Track bar bar geo bracket - FRONT

[JT1]

From conversations with teraflex their rear geo brackets design idea is to help keep pinion angles low when the axle is fully drooped. But I cant seem to find much real world experience with this to see if the function meets the design idea. Not necessary at all but if it increases ride comfort I would be interested

No actual experience with them, but I haven't seen a need in the wheeling I do.
Jumping dunes would be the only time I've ever seen the entire rear axle in full droop.
The rest of the time one is stuffed and the other is extended.

Sponsored

 

[RodRecket]

I have a AEV JT370. Obviously, that means AEV lift and 37s. I have noticed the axle is shifted 1.25" to the driver. To fine tune centering the axle an adjustable track bar is going to get you more centered than a bracket could. I, like you, did not want johnny joints. I wanted an adjustable front track bar with bushings that did not require greasing and though may be slightly more limited on the rocks was smooth on road. I initially was going with synergy but found their bar required shaving the factory bracket down which was a no go. I ultimately decided on Rancho. It's affordable, no maintenance, and they advertise NVH reducing joints.

I conjunction, I am relocating the steering stabilizer. I find currie rock jock relocation mount with the corresponding tie rod mount to be the most secure and straight forward way to do it.

This is my 2nd JT. I feel I learned quite a bit after building my Sport and for a vehicle that gets wheeled but needs to be a daily driver first it is the best combination for me.

Here are the parts I bought (its the install instructions for each part), I'm installing them all tomorrow and will report back:

https://www.gorancho.com/downloads/...stallation_Instructions_For_RS62128_Rev_A.pdf

https://www.gorancho.com/downloads/...stallation_Instructions_For_RS62133_Rev_A.pdf

https://1244669.secure.netsuite.com/c.1244669/Documents/JT/RJ-441105-101.pdf

https://1244669.secure.netsuite.com/c.1244669/Documents/JT/RJ-441102-101.pdf

EDIT: I'll add that Rockjock also has a rear control arm relocation bracket that I am eyeing up. The reason I'd choose the RJ over TF is simply because it does not require drilling anything out. It's a very simple design.

 

[Camaroboi13]

You are right that a properly setup front end shouldn't require a stabilizer.
Isn't it odd that Jeep just replaces them willy nilly when you say front end vibration or death wobble.

Like I said, the drag link, tie rod and track bar aren't up to the task of locating the front axle on these things, straight from the factory.

Not quite sure to be honest, I’ve never experienced front end vibration or death wobble in any of my last 5 Jeeps ?‍

 

[JT1]

I have a AEV JT370. Obviously, that means AEV lift and 37s. I have noticed the axle is shifted 1.25" to the driver. To fine tune centering the axle an adjustable track bar is going to get you more centered than a bracket could. I, like you, did not want johnny joints. I wanted an adjustable front track bar with bushings that did not require greasing and though may be slightly more limited on the rocks was smooth on road. I initially was going with synergy but found their bar required shaving the factory bracket down which was a no go. I ultimately decided on Rancho. It's affordable, no maintenance, and they advertise NVH reducing joints.

I conjunction, I am relocating the steering stabilizer. I find currie rock jock relocation mount with the corresponding tie rod mount to be the most secure and straight forward way to do it.

This is my 2nd JT. I feel I learned quite a bit after building my Sport and for a vehicle that gets wheeled but needs to be a daily driver first it is the best combination for me.

Here are the parts I bought (its the install instructions for each part), I'm installing them all tomorrow and will report back:

https://www.gorancho.com/downloads/...stallation_Instructions_For_RS62128_Rev_A.pdf

https://www.gorancho.com/downloads/...stallation_Instructions_For_RS62133_Rev_A.pdf

https://1244669.secure.netsuite.com/c.1244669/Documents/JT/RJ-441105-101.pdf

https://1244669.secure.netsuite.com/c.1244669/Documents/JT/RJ-441102-101.pdf

EDIT: I'll add that Rockjock also has a rear control arm relocation bracket that I am eyeing up. The reason I'd choose the RJ over TF is simply because it does not require drilling anything out. It's a very simple design.

