Think Im done with Jeep, guys.

[RoamingGladiator]

If one uses a wire wheel on a drill sand sandpaper why the converter ? Why not go to the primer and then paint.

The primer I buy from my local 4x4 shop is a converter/primer in one. Overkill I suppose!

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[ShadowsPapa]

The primer I buy from my local 4x4 shop is a converter/primer in one. Overkill I suppose!

Converter with primer isn't ideal, it's not going to allow the converter time to work and convert the rust.
Ideally the converter is applied, allowed to work, then 24 hours later, sealed with primer, or paint, etc.
The converter is based on tannic acid and complex organic polymers.
It reacts to form iron tannate (or ferric tannate) - an inert/stable substance.
Some also contain acids like phosphoric acid that additionally convert the oxide to a protective layer and lower the pH of the converter. Another ingredient is a glycol chemistry.
Tannic acid, and the converter in general, is typically water based. So having a paint/primer mixed with it doesn't make sense to me.

 

[biodiesel]

Every turbo I have had has issues with the turbo itself and heat and it's just tiresome.

I wouldn't be surprised if your dealer misdiagnosed the issue. A turbo failure on the EcoDiesel is extremely rare.

 

[biodiesel]

On the Cummins there was an actual amount of time stated as to how long to allow to cool down depending on how they were driven.

The EcoDiesel also specifies a cooldown time.

 

[AXISJT]

I wouldn't be surprised if your dealer misdiagnosed the issue. A turbo failure on the EcoDiesel is extremely rare.

I will post the service paperwork tomorrow

 

[RoamingGladiator]

Converter with primer isn't ideal, it's not going to allow the converter time to work and convert the rust.
Ideally the converter is applied, allowed to work, then 24 hours later, sealed with primer, or paint, etc.
The converter is based on tannic acid and complex organic polymers.
It reacts to form iron tannate (or ferric tannate) - an inert/stable substance.
Some also contain acids like phosphoric acid that additionally convert the oxide to a protective layer and lower the pH of the converter. Another ingredient is a glycol chemistry.
Tannic acid, and the converter in general, is typically water based. So having a paint/primer mixed with it doesn't make sense to me.

This is really interesting! Time to do some more research and change my method.

 

[DaveL]

All the danged pills hope this sounds right and my thoughts aren't too much worse than normal -

Approach one issue at a time. Get that turbo taken care of. Not a diesel owner, but have to agree with the comments on the REAL warranty (even shown here in writing) and the thoughts that maybe the shop isn't well equipped in people or equipment to deal with such things. Diesels are best left to those who have experience with them.
i'm a long-time mechanic and have done my share, having owned diesel farm equipment, there's a lot I'll do - but even more I won't do. I won't mess with a turbo. Anyone should know their limits and sometimes giving crazy high numbers and so on is one way of saying "we really don't want this job" - and it could be for any one of a multitude of reasons.

The death wobble is another item. Ironically, of the Jeeps that I and my brother have owned, we've never experienced any such thing on a Jeep - however my 95 F250 4x4 had a really nasty shake at times. Not true DW, but annoying and spooky. Not all Jeeps have it - and there's a reason your particular Jeep does.
There's tons of threads here on it (and frankly, even though some of the info is not great, some even wrong, the DW stuff here is far better than on any other Jeep forums I've looked at)

So one thing at a time.
I keep coming back to Jeep because of the great luck I've had. Over and over we keep buying Jeeps. Sure, we've had our share of problems, but every one of them that is actually a factory quality issue has been resolved, and normally quite quickly (well, except for the JLU transmission leak but then that's a different animal)

There may be reasons you need to bail out, could be timing, financial, work, family, whatever, but if you can hang in there or at least want to - one thing at a time.

The diesel guys here will have your back. They are pretty tight-knit group.

I used to be a lot braver than I am now. I learned not to work on automatic transmissions after putting in a shift kit in my S15 Jimmy. I'll check the fluid level (an issue with the S15 the dealer didn't sort out.)

I've learned to K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid.

Working on steering gear used to be easy. Old now; it ain't easy.

I have a lot of respect for good mechanics. And none for those that throw parts at a problem.

 

[DaveL]

I shot them a message so will see what happens

I'm really pleased they help. I chased the wandering in my '19 JLU for a year with a horrible dealer. "It's a Jeep Thing" should be "It's a Dealer Thing".

