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brsnow2585

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That's good information. Thanks for letting me know.



How we drive and maintain our vehicles will determine engine longevity more so than the application they are put it. In your situation, the engine itself has been fine. The issues you've experienced has mostly been emissions related.



The more we expose ourselves to the elements, the greater chance there is to encounter some type of mishap. There are some Gladiator owners who will log 100,000 miles before they experience a cracked windshield. There are others who will need to replace the windshield 4 times in 100,000 miles. Some people call favorable and unfavorable outcomes good luck or bad luck. I tend to think of it as chance. There's a higher probability of issues when you expose the vehicle to harsher environments.
I made it to 40k before I need a windshield. Haven't done it yet and didn't even realize when it happened until I pulled in the driveway. ~150 miles of mostly interstate, 1/3 is under construction. Got a golf ball size bull's-eye but it's out of my sight line and not spreading yet. I'm going to have to get it fixed before we start getting colder though.
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brsnow2585

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Before we get into expensive oils, we first need to talk about the correct oil. The oil that you're using isn't designed for a long lasting DPF. Based on SAE studies, the difference between 0.6% and 1.0% SAPS can increase DPF life as much as 270%. What does that mean in the real-world? Well, we've seen several 3rd Gen EcoDiesel owners having to replace their DPFs by 120,000 miles because they were full of ash. The folks running a low ash oil can log 300,000 miles on the factory DPF. When the DPF begins to fill with ash, you'll experience more frequent regens and robbed power (backpressure from restricted DPF). More frequent regens means increased fuel consumption and lower efficiency.

There are many 3rd gen EcoDiesel owners who get caught in the trap of believing that finding a cheaper off-the-shelf oil (e.g., Castrol Euro, Quaker State, etc.) is a great solution. A full SAPS oil is only going to cause more problems in the long run. Will a full SAPS oil get you past the 5 years/100,000-mile warranty period? Yes.
I'm just a little over 40k on my '22, I've only seen once that it's gone into Regen. Is that normal? That's supposed to run hotter too burn off the crud in the dpf.
 

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That's the same method that spawned all the Honda small engine clones. The blocks get a grade before they get assembled, if one doesn't get a passing grade it gets sold off to any number of clone brands. I've had plenty of the clones never had problems with them, the difference I noticed was cosmetic, rough casting or tooling marks mostly.
The technical service manuals laid out the codes for the cylinder sizes and bearing sizes.
Know what you are doing and you won't have any problem.
I got a whopping deal on a front license plate holder to use with a winch install this weekend because one of the holes wasn't fully stamped out and it went to powder coating that way - it was a bottom hole. I generally only use two screws to mount plates anyway.
 

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Dealer said the DPF was cracked internally, but I have no idea how they determined that.
We didn't see this with the 2nd Gen EcoDiesel, but we've seen this happen with the 3rd gen EcoDiesel. From my understanding, air flow becomes restricted when the DPF gets full of ash, but in certain conditions, the heat and pressure can eventually lead to cracking.

The fact that you had 85,000 miles on your factory DPF while running a full SAPs oil, then I can only assume that your DPF was nearing the end due to ash loading. And at some point, you had the perfect high heat/high pressure conditions to cause the ceramic core to crack.
 

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I'm just a little over 40k on my '22, I've only seen once that it's gone into Regen. Is that normal? That's supposed to run hotter too burn off the crud in the dpf.
You only see the regen message when nearing critical conditions, otherwise, your daily driving has been adequate for regens to occur without you even knowing about it.
 

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Expensive, no. Quality, yes.
Love the video Lake did comparing expensive "boutique" or big fancy named oil to off the shelf oil from NAPA and Walmart.

The executive summary - the $10 oils didn't do any better than the $5 oils. In fact, the NAPA oil did amazingly well in wear and other areas.
Lake always talks about the application. On that engine application and use case, NAPA worked good. You need to do testing and we’ve already done so on the Facebook groups and in the different forums .There’s a few oils that are perform better then the Walmart oils or auto parts store oils. The easiest and widely used one is Amsoil MS. I’m playing around with a low saps Redline Oil Euro but it will take years before there’s enough data to show how well it will perform over Amsoil MS.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Rusty PW

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You only see the regen message when nearing critical conditions, otherwise, your daily driving has been adequate for regens to occur without you even knowing about it.
I watch my regens on my Banks iDash gauge. Over the miles. I have noticed a slight decrease in mileage and minutes between regens. I just bought a bottle of that SCR cleaner you posted earlier. The only place that I could find it locally was at Advanced Auto for $26 a bottle. See how this works out.
 

biodiesel

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I watch my regens on my Banks iDash gauge.
The iDash is nice!

Over the miles. I have noticed a slight decrease in mileage and minutes between regens.
How many miles do you have on the Jeep?

I just bought a bottle of that SCR cleaner you posted earlier. The only place that I could find it locally was at Advanced Auto for $26 a bottle. See how this works out.
Check Amazon. Sometimes they have it for $18.00.
 

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Rusty PW

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The iDash is nice!
How many miles do you have on the Jeep?
Check Amazon. Sometimes they have it for $18.00.
63,000 miles.
Friday, I was out running around after work, when I remembered your post about the SCR cleaner. So I started to look for it. I was getting about 850 miles between regens, now down to around 800 miles between regens.
 

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The stock Gen 3 EcoDiesels are pretty solid. Everyone over 200,000 miles has only had to replace the DPF. We have one guy on the Ram forum that should be turning 300,000 by the end of the year. So far, he hasn't had any issues. As a matter of fact, he's been running a low SAPS oil so he's still on the factory DPF!
At what mileage are you seeing them having to replace the DPF?
 

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63,000 miles.
Are you running a fuel additive?

Friday, I was out running around after work, when I remembered your post about the SCR cleaner. So I started to look for it. I was getting about 850 miles between regens, now down to around 800 miles between regens.
The Rislone DEF/SCR cleaner won't improve your regens, but it will keep the DEF injector clean and minimize common problems that are associated with the DEF system as a whole.
 

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At what mileage are you seeing them having to replace the DPF?
We see a lot of DPFs needing replaced between 120,000 - 150,000 in the Ram trucks. There's been a few failures in the 100,000 - 115,000 range, so clearly how we drive impacts DPF longevity. Also, a lot of 3rd gen EcoDiesel owners are running a full SAPS oil which is the biggest issue. We're seeing DPFs last 300,000 miles when using a low SAPS oil.
 

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Are you running a fuel additive?



The Rislone DEF/SCR cleaner won't improve your regens, but it will keep the DEF injector clean and minimize common problems that are associated with the DEF system as a whole.
Yeah, HotShots for now. Switching to XPD when this bottle is empty. Also switching from Mobil 1 TDT oil to Mobil 1 ESP oil next oil change. Mid SAPS to low SAPS.
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