That's a slick way of adding limiting straps to the rear.

 

[chorky]

No actual experience with them, but I haven't seen a need in the wheeling I do.
Jumping dunes would be the only time I've ever seen the entire rear axle in full droop.
The rest of the time one is stuffed and the other is extended.

Yeah I dont do anything anywhere near that. The rubicon trail is a bucket list item that honestly I will probably never be able to have time for. My 90% just does not warrant the Extensive items in a clayton or other lift. If it did I would get one hands down but after having the killer rock jock in my TJ I realized that as cool as it is it is entirely not needed and probably 2 or 3 times the cost of what I could have gotten. So trying to be more realistic with my use case this time. If I do end up on the rubicon, Im sure a “lesser” lift will still work with a bit more fuss.

I have a AEV JT370. Obviously, that means AEV lift and 37s. I have noticed the axle is shifted 1.25" to the driver. To fine tune centering the axle an adjustable track bar is going to get you more centered than a bracket could. I, like you, did not want johnny joints. I wanted an adjustable front track bar with bushings that did not require greasing and though may be slightly more limited on the rocks was smooth on road. I initially was going with synergy but found their bar required shaving the factory bracket down which was a no go. I ultimately decided on Rancho. It's affordable, no maintenance, and they advertise NVH reducing joints.

I conjunction, I am relocating the steering stabilizer. I find currie rock jock relocation mount with the corresponding tie rod mount to be the most secure and straight forward way to do it.

This is my 2nd JT. I feel I learned quite a bit after building my Sport and for a vehicle that gets wheeled but needs to be a daily driver first it is the best combination for me.

Here are the parts I bought (its the install instructions for each part), I'm installing them all tomorrow and will report back:

https://www.gorancho.com/downloads/...stallation_Instructions_For_RS62128_Rev_A.pdf

https://www.gorancho.com/downloads/...stallation_Instructions_For_RS62133_Rev_A.pdf

https://1244669.secure.netsuite.com/c.1244669/Documents/JT/RJ-441105-101.pdf

https://1244669.secure.netsuite.com/c.1244669/Documents/JT/RJ-441102-101.pdf

EDIT: I'll add that Rockjock also has a rear control arm relocation bracket that I am eyeing up. The reason I'd choose the RJ over TF is simply because it does not require drilling anything out. It's a very simple design.

Thus is helpful thank you. Yeah I figured a bracket is never as good as an adjustable component but seeing as how AEV and others include a rear bracket, if a front one existed it would only make sense. But maybe not in this case.

Good catch I forgot about the rock jock rear brackets! There was a reason I passed on them but now cant remember

I still have probably 3 months before settling and purchasing appropriate items but hoping to have it all nailed down next month.

 

[JT1]

Yeah I dont do anything anywhere near that. The rubicon trail is a bucket list item that honestly I will probably never be able to have time for. My 90% just does not warrant the Extensive items in a clayton or other lift. If it did I would get one hands down but after having the killer rock jock in my TJ I realized that as cool as it is it is entirely not needed and probably 2 or 3 times the cost of what I could have gotten. So trying to be more realistic with my use case this time. If I do end up on the rubicon, Im sure a “lesser” lift will still work with a bit more fuss.




Thus is helpful thank you. Yeah I figured a bracket is never as good as an adjustable component but seeing as how AEV and others include a rear bracket, if a front one existed it would only make sense. But maybe not in this case.

Good catch I forgot about the rock jock rear brackets! There was a reason I passed on them but now cant remember

I still have probably 3 months before settling and purchasing appropriate items but hoping to have it all nailed down next month.

Chorky, what size tire are you ultimately going to run?

 

[chorky]

Chorky, what size tire are you ultimately going to run?

35 is the plan, which I can fit stock as I have the rubicon. I am broken vet so lifting a heavier 37 or fighting to find ways to mount it or getting into a super tall vehicle are not interesting to me anymore as its very difficult - and Im also short lol. I also have a rear winch bumper soI doubt a 37 could fit with a winch in the back anyway.

