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Under seat sub box built (pic heavy)

Moe_Fugga

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I'm running kicker 6.5 components in both locations
Do they hook up to the existing wiring or do you have to run new wiring? Sorry for the questions. I’m an audio installation noob!
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BigRed97

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If you're changing to 6.5s youre going to want to run your own amp, not run them directly from the head unit (or factory amp if equipped) so you would need to run new speaker wire. (There are ways to reuse the stock wiring but at this point, with any decent speakers & amp, you're going to be over power carrying limits of the stock wiring)

I'm by no means an audio expert, this is basic stuff.
I'd recommend you have a local stereo shop set you up
 

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If you're changing to 6.5s youre going to want to run your own amp, not run them directly from the head unit (or factory amp if equipped) so you would need to run new speaker wire. (There are ways to reuse the stock wiring but at this point, with any decent speakers & amp, you're going to be over power carrying limits of the stock wiring)

I'm by no means an audio expert, this is basic stuff.
I'd recommend you have a local stereo shop set you up
Yeah I’m thinking about having a shop do it too haha Thanks!
 

Scorp702

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Don't judge to harshly. This was my first time building a sub box, or really anything out of wood(I much prefer metal). It took me way longer than I expected and didn't come out 100% perfect but I think it's good enough.

Built from 3/4 mdf, houses 2 kicker L7T 8" (800w RMS total). Internal seams sealed with silicone caulk. Outside coated in raptor liner.
Wow that is a sweet looking box! The rounded corners make it look like it belongs under the seat. Nice work. I'm building my system right now and in search for a sub box. I have the Alpine system so that OEM sub will be coming out. I want to go behind the seat so bad but that's going to be a task as it is super tight back there. Might be looking at a fiberglass custom box but if the price gets out of hand I may just have to give up my under seat storage for a box under the seat.
 

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Looks good Can you explain how you have this wired. Looks as if you have the sound bar and fronts powered through the amp. I want to do the same but not sure what wires to tap into. also did you have the premium or standard system.
Iv'e been an audio fan since I was in my teens. Aftermarket everything but with these newer radios it is getting hard to add amps and speakers if you are planning on keeping your OEM radio. I have the 8.4, sound is alright but these radios are limited, the higher the volume the system limits the sound to protect the speakers and the OEM amp. If you plan on adding and amp and a sub only to your OEM radio its pretty easy. An LOC (line out converter) will do the trick. Just tap into the soundbar speakers.

If you are looking to replace the rest of the speakers to run them off of an amp then it gets way more complex. You will need a DSP like the JL Fix86 or a PAC Pro to flatten out the EQ coming from the radio. You will also need to add resistors to the head unit to "trick" the Uconnect system that there is still speakers there otherwise it shuts down that channel and does not send any audio to it. The radio receives an electrical signal from each speaker which is what gives it sound, when you disconnect that speaker to run it off of an amp for example the Uconnect system thinks something is wrong so it shuts down that specific speaker location if that makes sense. Like I said these newer radios are tricky.

I haven't done my system yet as I am still piecing it together but I am keeping my stock head unit, adding a couple 10" subs, 6-1/2" components in the SB using the SSV adapters, 6-1/2" components in the Knee Panels using the Metra Pod Adapters and some 2 Way speakers in the upper dash all running off of a 5 channel JL VX1000/5i and a JL Fix86. I am still researching the resistor angle but I am trying to see if any of the audio companies make a T harness that I can plug into the OEM wiring with everything I need already built in to get around the Uconnect issue. Sorry for the long post there is just so much to cover on these damn radios lol.
 

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BigRed97

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Iv'e been an audio fan since I was in my teens. Aftermarket everything but with these newer radios it is getting hard to add amps and speakers if you are planning on keeping your OEM radio. I have the 8.4, sound is alright but these radios are limited, the higher the volume the system limits the sound to protect the speakers and the OEM amp. If you plan on adding and amp and a sub only to your OEM radio its pretty easy. An LOC (line out converter) will do the trick. Just tap into the soundbar speakers.

If you are looking to replace the rest of the speakers to run them off of an amp then it gets way more complex. You will need a DSP like the JL Fix86 or a PAC Pro to flatten out the EQ coming from the radio. You will also need to add resistors to the head unit to "trick" the Uconnect system that there is still speakers there otherwise it shuts down that channel and does not send any audio to it. The radio receives an electrical signal from each speaker which is what gives it sound, when you disconnect that speaker to run it off of an amp for example the Uconnect system thinks something is wrong so it shuts down that specific speaker location if that makes sense. Like I said these newer radios are tricky.

