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Sway bar disconnect on a non Rubi

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d k

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Is it even worth getting the 8.4 from the dealer?
or is it something thatcan ne added later to the 5.0?
second question is the aux switches....worth getting from the dealer or add later?
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WK2JT

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Is it even worth getting the 8.4 from the dealer?
or is it something thatcan ne added later to the 5.0?
second question is the aux switches....worth getting from the dealer or add later?
Aux switches in my opinion are worth getting as a factory option or not at all. After the fact, you lose the battery and accessory power leads in the cabin loom. This is handy for wiring up dash cams. After the fact, something like a trigger controller is a more feature rich option. Other switch controllers out there like rough country and spod.

8.4, I’m not sure what you may or may not lose out on. The HVAC controls are different between the two radio options.
 
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I fully agree - getting switches from the factory is the way to go...I just cant find them on anything I like as far as how id like it equipped

Aux switches in my opinion are worth getting as a factory option or not at all. After the fact, you lose the battery and accessory power leads in the cabin loom. This is handy for wiring up dash cams. After the fact, something like a trigger controller is a more feature rich option. Other switch controllers out there like rough country and spod.

8.4, I’m not sure what you may or may not lose out on. The HVAC controls are different between the two radio options.
 

DocMike

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My Sport S came with Aux switches from the dealer... Will be looking for things to do with them.
 

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It won't take long to find a use for the switch's I have used all 4 and the engine on power wire in cab, Aux lights front and rear, winch power relay, Aux 12 v power in bed, cab one to second 12v power port.
 

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The disco only really needs a means to supply 12v power. Spring pressure holds it locked and 12v opens it.

All you would need is a relay and a switch source and it would be stand alone. Same is possible with the lockers. The factory setup interfaces with the pcm so it can only be activated in 4wd and speeds over X interrupt power so it locks up "for safety".
 

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If I had a not rubicon and needed additional articulation I would look at the antirock as a full time option. You can get the disco links or just pop yours off yourself but as stated, a little sway control can make a big difference offroad.

Sniff around on youtube and there is a video showing the difference on an RTI ramp, something 10 additional inches worth of ability with the rear connected due to forcing the axle to remain in contact.
 

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What’s the point?

So I bought the max tow sport S because it checked all the boxes including the wider Rubicon D-44’s with 4:10’s.

I had a 2016 Rubicon JKUHR before this JT, and I had trouble with the lockers, an $800 dollar fix under warranty and water getting into the electronic sway bar discount which eventually would need to be replaced at over $1500.

The point for me is to add the stronger parts, but don’t pay for factory parts then exchange them.

I am adding:
1- ARB’s stronger than the factory lockers.
2- Currie’s proven Antirock swaybar, gives the added stability off-road and no electronics to worry about.
3- aftermarket hard rock wheels like the Rubicon, but in an 8.5” width vs Rubicon’s 7.5” width.
4- 35x12:50 Patagonia
5- rock crawler lift.
6- max tow has two piece fenders so go with the rigged ridge fender chop DRl’s
7- replace the hood with Rubicon hood (maybe)


To answer the original poster’s question, Currie Ant-Rock over electronic Rubicon disconnect all day long!

Oh, and off road only lever action swaybar may be another non electronic viable option
 

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Personally I just like to learn from people who have more experience. I have had one lifted K20 Suburban. That is the extent of my off road knowledge. I agree with you 100%. Why buy the Rubicon when there are better options out there. I'm standing on the shoulders of giants, but I'll admit it. I had never heard of Currie til now. Looks like I need to check it out. Thank you.


What’s the point?

So I bought the max tow sport S because it checked all the boxes including the wider Rubicon D-44’s with 4:10’s.

I had a 2016 Rubicon JKUHR before this JT, and I had trouble with the lockers, an $800 dollar fix under warranty and water getting into the electronic sway bar discount which eventually would need to be replaced at over $1500.

The point for me is to add the stronger parts, but don’t pay for factory parts then exchange them.

I am adding:
1- ARB’s stronger than the factory lockers.
2- Currie’s proven Antirock swaybar, gives the added stability off-road and no electronics to worry about.
3- aftermarket hard rock wheels like the Rubicon, but in an 8.5” width vs Rubicon’s 7.5” width.
4- 35x12:50 Patagonia
5- rock crawler lift.
6- max tow has two piece fenders so go with the rigged ridge fender chop DRl’s
7- replace the hood with Rubicon hood (maybe)


To answer the original poster’s question, Currie Ant-Rock over electronic Rubicon disconnect all day long!

Oh, and off road only lever action swaybar may be another non electronic viable option
 

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If I had a not rubicon and needed additional articulation I would look at the antirock as a full time option. You can get the disco links or just pop yours off yourself but as stated, a little sway control can make a big difference offroad.

Sniff around on youtube and there is a video showing the difference on an RTI ramp, something 10 additional inches worth of ability with the rear connected due to forcing the axle to remain in contact.
I get the concept of an RTI ramp but I also feel like the rear swaybar on the RTI ramp is a bit misleading. The problem being that it's not a true demonstration of being crossed up because gravity is causing a significant weight shift toward the rear of the vehicle which causes a lot more squat than you will normally see.

In practice, there are situations where having no sway bars is beneficial (like being truly crossed on mostly level ground) but IMO, being able to take off-camber parts of the trail without changing underwear is more important than a little more articulation.
 

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Is it even worth getting the 8.4 from the dealer?
or is it something thatcan ne added later to the 5.0?
second question is the aux switches....worth getting from the dealer or add later?
If you want the 8.4", at least get the 7" now. That is my one regret because aftermarket options are slim and the 5" to the others is a pain in the ass due to the aforementioned HVAC controls.

The 5" has integrated power/volume on the head unit while the others have them on the HVAC controls. If you upgrade the 5" to the others, you lose those buttons, can't actually turn off the radio, and only have the steering wheel controls for volume.
 
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I got the Teraflex quick disconnects on my JK. They were a little bit of a bitch to use till they wore in. It is easiest to put them on and off on totally flat ground and I bought some different cotter pins that were smaller and easier to put in.

Functionality was great. Stop at the beginning of the trail and unhook them while airing down, then hook them back up after the trail while airing up. Easy-peasy. I felt a little sad when my Rubicon buddies could do it from the comfort of their drivers seats, but it was never really a big deal.
 

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Aux switches in my opinion are worth getting as a factory option or not at all. After the fact, you lose the battery and accessory power leads in the cabin loom. This is handy for wiring up dash cams. After the fact, something like a trigger controller is a more feature rich option. Other switch controllers out there like rough country and spod.

8.4, I’m not sure what you may or may not lose out on. The HVAC controls are different between the two radio options.
I just got my truck and they couldn't find a matching color and setup like I was looking for so I settled on backup color. After getting all the stuff negotiated and settled on price I said you know I am having second thoughts. You didn't have my color, nor the soft top nor the aux switches I don't know. They wouldn't give me the soft top but they threw in the aux switches and installation no cost. So I guess I can figure out how to use them for something. I just really want to most likely hook up some additional lighting to them in the future
 

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Off Road Only’s SwayLoc is a great option as well.
 
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d k

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I would think you can actually get a little more articulation with the front sway bar completely disconnected vs. leaving the end links on?
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