They’re Still Trying To Sell My 2022 Diesel Rubicon

[Orange01z28]

It’s all subjective. Some people are comfortable flying at 1,800 MPH in a synthetic jet. Others are popping Valium’s to tolerate doing 65 in a Gladiator.

I love your username

I get new windshields so often I don't even usually get a chance to clean the inside

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[Cracked_Windshield]

You know ya’ll can still wave, right?

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

I love your username

I get new windshields so often I don't even usually get a chance to clean the inside

Thanks! I let the challenged folks call me CW, or just C if need be.

I’m saddened to hear that you’re breaking so many windshields. Mine on the F350 is back to being pretty angled, so hopefully it’ll deflect everything but the lobbed artillery.

But you gotta make lemonade out life’s lemons. I just tell myself, wow, I get to chat with the cute young guy in Safelite again.

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

In the news today is Exhibit A about what I was trying to convey. My Gladiator was okay, but it didn’t truly meet my needs, so this was a financial decision in a big way.

“For example, Stathas said in a recent sale sold his F250 with around 60,000 miles to the dealership and walked away with more than he originally paid.”

https://wusfnews.wusf.usf.edu/econo...onsumers-constrained-most-current-auto-market

I’ve done several car deals this year.

I paid $54,500 for my 2022 Scat Pack Challenger, put 6k miles on it and got $51,000 thousand when I traded it in for the Gladiator. The Challenger had also been in an accident. No tough negotiations for me to get the $51k.

The Gladiator was around $66k MSRP, $67k if you count the price increases on options from April 2022 when it was manufactured and July 2022 when I bought it. Everybody was trying to give me $48k for the Gladiator when I traded it with 10k miles, but after really brutal negotiations, I managed to get $55k. The Gladiator was mint when I traded it in.

And I‘ll repeat this again for the folks who haven’t read the entire thread. When I was shopping for a new vehicle in July, there was nothing on the lots without big MSRP markups except for Gladiators, which were being heavily discounted and readily available at every dealer. The CDJR were I bought mine had one $68k Wrangler 4xe Rubicon and it was sold. They had one RAM 2500 with a price jack.

Just sharing knowledge because folks do come in here and ask that question: “How much is my Gladiator worth if I want to trade it in?”

I showed you a real-world deal.

Meanwhile, there’s a STOP SALE” order on the 4xe’s. Ouch!

https://driving.ca/auto-news/driver-info/jeep-recalls-wrangler-4xe-over-potential-engine-shutdown

 

[briscoelab]

Wow… this thread. Honestly, didn’t make it though all the pages and know I shouldn’t reply…. But also somehow can’t resist joining the train wreck.


*****
You didn’t “manage to get $55k”. You got taken to the cleaners, becuase you paid over MSRP on the new vehicle. That’s no different than getting much less for your trade. The numbers work out the same either way.

It is VERY easy to figure out what your trade is worth in actual cash value. You NEVER assume what a trade is worth based on a trade allowance someone else was given during a car purchase. There is simply too many factors that can make that number meaningless (such is the case with your deal).

You get cash offers from multiple dealers in your area as a curb buy, you put your vin into a tool like on YAA website under “sell”. This gets you multiple offers for your zip code, that take into account area demand and recent wholesale auction data. You use this as leverage and negotiating when you discuss a trade at a dealership (and only every do that after you settle on the pricing of the car you a purchasing… they are two separate transactions).

For example, you effectively paid MSRP on the new truck and got much less for your trade. That’s why the dealer can still sell it for less money than they “gave you” for an allowance and still make thousands of dollars on the deal. All the while making a ton on the new vehicle you purchased, plus hold back, plus all the F&I money. None of that is a bad thing though, if you’re happy with that part of the deal.

However, it’s pretty clear you aren’t well informed how vehicle purchasing actually works. The above described points, plus you mentioning the dealer “jacking your rate up”, etc. No interest rate is EVER dependent on purchasing addons, etc. If a dealer presents it as such, that is illegal. It doesn’t mean they won’t try to say/do that. But it’s on you to call them out. This is why you should have secured financing going in. Then you at least know what rates you will qualify for and how much you can spend. If the dealer can beat your rate… then so be it. Tons of resources out there to get prequalified before going to a dealership.

I’m sorry you have been taken advantage of, but that’s exactly what’s happened.

Then all this BS about your insurance, etc. Ranting against USAA, which is by and large a really decent company (yes, still a company out to make money. But overall a good institution for lending and insurance). I mean, it’s not USAA’s fault they can’t give you insurance in a state they don’t operate in.

“Gang bangers”… not even going to touch that one… based on some stupid spray paint that others stated most certainly isn’t from the group you are alleging.

You really seem to think the world is against you/out to get you. Every post you’ve written reads that way, and is reinforced by your aggressiveness/attacking those pointing out when you are incorrect/calling your BS.

While I’m certain there is nothing substantial anyone can do over an internet chat board to help you or give you some reassurance, I wish there were. I’m actually sorry you feel this way.

In the end (on the vehicle side at least), if you are happy with the new vehicle… then that is what matters. On the other side of things, I hope you can find some peace, really.

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

Wow… this thread. Honestly, didn’t make it though all the pages and know I shouldn’t reply…. But also somehow can’t resist Joining the train wreck.


*****
You didn’t “manage to get $55k”. You got taken to the cleaners, becuase you paid over MSRP on the new vehicle. That’s no different than getting much less for your trade. The numbers work out the same either way.

It is VERY easy to figure out what your trade is worth in actual cash value. You NEVER assume what a trade is worth based on a trade allowance someone else was given during a car purchase. There is simply too many factors that can make that number meaningless (such is the case with your deal).