I haven't done my system yet as I am still piecing it together but I am keeping my stock head unit, adding a couple 10" subs, 6-1/2" components in the SB using the SSV adapters, 6-1/2" components in the Knee Panels using the Metra Pod Adapters and some 2 Way speakers in the upper dash all running off of a 5 channel JL VX1000/5i and a JL Fix86. I am still researching the resistor angle but I am trying to see if any of the audio companies make a T harness that I can plug into the OEM wiring with everything I need already built in to get around the Uconnect issue. Sorry for the long post there is just so much to cover on these damn radios lol.
Maybe I'm not understanding correctly but I don't think that is true about the resistors. Before I had the IA head unit I ran the stock uconnect through a PAC amp pro(plug&play to gain RCA outputs) to my own amp and speakers. Never had any issues. Unless the amp pro does the same thing as you described with resistors....but in that case why go through the hassle of adding resistors and LOCs when the ampro does it all in 1
 

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Maybe I'm not understanding correctly but I don't think that is true about the resistors. Before I had the IA head unit I ran the stock uconnect through a PAC amp pro(plug&play to gain RCA outputs) to my own amp and speakers. Never had any issues. Unless the amp pro does the same thing as you described with resistors....but in that case why go through the hassle of adding resistors and LOCs when the ampro does it all in 1
Sorry I should have been more specific. Yes the 2nd version of the Pac Amp Pro R2 does this It's just an expensive option($350) compared to using a standard LOC and wiring in some resistors. I looked at the Pac but decided to use my old Fix86 instead. The Pac does a good job of leveling the output but it converts it to low level RCA where as the Fix converts it to high level output. Combine the Fix with an amp with built in DSP like the JL VX series amps and you get some serious tuning power.
 
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BigRed97

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Sorry I should have been more specific. Yes the 2nd version of the Pac Amp Pro R2 does this It's just an expensive option($350) compared to using a standard LOC and wiring in some resistors. I looked at the Pac but decided to use my old Fix86 instead. The Pac does a good job of leveling the output but it converts it to low level RCA where as the Fix converts it to high level output. Combine the Fix with an amp with built in DSP like the JL VX series amps and you get some serious tuning power.
Gotcha!

That's definitely a little more in depth than my minimal experience understands.

EDIT** Also the PAC (R2 Version) can be had around $250-280 if you shop around, in case some one wants to go that route
 

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Just fyi. The stock non Alpine speakers are parallel. If you change the 3.5" ones the others will have much less output which is the opposite of what I thought with lowering resistance. But this causes the 3.5" to get all of the power. I guess because it has the least resistance in the loop then. Just something I noticed by upgrading the dash speakers. What a weird configuration.
 

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I have replaced the entire sounds system, I didn't tap into any existing wires.

Running Insane Audios head unit, hifonics 4ch amp to kicker components in the dash and sound bar(100w RMS per channel)

This sounds like what I’d like to do. I don’t know anything about sound systems but I noticed that there are three pairs of speakers in the Jeep and two tweeters. Does this mean that the ideal setup would be a 6 channel amp?
Does the insane audio units sound settings transfer to the speakers? I noticed some amps have some sort of link where you adjust them with an amp and I don’t want to do that.

Someone posted a 10” ported sub enclosure above I’d be fine with that one but I don’t know RMS needed or any of that stuff

Is this something I can do myself if I get the right tools being a complete novice or should I use an audio shop?

I’d like to keep this to about $2500 which is what it would cost to get the 8.4/premium audio . $1300 for the head unit and $200 for that box leaves about $1000 for parts
 

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BigRed97

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The angle iron (its way over kill, but what I had on hand) is drilled and place over the factory studs that hold down the lower cargo tray(removed) then just fender washers and 2 nuts
The PVC board is bolted to 2 peices of flat stock that I welded to the angle iron.

This bracket is way more than needed for an amp rack, but I previously had a powered sub woofer installed in this location and that was much heavier
 

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Good job! Box design reminds me of something I saw on the Car Audio Fabrication YouTube channel. I’ve been planning on putting amps under each front seat but maybe I’ll have another look behind the back seats.
 
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BigRed97

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Good job! Box design reminds me of something I saw on the Car Audio Fabrication YouTube channel. I’ve been planning on putting amps under each front seat but maybe I’ll have another look behind the back seats.
That's where I got the idea!
I was thinking of under the front seats as well but I thought there would be a better chance of them getting wet or kicked there
 

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That's where I got the idea!
I was thinking of under the front seats as well but I thought there would be a better chance of them getting wet or kicked there
Im going all JL Audio, with VX series amps under each front seat and their new stealth box, one it arrives. Currently on back order.
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