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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

WILDHOBO

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This instruction set mentions also taking out the transmission cross member nuts before jacking the engine up.
Thanks for the instructions. I’m guesssing my issue is I didn’t remove the nut on the passenger side of the engine. I was hoping to avoid that. Apparently not. I called the dealer to reserve some more white fender clips. So I’ll lick those up tomorrow and continue the fun. I’d been dreading this, but don’t want to tow for 2400 miles with a bad motor mount.
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WILDHOBO

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https://shiftautoandoffroad.com/products/shift-reinforcement-bridge

Mine are the “v3” version, I think that’s the only one they are shipping now.

To be clear, the brace isn’t “ready” for the bump stops: you have to cut a hole through main face plate and notch the trusses a bit, but my shop (not installed at Shift) said it was super easy.

My thought was if I’m gonna have to cut the frame, might as well reinforce it.
You had to cut the frame? Any pictures?
 

JeepOfTheseus

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You had to cut the frame? Any pictures?
Forgot to take one…had a chance, too.

It’s basically what the instructions entail for installing the rear bump stops. With or without the brace, you have to notch the frame behind the factory bump stop (which gets cut off) so that the bump stop pipe can slide in.

The brace on its own just requires grinding the bump stop bracket down and the brace goes over the bare area. If you reuse factory style stops, they attach to the bottom of the brace (you may still have to cut a hole), but it doesn’t interfere with the frame.
 

Stan H

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Forgot to take one…had a chance, too.

It’s basically what the instructions entail for installing the rear bump stops. With or without the brace, you have to notch the frame behind the factory bump stop (which gets cut off) so that the bump stop pipe can slide in.

The brace on its own just requires grinding the bump stop bracket down and the brace goes over the bare area. If you reuse factory style stops, they attach to the bottom of the brace (you may still have to cut a hole), but it doesn’t interfere with the frame.
The Sumo's would do as much or more but its neat. But I can buy those sumas half as cheap as those jobs.
 

WILDHOBO

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Forgot to take one…had a chance, too.

It’s basically what the instructions entail for installing the rear bump stops. With or without the brace, you have to notch the frame behind the factory bump stop (which gets cut off) so that the bump stop pipe can slide in.

The brace on its own just requires grinding the bump stop bracket down and the brace goes over the bare area. If you reuse factory style stops, they attach to the bottom of the brace (you may still have to cut a hole), but it doesn’t interfere with the frame.
Seems like a smart play.
 

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WILDHOBO

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The Sumo's would do as much or more but its neat. But I can buy those sumas half as cheap as those jobs.
My rears are sumos. And I agree. I don’t think I even ever hit them at this point. Springs are too big.
 

WILDHOBO

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WILDHOBO

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Last step looks like the catch all and you may have to remove the engine block side mount.

Block Mount Side.webp
I saw that. I had looked at that on mine. Looks horrific with everything in the way.
 

WILDHOBO

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WILDHOBO

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Hootbro

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I saw that. I had looked at that on mine. Looks horrific with everything in the way.
Sometimes a Shit Sandwich is all that is on the menu. Been there.
 

WILDHOBO

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Supazuk

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mentioned that I pressed the knuckle joint out of the drag link and put it back in upside down for top steer, the taper sleeve is from apex chassis.

IMG_3912.jpeg
do you have a link to that sleeve??? I'm running the same teraflex drag link and I was just think this is dumb its on bottom and cant adjust or grease the joint easily installed
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