You get cash offers from multiple dealers in your area as a curb buy, you put your vin into a tool like on YAA website under “sell”. This gets you multiple offers for your zip code, that take into account area demand and recent wholesale auction data. You use this as leverage and negotiating when you discuss a trade at a dealership (and only every do that after you settle on the pricing of the car you a purchasing… they are two separate transactions).

For example, you effectively paid MSRP on the new truck and got much less for your trade. That’s why the dealer can still sell it for less money than they “gave you” for an allowance and still make thousands of dollars on the deal. All the while making a ton on the new vehicle you purchased, plus hold back, plus all the F&I money. None of that is a bad thing though, if you’re happy with that part of the deal.

However, it’s pretty clear you aren’t well informed how vehicle purchasing actually works. The above described points, plus you mentioning the dealer “jacking your rate up”, etc. No interest rate is EVER dependent on purchasing addons, etc. If a dealer presents it as such, that is illegal. It doesn’t mean they won’t try to say/do that. But it’s on you to call them out. This is why you should have secured financing going in. Then you at least know what rates you will qualify for and how much you can spend. If the dealer can beat your rate… then so be it. Tons of resources out there to get prequalified before going to a dealership.

I’m sorry you have been taken advantage of, but that’s exactly what’s happened.

Then all this BS about your insurance, etc. Ranting against USAA, which is by and large a really decent company (yes, still a company out to make money. But overall a good institution for lending and insurance). I mean, it’s not USAA’s fault they can’t give you insurance in a state they don’t operate in.

“Gang bangers”… not even going to touch that one… based on some stupid spray paint that others stated most certainly isn’t from the group you are alleging.

You really seem to think the world is against you/out to get you. Every post you’ve written reads that way, and is reinforced by your aggressiveness/attacking those pointing out when you are incorrect/calling your BS.

While I’m certain there is nothing substantial anyone can do over an internet chat board to help you or give you some reassurance, I wish there were. I’m actually sorry you feel this way.

In the end (on the vehicle side at least), if you are happy with the new vehicle… then that is what matters. On the other side of things, I hope you can find some peace, really.

After yet again attacking me, you do realize that KBB and the other online “cash value” websites wouldn’t give me a cash value on the Gladiator, right? I tried it with the VIN multiple times and multiple places.

It’s also quite interesting how you didn’t call out anyone but me for behavior in this thread. What’s up with that? Biased much?

 

[briscoelab]

This thread is wild. Like... I don't want to click it and come in here, but at the same time I do.
Quality entertainment for sure.

I even responded. Lol. Oops.

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

I even responded. Lol. Oops.

Who’s the one being disingenous, Briscoe?

It’s dropped $3k since I traded it.

KBB says I should have got $55k best scenario. I got $55k.

KBB previously said I could get as much as $58k when I was at the dealership.

 

[FitfulGoat]

Who’s the one being disingenous, Briscoe?

It’s dropped $3k since I traded it.

KBB says I should have got $55k best scenario. I got $55k.

KBB previously said I could get as much as $58k when I was at the dealership.

I thought KBB wouldn’t give you a value for the Jeep even with the VIN?

 

[briscoelab]

But I thought you couldn’t’ get the VIN to work on any site when you were trying to buy? Now you could and it said $58k? Interesting.

Anyway… most dealers don‘t care at all about the KBB pricing. That isn’t what determines what they will offer. Black book data on recent auctions, down to the zip and day you’re looking are what matter. I never mentioned using KBB to get your ACV. Although, sometimes you can get a KBB instant cash offer. But I never suggested that. That is mostly just a sales lead tool for dealers, as they then want you to bring it in to “verify” condition. Much better resources out there that poll actual wholesale data to give you the pricing.

Either way, you didn’t get $55k for your trade.

They could sell your trade for $10k less than they paid you on paper and still be in the money on the overall deal.

Again, myself (and I think most people on this thread) hope you are happy with the new vehicle.

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

I thought KBB wouldn’t give you a value for the Jeep even with the VIN?

Is that reading thing at work, again?

I said “cash purchase” value. As in they’ll find a dealer or party to buy it for cash. The dealer used that against me too.

And I’m gonna call all of you “we’re smart, you’re dumb” guys out on some other behavior. You’re not talking about the sales tax savings are you?

If I cash sold this thing, I would have had to pay sales tax on $78k at around 9%. What’s the math on that?

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

I thought KBB wouldn’t give you a value for the Jeep even with the VIN?

Are you unable to understand this sentence?

”you do realize that KBB and the other online “cash value” websites wouldn’t give me a cash value on the Gladiator, right?”

KBB did give me a value at trade in. It said a range of $53k to $58k with a recommend price of $55k..

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

The winter of 2014 in Pittsburgh my spouse cut two tires and broke one rim on a 2013 Subaru Impreza hitting water-filled potholes.
... I changed the tire myself while dressed in dinner attire, heels, etc.

Relationships being what they are these days who knows, but was your spouse at the time a man? Who let you change a tire?
I supposed he could've had a debilitating condition at the time.
Please forgive my intrusion for asking but inquiring minds would like to know.

 

[FitfulGoat]

Are you unable to understand this sentence?

”you do realize that KBB and the other online “cash value” websites wouldn’t give me a cash value on the Gladiator, right?”

KBB did give me a value at trade in. It said a range of $53k to $58k with a recommend price of $55k..

Thanks for clarifying!

 

[Cracked_Windshield]

Relationships being what they are these days who knows, but was your spouse at the time a man? Who let you change a tire?
I supposed he could've had a debilitating condition at the time.
Please forgive my intrusion for asking but inquiring minds would like to know.

My spouse is a female also, but we’re not lesbians, so please don’t pin that label on us. We’re both bisexual.

I served in the military, so I tend to handle the dirty jobs.

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