Have you ever encountered "Reynolds & Reynolds"? I'm told They sell hardware and software to dealers to maximize sales, profits, and minimize service cost. They want to send picky and costly customers to the dealer's competitor so they lose money.

 

[AXISJT]

I'm really pleased they help. I chased the wandering in my '19 JLU for a year with a horrible dealer. "It's a Jeep Thing" should be "It's a Dealer Thing".

Have you ever encountered "Reynolds & Reynolds"? I'm told They sell hardware and software to dealers to maximize sales, profits, and minimize service cost. They want to send picky and costly customers to the dealer's competitor so they lose money.

Jeeps cares hasn't helped yet they just asked for my VIN and in the next message if I had the truck in my possession. So hopefully they respond today with some answers since it's been 3 days. I have not heard of Reynolds and Reynolds

 

[BearFootSam]

I Have had a Jeep since I was 18 I'm 33 now and as much as I love them and the community I think I am finally past that point of dealing with the issues and ready to move on. Since way back with my TJ I have always dealt with constant death wobble problems, tried plenty of different shops, and it was never solved. In 2021 I moved to my gladiator and a year later I was having the same issues, Finally fixed it with a quality lift but it just came back new tires, 2.5-ton steering, and new ball joints etc, always came back after constantly throwing money at it. Now last Saturday I was on the Highway, and the Jeep threw a bunch of electrical warnings and went into limp mode, I was able to counter it by switching into manual mode but it stopped letting me shift as soon as I hit an incline. I made it home and booked a service appointment first thing Monday.

They tell me it throws a code P00AF-00 which has to do with the Turbo assembly so I assume It is under the 100k powertrain warranty and so does my service guy. He calls me back and says it keeps telling him the turbos not covered but he will keep looking into it. He called me back today and said it is because the turbo falls under the federal emissions warranty but not the 80k one they advertise, the 70k warranty that I didn't even know existed so since Im at 72k guess I'm shit out of luck and they say it will cost 5k to fix.

After today I think I'm just done with the issues, I'm not forking over 5k for this. so think I may just go trade the jeep in ASAP for something else, don't know if I'll get in a Steliantis vehicle again at least for a while.

Sorry for the rant. Frustrated about the whole situation just wanted to get it out with folks who delt with the same.

Did you get the attention you were seeking?

 

[RoamingGladiator]

Did you get the attention you were seeking?

Mneh, don't think his post was entirely going after attention. Just a way to ask for help, and thankfully those with some warranty knowledge pointed him in the right direction. Including a literal sentence from the warranty that says his turbo is covered under powertrain.

Hopefully it works out for him! Though I have zero faith in @JeepCares, as we all know they do not, and yet we all continue to buy Jeeps ? It's an addiction.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

thankfully those with some warranty knowledge pointed him in the right direction. Including a literal sentence from the warranty that says his turbo is covered under powertrain.

Yup.

 

[Scott0700]

Looks like they dragged it through the ocean on the way to the dealer.
I NHOU undercoated mine before its first winter and it still looks like new. But yours didn’t look new when it was new. I’d be upset as well if that was mine.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

#4 is nothing and common. Treat with converter and use chassis paint. We get that sort of thing hitting the packed snow from plows around here.

Some of the rest looks like it was literally sitting in flood waters near the ocean.

Looks like they dragged it through the ocean on the way to the dealer.

That's absolutely something goofy - it does look like it's been damaged in a flood. I'd not even accept one that had that much rust on those areas. Some of it - yeah, I get and isn't really abnormal for trucks untreated, some of that, though, is not normal rust damage.
Looks like salt or chemical damage for sure - it's not normal by any stretch, only #4 is what I call just par for the course on a truck these days.

This isn't normal Jeep - this is absolutely abnormal. It's not factory in any way. I'd say storage or shipping damage, even chemical damage.
It's not the normal surface rust that forms on bare steel - it's too rough for that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If the rust can occurred with this brand new truck, what do you think 5 years of ownership and residing in humid gulf states close to the sea?

You think i am lying and bashing Jeep eh?

That's not Jeep damage or a Jeep issue, that's totally abnormal. No Jeep would come from the factory that way. I'd wonder how and where it was shipped and stored between you and Toledo, Ohio. I can't see blaming Jeep. That's chemical or salt damage, it's not factory, it didn't leave the plant that way.

Still, I'd not blame Jeep - I'd blame someone outside of Toledo. That's so abnormal it's almost indescribable. It's NOT a Jeep thing.

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