want on your rig.

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[PDiddy]

It doesn't matter if its discounted or not.. Paying for something that your going to sell for a loss is a loosing proposition.

That is the ONLY point I was trying to make. Doesn't matter if you pay retail or not.. Its what you spent overall out of pocket when all is said & done to get the features you want on your rig.

My point was, your not selling it for a loss. I I think we may have to agree to disagree on this one.

 

[Larry D]

I know that was your point. Your saying paying foe $1000 set of tires and selling them for $600 is not worth it. But your not paying full retail for the 33s that come on the gladiator. So it isn’t like you paid a grand for them and then your selling them for $600. You need to look at the difference in cost of two gladiator trims that are similarly optioned. If that difference is 4K, then you can look at what you would sell and keep, then decide if it’s worth it.

Let’s say the difference is 5k for similarly optioned Rubicon and max tow. For the 5k you get two lockers, sway bar disconnect, rock rails, metal rear bumper, under armor, high clearance fenders, 4:1 transfer case, fox shocks, 33s, Molle seat back panels, foot well ambient lighting, and maybe some more. For me, I like a little bling, so I love the rubicon hood and badging. If I didn’t get a rubicon I would have added some other text to the hood. Plus, the interior upgrades are nice.

Now, I’m not saying you should pay for all that, just because I think it’s a good value. If you don’t want any of it then it’s not at all. What I am saying is, if you do want even just the lockers and sway bar disconnect, it quickly starts to make financial sense. Because you can sell off some of the parts and reduce the price between the trim levels.

This here is correct! I bought the wife a JTRD I like it so much I ordered myself a gecko JTSD with the same options minus the leather seats. If I had added leather to the sport it would of been about 5000 or less difference. I have already bought some new take off rubicon tires and wheels for the sport 600 for them. Having lockers is always nice ? but nether one of these trucks are going to be out rock crawling. I have a buggy for that shit. And a 2001 tj

 

[LostWoods]

This is a much simpler choice than with the Wrangler because with the Wrangler, the D44 axles are gated behind the Rubicon package. You can get the same axle with the max tow so it's basically between those two for many IMO.

1. Is the Rubicon mostly what you want and will do you do little modification? Buy a Rubicon and welcome to the most capable mass produced pickup on the market.
2. Are you going to modify heavily and are you ok with the xfer case gearing? You're likely going to replace everything that makes a Rubicon a Rubicon so other than cosmetics, it's probably smarter to get the Max Tow.
3. Are you dead set on the sway bar, 4:1 xfer case, or cosmetics? Well those aren't cheap to swap so might as well just get the Rubicon.

 

[Gvsukids]

Why don't Rubicon owners buy Sport takeoffs?

 

[seven30]

If you have intentions of resale and are just trying to save a buck I would lean towards Rubicon as resale value should be higher than a Sport and more desirable to a dealer from a marketing perspective.

However, if you are trying to keep your payment down, and do not mind missing some creature features the Sport is a great package. There is a blessing in simplicity.

Finally, drive both. There are some creature comforts in a Rubicon over a Sport.

You are so right about the base Sport. In fact, the only thing I needed beside the MT tranny were power windows for my dog. The base model does not offer that. There is something very Jeep about the base model. A kind of purity and lack of pretense.

And, the base has the exact same V6 as the other models.

 

[JET_83]

It doesn't matter if its discounted or not.. Paying for something that your going to sell for a loss is a loosing proposition.

That is the ONLY point I was trying to make. Doesn't matter if you pay retail or not.. Its what you spent overall out of pocket when all is said & done to get the features you want on your rig.

There will always be a loss, but Jeep will hold its resale better than most if not all others.

 

[Trippin01]

I have a Sport S, that I planned to keep building up to what ever it is I envision that day (this is not economical) but I love it. I special ordered it as bare bones as I could (for a Max Tow) and it has never let me down and I push it to the limits all the time, it is purely for fun, trails and Overlanding camping. If all I could afford is one vehicle, a jeep JT, I would want it loaded for sure so a Mojave or Rubicon would fit the bill nicely equipped. But I have a nice economy car for my DD.

 

[seven30]

I have a Sport S, that I planned to keep building up to what ever it is I envision that day (this is not economical) but I love it. I special ordered it as bare bones as I could (for a Max Tow) and it has never let me down and I push it to the limits all the time, it is purely for fun, trails and Overlanding camping. If all I could afford is one vehicle, a jeep JT, I would want it loaded for sure so a Mojave or Rubicon would fit the bill nicely equipped. But I have a nice economy car for my DD.

Great choice. I would have gone that route myself but a manual with 4.10 gears limited the choices. Really Jeep should make 4.10 standard with a manual.

 

[Trippin01]

Great choice. I would have gone that route myself but a manual with 4.10 gears limited the choices. Really Jeep should make 4.10 standard with a manual.

I went to 5.13 gears. Sooo nice when I'm in the Rocks. I probably need to up date my build sheet/page. Hoping to do the Rubicon in June.