 

[JT1]

35 is the plan, which I can fit stock as I have the rubicon. I am broken vet so lifting a heavier 37 or fighting to find ways to mount it or getting into a super tall vehicle are not interesting to me anymore as its very difficult - and Im also short lol. I also have a rear winch bumper soI doubt a 37 could fit with a winch in the back anyway.

Completely understand that sentiment.. rotating 37's is an exercise for sure.

Just throwing out an idea, but if you aren't trying to fit a huge tire, how about a set of max tow rear springs, Clayton 1.5" front coils, Mopar LCAs, a set of whichever shocks you like and a new front trackbar if you need it (not sure you will at that height, but knowing you might prevents frustration)

That should give you the stiffer springs you are after, a little bit of extra belly height, room for 35's and should come out pretty cheap.

 

[chorky]

My understanding was the max tow springs were shorter than the rubicon springs.

I do want a little lift. Maybe 2-3 since it varies depending on load. Thus far, with adding estimated weights up I will be maxing out the GVW crazy as that sounds. canopy, tent, fridge already puts me at almost 400 pounds. Crazy how heavy stuff is. I was mostly looking at AEV for the spring weight rating not so much lift height. And I have seen some concerning discussions around dobinson springs flaking and rusting badly at less than a years time.

But that is a consideration to explore more. I would like to keep the factory rake as well.

 

[JT1]

My understanding was the max tow springs were shorter than the rubicon springs.

I do want a little lift. Maybe 2-3 since it varies depending on load. Thus far, with adding estimated weights up I will be maxing out the GVW crazy as that sounds. canopy, tent, fridge already puts me at almost 400 pounds. Crazy how heavy stuff is. I was mostly looking at AEV for the spring weight rating not so much lift height. And I have seen some concerning discussions around dobinson springs flaking and rusting badly at less than a years time.

But that is a consideration to explore more. I would like to keep the factory rake as well.

The max tow springs are shorter free length, but I think @ShadowsPapa used them on his overland because they were considerably stiffer, and did lift the rear of his truck.

I'm guessing Montana and Oklahoma are similar in that there isn't some government official that's going to come out of the woodwork and run you over a scale, but running over GVW for extended periods does have it's own risks.

 

[chorky]

The max tow springs are shorter free length, but I think @ShadowsPapa used them on his overland because they were considerably stiffer, and did lift the rear of his truck.

I'm guessing Montana and Oklahoma are similar in that there isn't some government official that's going to come out of the woodwork and run you over a scale, but running over GVW for extended periods does have it's own risks.

No state inspections or scales for non commercial vehicles here. I am working hard to stay under GVWR. But I also have come to the conclusion that nobody who is going camping with a family of 2 or 3 will ever be under GVWR in a Gladiator even without a RTT and or canopy. But yes, it does have consequences so Im doing my best to stay light.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Yeah I dont do anything anywhere near that. The rubicon trail is a bucket list item that honestly I will probably never be able to have time for. My 90% just does not warrant the Extensive items in a clayton or other lift...

The Clayton 2.5" Ride Right is pretty basic and only includes what I consider the essentials for a good driving rig on the road.

 

[chorky]

The Clayton 2.5" Ride Right is pretty basic and only includes what I consider the essentials for a good driving rig on the road.

I am not really interested in the clayton kit. I just dont want to deal with adjustable arms right now. Adjustable track bars would be acceptable though.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The max tow springs are shorter free length, but I think @ShadowsPapa used them on his overland because they were considerably stiffer, and did lift the rear of his truck.

I'm guessing Montana and Oklahoma are similar in that there isn't some government official that's going to come out of the woodwork and run you over a scale, but running over GVW for extended periods does have it's own risks.

They ended up not lifting.
The difference was they didn't compress like the stock Overland springs. The truck settled to the same height in the rear, it just didn't "sag" as badly with a load.
That shows the difference in rates...........

 

[chorky]

They ended up not lifting.
The difference was they didn't compress like the stock Overland springs. The truck settled to the same height in the rear, it just didn't "sag" as badly with a load.
That shows the difference in rates...........

Figured as much, which is why I didnt' really look too far into it.

Sponsored