Strange electrical gremlin this morning

[Darkamek]

So on my way to work I stop at a gas station to grab a drink and start my vehicle again. Radio is blank, climate controls have no lights. I can turn the climate controls on but they still show no lights and the heated seats and steering wheel doesn’t turn on. On the dash I got the A symbol that the stop/start system doesn’t work as well.

So I get to work and went to check the battery terminals to see if they are tight. Also had my multimeter to see if any fuses were blown and what voltage I had at the main battery. Main battery was 12.56V and the fuses checked out fine. Decided to start the vehicle and everything turned on as normal. Not sure if I’m going to have more issues or not. I really hate troubleshooting intermittent problems.

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[Hootbro]

You have the 8.4 radio? They have been slow rolling a OTA update for the last year and sometimes it will get in a loop of failing multiple times and causing electrical issues.

 

[Darkamek]

You have the 8.4 radio? They have been slow rolling a OTA update for the last year and sometimes it will get in a loop of failing multiple times and causing electrical issues.

I have the Stinger Heigh10 actually.

 

[Lost1wing]

Do yourself a favor and check your battery voltage in the morning before you start. Could be the your drive in to work put enough of a charge on the battery to show good. It would be real nice to see that 12.56vdc in the morning.

I wouldn't rule out the radio update.well then you don't have a uconnect radio. Never mind on that update.

 

[Darkamek]

I actually have three batteries in my truck. The genesis dual battery under the rear seat. I know that one is charged as I charged it separately last week on a noco 2amp charger. The ones under the hood I haven’t charged.

My drive to work is an hour each way and I work anywhere from 4 to 6 days a week. So the ecodiesel does get driven a lot. Bought the truck last year and I put 22,000 miles in one year.

 

[Hootbro]

Well then, you have some extra layers of complication with the Stinger and the 3 battery system.

Symptom wise then, I would recommend approaching it as a Start/Stop issue and focus on why that disable message light is on? You may need to have it scanned with a higher level scan tool and not a generic OBDII reader. Need to see if you are having communication issues and low voltage messages being stored. Pending but not posting codes will trip the Start/Stop disable message symbol.

Without data, you will get a lot of stabbing guesses.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well then, you have some extra layers of complication with the Stinger and the 3 battery system.

Symptom wise then, I would recommend approaching it as a Start/Stop issue and focus on why that disable message light is on? You may need to have it scanned with a higher level scan tool and not a generic OBDII reader. Need to see if you are having communication issues and low voltage messages being stored. Pending but not posting codes will trip the Start/Stop disable message symbol.

Without data, you will get a lot of stabbing guesses.

Some things are proprietary FCA or Stellantis. A generic reader can't always catch all of them properly.

On the dash I got the A symbol that the stop/start system doesn’t work as well.

Yeah, standard troubleshooting may not help here since you have so many changes that will impact exactly what you experienced.
With your battery changes, how did you wire things in? I assume you have the IBS on the main/crank battery under the hood?

The genesis dual battery under the rear seat. I know that one is charged as I charged it separately last week on a noco 2amp charger. The ones under the hood I haven’t charged.

That implies 4 batteries - the dual batteries under the seat, the standard crank battery and the standard aux battery.

Are the two under the hood original? You checked voltage at the main/crank battery but has that aux battery been independently tested - for voltage and health?

 

[Darkamek]

Sorry the Genesis battery setup is only one extra battery under the rear seat. It is hooked up to the main battery for power and a different ground in the back. I can easily isolate this one from the rest of the system.

The IBS is hooked up to the main battery.

I need to isolate the batteries at home to check them and charge them separately. They are the original batteries and are a little over a year old.

 

[Iam_Gladiator]

So on my way to work I stop at a gas station to grab a drink and start my vehicle again. Radio is blank, climate controls have no lights. I can turn the climate controls on but they still show no lights and the heated seats and steering wheel doesn’t turn on. On the dash I got the A symbol that the stop/start system doesn’t work as well.

So I get to work and went to check the battery terminals to see if they are tight. Also had my multimeter to see if any fuses were blown and what voltage I had at the main battery. Main battery was 12.56V and the fuses checked out fine. Decided to start the vehicle and everything turned on as normal. Not sure if I’m going to have more issues or not. I really hate troubleshooting intermittent problems.

May need to check the ECU, speaking from my own experience with Chrysler products. It would be best to check the electrical diagram to be sure it’s not something else

 

[Darkamek]

Tuesday I plan on checking the batteries. I did turn on the stop/start system as I never use it. When I got to the light and stop the voltage was dipping to 11.9 to 12.1V and my fog lights shut off when it restarted one time. After two stop/starts the stop/start system was no longer ready.

When I was driving to work this morning the stop/start system was ready.

I think I might have a battery issue but I would like to check and charge before I go buy a new battery.

Seeing as I never use the stop/start system I think may delete it.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Tuesday I plan on checking the batteries. I did turn on the stop/start system as I never use it. When I got to the light and stop the voltage was dipping to 11.9 to 12.1V and my fog lights shut off when it restarted one time. After two stop/starts the stop/start system was no longer ready.

When I was driving to work this morning the stop/start system was ready.

I think I might have a battery issue but I would like to check and charge before I go buy a new battery.

Seeing as I never use the stop/start system I think may delete it.

You can't delete the ESS. You can remove the battery it uses to keep the computers stable, but that doesn't really gain you much. The button on the dash is the only way to keep ESS from turning off the engine. There are multiple devices available that will press the button for you.

Disconnect the ground cables and separately charge each battery. Disconnect the IBS from the negative post of the main battery for about 15 minutes, and then reassemble everything. If the problem was just a low battery state, this will fix it. However, it may be time to replace the batteries.

 

[Darkamek]

You can't delete the ESS. You can remove the battery it uses to keep the computers stable, but that doesn't really gain you much. The button on the dash is the only way to keep ESS from turning off the engine. There are multiple devices available that will press the button for you.

Disconnect the ground cables and separately charge each battery. Disconnect the IBS from the negative post of the main battery for about 15 minutes, and then reassemble everything. If the problem was just a low battery state, this will fix it. However, it may be time to replace the batteries.

I'm sorry by delete I meant the battery and not the ESS system itself.

I took the ground off today and my main battery measure 12.51V and the aux14 battery measures 12.47V

Currently I am charging the main battery by itself. I will charge the little battery after. I should be able to charge it by using N1 and it's ground correct?

 

[Lost1wing]

If the cables are still on the positive post, all you need to do is move the charger negative to the aux battery cable. One of those two cables that you removed from the main negative top plate is your aux negative cable. The other goes to you fender ground.

 

[Lost1wing]

No need to remove anything from the main positive. You connect your positive clamp of you charger there and leave it.

To charge your main battery you can remove both negative cables from the plate. You can either remove that plate from the post and connect your negative charger clamp on the main battery post, or you can just put the negative clamp of your charger on the post, not on the plate. This is a good time to unplug the connector for your IBS. It's mounted to that same plate.

When the main is charged, just remove the charger negative clamp and put it on the cable removed from the plate. Mind you, that one goes to the fender, and one goes to your aux negative. When it is charged, connect the cables back to the plate. Install the connector on the IBS. Install the ground at the fender. Hopefully, you had already removed it and kept it from touching anything.

Don't panic if some items are not on your radio are missing or that your start stop doesn't work right away. Give it a day or two.

 

[Darkamek]

Anyways all three batteries are charged and the IBS is reset. We will have to see if anything else happens.

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