 

[jmdwifi]

I had an overland in 2020 and paid 44k which was a good deal. Long story but sold it, bought a ram, missed the gladiator. Got a rubicon X for 50k. Totally worth it for me.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I disagree with most of the comments simply because you specified rock crawling. You cannot gear a non-rubicon down enough via axles to even match the 77-1 crawl ratio of a stock rubicon. You'd need 6-1 axle gears just to get even. Lockers are not cheap. Manual sway bar disconnects are no where near as convenient as pushing a button. For the $7k difference you can buy lockers and anti-rocks, but aftermarket mods don't add value like factory options. Generally each model retains value about the same as a percentage, but aftermarket adds don't add much if anything. You'll be close to the same money into both after adding the lockers and sway bars, but the max tow will still be worth $5-7k less. I didn't buy the mojave for crawling because we have a JLUR for that, and it's shocks and hydraulic bumpstops set of apart from any other Jeep and it's used for speed in the desert.

 

[Supazuk]

I disagree with most of the comments simply because you specified rock crawling. You cannot gear a non-rubicon down enough via axles to even match the 77-1 crawl ratio of a stock rubicon. You'd need 6-1 axle gears just to get even. Lockers are not cheap. Manual sway bar disconnects are no where near as convenient as pushing a button. For the $7k difference you can buy lockers and anti-rocks, but aftermarket mods don't add value like factory options. Generally each model retains value about the same as a percentage, but aftermarket adds don't add much if anything. You'll be close to the same money into both after adding the lockers and sway bars, but the max tow will still be worth $5-7k less. I didn't buy the mojave for crawling because we have a JLUR for that, and it's shocks and hydraulic bumpstops set of apart from any other Jeep and it's used for speed in the desert.

what is resale haha ( I drive my junk into the ground)
Left over on the lot 2023 Sport S max tow w/ most if not all the options and both full and half doors for like 43 K with 4.10 gears (I don't' like leather so I don't care)
added a front auto locker -$499
Front manual sway bar disconnects -$129
Enhanced rubi rails -$300 (this was a loss because mine came with running bords I am yet to sell)
take off Rubicon flares-$250 ( I wonder what max tow fenders with minor scratches are worth)
take off Rubicon suspension (only used the front)-$150
second rear hook $100
minus tires and Tcase gears at this point I'm pretty set up, so the sport max tow was worth it as far as the extra gearing I have plans to swap ina Rubicon t-case just waiting on deals
(If I want to do stupid low rang technical no regard for body shit i have a buggie)
and there was no way I was buying a new 22 mile Rubicon with the options i got for under 45K and that could be less since I "could" sell the take off parts but minus buying stuff I hate market place)

That also left a ton of money for upgrades I would wanted if I had bought Rubicon
I'll be honest after it got to that I just fired the parts cannon:
-tera flex lowers steering and track bar
-2 inch front and rear spacers
-35 x11.5 tires (i saved money since here scince i didn't pay for rubicon tires)
-winch and bumper ( wife askes if I'm gonna sell the factory front bumper but as of right now its keeping my softtop off the basment foor in the winter lol)
and a bunch of other creature comforts that I wanted
its is possible to get Rubicon like performance out of sport and it was way more fun building vs buying

 

[Zachanadandy]

what is resale haha ( I drive my junk into the ground)
Left over on the lot 2023 Sport S max tow w/ most if not all the options and both full and half doors for like 43 K with 4.10 gears (I don't' like leather so I don't care)
added a front auto locker -$499
Front manual sway bar disconnects -$129
Enhanced rubi rails -$300 (this was a loss because mine came with running bords I am yet to sell)
take off Rubicon flares-$250 ( I wonder what max tow fenders with minor scratches are worth)
take off Rubicon suspension (only used the front)-$150
second rear hook $100
minus tires and Tcase gears at this point I'm pretty set up, so the sport max tow was worth it as far as the extra gearing I have plans to swap ina Rubicon t-case just waiting on deals
(If I want to do stupid low rang technical no regard for body shit i have a buggie)
and there was no way I was buying a new 22 mile Rubicon with the options i got for under 45K and that could be less since I "could" sell the take off parts but minus buying stuff I hate market place)

That also left a ton of money for upgrades I would wanted if I had bought Rubicon
I'll be honest after it got to that I just fired the parts cannon:
-tera flex lowers steering and track bar
-2 inch front and rear spacers
-35 x11.5 tires (i saved money since here scince i didn't pay for rubicon tires)
-winch and bumper ( wife askes if I'm gonna sell the factory front bumper but as of right now its keeping my softtop off the basment foor in the winter lol)
and a bunch of other creature comforts that I wanted
its is possible to get Rubicon like performance out of sport and it was way more fun building vs buying

My 2023 mojave loaded had a sticker of $65k, got it for $52k and I much prefer the leather for ease of cleaning between the dog hair and their muddy footprints. Tires were replaced with 37s that I scored from Walmart for $412 shipped. Sold the take offs for $600. AEV 2" lift for $500. Could have done the exact same with a Rubicon at the time. A little more than you spent but more built, huge time savings, and resale value. Not that it is the only way, but a lot of guys on here aren't installing lockers themselves either so there would be almost no savings for them going your route vs buying the Rubicon.

 

[Stan H]

My 2023 mojave loaded had a sticker of $65k, got it for $52k and I much prefer the leather for ease of cleaning between the dog hair and their muddy footprints. Tires were replaced with 37s that I scored from Walmart for $412 shipped. Sold the take offs for $600. AEV 2" lift for $500. Could have done the exact same with a Rubicon at the time. A little more than you spent but more built, huge time savings, and resale value. Not that is the only way, but a lot of guys on here aren't installing lockers themselves either so there would be almost no savings for them going your route vs buying the Rubicon.

Yeah I was out the door at 56k Rubicon loaded / cloth seats ,love it .

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