Bear Hunter
Well-Known Member
I have the Jks and they work great. However, they take a bit of effort to disengage and I would love the apex ones. Just don't want to spend the money...
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When the linked side goes full droop and the unlinked side goes full tuck, you can jam the sway bar end into things. The Apex links work because whichever tire is tucking will push the bar upwards.Do disconnect the sway bar do you really need to do both sides?
Yeah i wasn't thrilled about cutting that mounting tab off either. But I did it anyway. I kept the tab in case i ever need to weld it back on for something like the Apex system. Nice job on the bushing.I have the JKS disconnects. I got them for $60 on Facebook marketplace. I would not have bought them otherwise. They require you to cut one of the passenger side brackets off your axle to work properly. I made a bushing so that I would not have to do that. and I have to unbolt the passenger side to disconnect. If you can afford it, buy the apex. looks a lot easier.
Or you can find a cheap Rubicon take off front sway bar and wire it in. There is also a device that you can buy to use the factory Rubicon sway bar manually.![]()
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I went this route except used the EVO manual solution on the Rubicon sway. It's a fully mechanical solution and requires no intrusive modification to any suspension or body parts in order to work. Reach under bumper, turn the knob and voila, fully disconnected. Takes 5 seconds. Lots of these Rubicon sways available on marketplace for under $300. Even a JK version will do the trick. I was all in on mine for $275 ($175 for takeoff and $100 for the EVO manual conversion)If you want to go the fancy route, source a rubicon take off and hook it up to air.
Thanks.Yeah i wasn't thrilled about cutting that mounting tab off either. But I did it anyway. I kept the tab in case i ever need to weld it back on for something like the Apex system. Nice job on the bushing.
Once you get to that price range, you might as well spend $650 on an Antirock.Just buy the Apex. There is no competition.
How do people buy a $50k Jeep and then shit themselves over $450 disconnects that drastically improve the vehicle performance offroad with ease...
People are weird.
. Then again MCs are like bit over $100 & my wrenches are free... how pain in the rear are those compared to other manual disconnects?You can’t get anything better than SDI eLink. I have their shocks, and am adding eLink to my RUBIJAVE as soon as I can.I'm pretty sold on picking up a '24 Mojave for the suspension since I spend the majority of my time on back road roads that are washboarded out. The only thing on the Rubicon I really want is the Front Sway Bar Disconnect. My current Jeep JK has a 2.5" Tera Flex lift kit with their Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects and I've really liked the functionality of them for the hand full of times each year I want them disconnected.
Any recommendations on aftermarket Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects that would work well with a Mojave or another non-Rubicon trim? I guess another question I should ask is can you even just install Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects on a stock Gladiator without any other suspension modifications?
Apex was the gold standard. SDI is changing the game forever.I'm pretty sold on picking up a '24 Mojave for the suspension since I spend the majority of my time on back road roads that are washboarded out. The only thing on the Rubicon I really want is the Front Sway Bar Disconnect. My current Jeep JK has a 2.5" Tera Flex lift kit with their Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects and I've really liked the functionality of them for the hand full of times each year I want them disconnected.
Any recommendations on aftermarket Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects that would work well with a Mojave or another non-Rubicon trim? I guess another question I should ask is can you even just install Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects on a stock Gladiator without any other suspension modifications?
That is a slick setup, but you have no sway bar when it's disconnected.You can’t get anything better than SDI eLink. I have their shocks, and am adding eLink to my RUBIJAVE as soon as I can.
That’s not how it works at all. It is connected unless you’re in an offroad mode, or are under 10mph on the road for speed bumps. It automatically connects instantly even offroad, above high speeds, or if you turn. It’s by far the safest setup, and most advanced period.That is a slick setup, but you have no sway bar when it's disconnected.
I think the ideal setup is a dual rate sway bar so you still have a soft sway bar for off road.
No sway bar, the body flops around. With a soft sway bar, you still get the articulation, but it's more controlled and the body remains more level above the axles.
It's either connected or disconnected isn't it?That’s not how it works at all. It is connected unless you’re in an offroad mode, or are under 10mph on the road for speed bumps. It automatically connects instantly even offroad, above high speeds, or if you turn. It’s by far the safest setup, and most advanced period.
No. It’s dynamic. In full offroad mode, it’s disconnected, unless it senses a sharp high speed turn. In desert mode, it stays disconnected at higher speeds, but instantly connects if a turn occurs.It's either connected or disconnected isn't it?
So in off road mode, it's entirely disconnected if I understand right?
Ok, so it will connect in off road mode with a high speed turn.No. It’s dynamic. In full offroad mode, it’s disconnected, unless it senses a sharp high speed turn. In desert mode, it stays disconnected at higher speeds, but instantly connects if a turn occurs.
in on road mode, it’s always connected, unless you’re down at parking lot and driveway speeds, I believe under 10mph. That allows you to smoothly go over speed bumps and severe driveway aprons in total comfort. These increase safety on and off road. Not the opposite.