WaxOyl?? Have any of you used it?

[dcmdon]

Hi all.

I'm worried that the New England winters will cause corrosion problems on my Jeep. I intend to keep my Gladiator for a long time and it seems that most of the Jeeps around here have significant rust problems within 10 years.

A friend with a JK recently sent his 2011 Jeep out to MoTec to get a Chevy LT1 installed and they ended up replacing the frame because it was corroded so bad.

I'm familiar with the problems of WaxOyl actually CAUSING rust back in the 90s because installers would clog drain holes in body panels. My interest is primarily as an undercoating and shooting it inside the frame. I wouldn't have then install it inside any body panels. (especially pointless on the doors since they are aluminum)

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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[just_another_guy]

Personally, I don't want any undercoating that dries to a hard finish because it can trap moisture under it and cause rust instead of preventing it. I use woolwax, which is a very thick oil-based coating. The downside to products like woolwax is that they need to be touched up every year since they can slowly wash off, and it makes an absolute mess on your hands if you need to work on the underside of your truck afterwards.

 

[Rusty PW]

I sprayed the inside of my frame with 3M Cavity Wax.

 

[@californiajeeping]

wool wax is pretty much the best fyi.

 

[chorky]

Cavity wax on the inside of the frame and body areas - 6 cans needed at a minimum for one coat, 12 would be better to do 2 coats

amsoil hd metal protect on the frame exterior and underside of the body - 12 cans needed for 2 full coats

 

[dcmdon]

Personally, I don't want any undercoating that dries to a hard finish because it can trap moisture under it and cause rust instead of preventing it. I use woolwax, which is a very thick oil-based coating. The downside to products like woolwax is that they need to be touched up every year since they can slowly wash off, and it makes an absolute mess on your hands if you need to work on the underside of your truck afterwards.

WaxOyl does not dry to a hard finish. It's a wax that is thinned with a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the wax is left behind.

Also, I'd not bring it in if there was any chance of water on it. At this point in time, my Jeep hasn't been driven in the rain in over 2 weeks.

I've got some CRC corrosion inhibitor, 6 cans. I did a bunch of the frame and am working my way forwards. But I saw that a local shop did WaxOyl and thought maybe have them shoot the whole underside including inside the frame.

 

[Sailscall]

I use Krown Rust Control. You can buy it in a rattle can or take it to a shop.

 

[just_another_guy]

WaxOyl does not dry to a hard finish. It's a wax that is thinned with a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the wax is left behind.

Also, I'd not bring it in if there was any chance of water on it. At this point in time, my Jeep hasn't been driven in the rain in over 2 weeks.

I've got some CRC corrosion inhibitor, 6 cans. I did a bunch of the frame and am working my way forwards. But I saw that a local shop did WaxOyl and thought maybe have them shoot the whole underside including inside the frame.

They named their undercoating "hardwax" so I'm guessing it dries to a hard finish. I've never used the stuff so maybe it's great, I would just worry that anywhere it lifts off the metal will trap moisture.

 

[dcmdon]

They named their undercoating "hardwax" so I'm guessing it dries to a hard finish. I've never used the stuff so maybe it's great, I would just worry that anywhere it lifts off the metal will trap moisture.

I get it. It's more like a cosmoline substitute.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

 

[jac04]

Waxoyl is very popular among Land Rover enthusiasts. They make different products depending on where you want to use it. The Hardwax is not a 'hard' coating, but it is relatively hard for a wax product, and it goes on fairly thick from the applications I have seen in person.

Waxoyl states to use their 120-4 product inside cavities. This leads me to believe that the Hardwax doesn't stay fluid for long enough to creep & penetrate before it sets up to a firm coating. So, it might not be good for use inside the frame.

I also see that NHOU is selling a product called "Boss Wax" that appears to be similar to Waxoyl's Hardwax. https://nhoilundercoating.com/product/boss-wax/
However, NHOU says to apply it to exterior surfaces, but then use their oil-based undercoating on internal frame areas. I assume this is because the Boss Wax doesn't creep well enough before curing to ensure full protection.

I ended up using the 3M Cavity Wax inside my frame, applied using the 3M wand kit. This was after a bunch of research and wanting a DIY solution. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/cavity-wax-plus/

I use the CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor for a lot of applications on my fleet of vehicles and I really like it. https://www.crcindustries.com/products/heavy-duty-corrosion-inhibitor-10-wt-oz.html
I use it on exterior hardware, and spray it into seams & joints. Because it is very low viscosity when it sprays, it seeps into seams and joints, then sets up firm.

One of my favorite applications for CRC HDCI is on brake calipers & caliper brackets. Spray it into a cup, then brush it onto the plated brake caliper & bracket with a foam brush or small sponge. Make sure to get the bleed screw, especially where it screws into the caliper. It will keep the calipers looking like new for quite a while. I apply it once a year at snow tire changeover time.

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