What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[WILDHOBO]

Me and PB are best Bro's

Same. Except when it fails me. Then dead to me.

Sponsored

 

[Proximo]

Installed the Goose 60% seat delete. I wanted to keep the tray under the other side, so just cut it and re-installed it.

What's in the box? Brad Pitt asked

 

[Hootbro]

Welp, dielectric grease on the FAD plug didn't fix the service 4x4 light

Dielectric grease when it comes to electrical connectors and contacts is meant to prevent problems acting as a moisture barrier to prevent corrosion in the first place and relies on clean contacts to begin with for a friction fit to make electrical contact. It does not fix problems of already corroded or loose fit of contacts and will actually make them less conductive.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Dielectric grease when it comes to electrical connectors and contacts is meant to prevent problems acting as a moisture barrier to prevent corrosion in the first place and relies on clean contacts to begin with for a friction fit to make electrical contact. It does not fix problems of already corroded or loose fit of contacts and will actually make them less conductive.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Trying to figure out how I'm setting this all up... JCR molle rack. ICOM IC-2730b body mounted in glove box, head on the rack with a SP-35 speaker. Wolfbox G-whatever-it-is that fits between the mirrors. Modding the mic to take a magnetic mount I'll put on the rack further back between the seats. Compactenna LMR-1 between the cab and RTT and running wire for some Baja Designs rear facing dust lights while I'm at it.

Wiring is satisfying but it's also just so fucking tedious to do it right.


Also got a new bypass valve for my TJ's supercharger. Finally got some boost again!

Took a break from the wiring and interior stuff to revamp the rack.

Swapped out steel top rails and steel side panels with Rebel's new aluminum ones I got from @JTdiRtyD. Also lost the cross bar mounting system, aligned the rack rails with the longitudinal rails on the bottom of the ikamper and cut some 3/8" spacers out of aluminum plate to set it just high enough to clear the carriage bolts that hold the rack together. Bolted down in 8 places with threaded square nuts in the ikamper. I had the tire spaced down an extra inch because the wheel was rubbing the spare winch but with the 40s and extra 1" width of the tire I was able to lose the spacers and get back an inch of space in the bed.

So, lowered the RTT by an inch and raised the spare by an inch, and lost probably a hundred pounds.

Also being very conscious of outside clearance. I run this Jeep down trails much tighter than I really should. If anything had been mounted outside of the rack on my last trip it would have been ripped off.

So the next challenge is to mount an extinguisher, propane tank, two dust lights, a rear facing camera, and two 5 gallon rotopax water cans all on the inside of the rack off the floor and accessible from the rear without having to crawl into the bed. Will be a tight fit.

 

[Hootbro]

Installed MOPAR lift kit extended length front lower control arms and a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks that replaced the Rubicon ones I was running previously.

Have about 10 miles of road use with them today and have not formed a solid opinion of the shocks yet vs. the Rubicon ones. Does not seem as stiff as many say they usually are but I do feel the road expansion joints a bit more.

 

[Stan H]

Installed MOPAR lift kit extended length front lower control arms and a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks that replaced the Rubicon ones I was running previously.

Have about 10 miles of road use with them today and have not formed a solid opinion of the shocks yet vs. the Rubicon ones. Does not seem as stiff as many say they usually are but I do feel the road expansion joints a bit more.

I just ordered new rotors .. but dangit now ya got me wanting to wire brush and paint my axles this site is gonna be the death of me

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Dielectric grease when it comes to electrical connectors and contacts is meant to prevent problems acting as a moisture barrier to prevent corrosion in the first place and relies on clean contacts to begin with for a friction fit to make electrical contact. It does not fix problems of already corroded or loose fit of contacts and will actually make them less conductive.

I know. Connectors were cleaned out, pins looked ok, at least the male pins. The seals look pretty dry though, especially on the rear locker plug and it had a tiny amount of water in it. Air em out, cleaned dirt off, greased everything (around edges, not the contacts themselves), made sure they were clipped tight. Test drive was fine but its also not raining, but should be wet tomorrow again so we will see.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I just ordered new rotors .. but dangit now ya got me wanting to wire brush and paint my axles this site is gonna be the death of me

It certainly has for me.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I know. Connectors were cleaned out, pins looked ok, at least the male pins. The seals look pretty dry though, especially on the rear locker plug and it had a tiny amount of water in it. Air em out, cleaned dirt off, greased everything (around edges, not the contacts themselves), made sure they were clipped tight. Test drive was fine but its also not raining, but should be wet tomorrow again so we will see.

I hope you licked it.

 

[Shibbyjeep]

Installed MOPAR lift kit extended length front lower control arms and a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks that replaced the Rubicon ones I was running previously.

Have about 10 miles of road use with them today and have not formed a solid opinion of the shocks yet vs. the Rubicon ones. Does not seem as stiff as many say they usually are but I do feel the road expansion joints a bit more.

Just the LCAs and shocks? Whats about the lift portion of the lift kit? Lol

 

[Hootbro]

Just the LCAs and shocks? Whats about the lift portion of the lift kit? Lol

Yeah, it seems counter intuitive at first glance. There is a prevailing theory mainly on the JL side but also pans out on the JT side that in stock form whether you have for instances a base sport (for which I do) and across all models to include the Rubicon and Mojave with the taller springs and ride height, they all use the same factory length control arms.

That means the Rubicon and Mojave are at their max limits in terms of castor with the factory control arms. Putting on the MOPAR 2" lift kit control arms with the extra 1/4" of length on a factory Rubicon or Mojave without any other lift will give better handling with the increase of castor.

My base Sport while it started off with the factory suspension, I have installed the Spring Set out of a Diesel Rubicon JT with the steel bumper option into my base sport that has also given me close to 1.75" of lift from the factory Sport springs. Couple that with me recently installing a set of Mojave axles, I have a bit more going on and hence why I went with the MOPAR lift kit extended length arms.

Been a thread or two hear of others doing the same thing with their JT's for the same reason but is a more popular mod on the JL side.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

I hope you licked it.

Wait, people don't? I thought it was required?

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Another thing I've been chasing... a damn air leak whistle somewhere.

I tried reseating the freedom panels, tried "reseating" the read slide window, and tried retightening the top bolts, but it's still there. I think it's in the rear of the cab, and if I crack any one of the windows it stops. Going to pull the panels and top this afternoon and clean all the seals and see if any need reconditioning.

Got a 3,000 mile trip starting next week and I DO NOT want to listen to this the entire time...

 

[WILDHOBO]

Wait, people don't? I thought it was required?

Me too. This time, I just meant I hoped they finally fixed the issue. But I should have known what would happen on this forum.

Sponsored