What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Rusty PW]

Well…. I’m not exactly sure what they did. I only see 1 bolt head that looks like a socket was on it. No stickers under hood, drivers door jam or fuel door. No instructional flyer on the dash, center console or front seats.

I didn’t even get a receipt from being there or for work completed. They said they’d email it to me once the tech completed his report.

they did however confirm my front drivers side warranted shock was bad and would order one in.

I had to ask for my stickers and the other papers that go into the manual. I asked for and got my old pump. When I picked it up to look at it. It was still warm.

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[RudeJeepin]

Are you switching to synthetic line? That steel cable will destroy a hawse in a short period of time.
Love the tie down idea.

No, I'm sticking to the steel cable, fits my usage better than synthetic. The hawse fairlead will out last the steel cable. It's the original Warn one from my old XD9000 winch that my boy has on his Jeep now. It's cast iron not aluminum. I painted it red to match the tow hooks.

 

[CyberHero]

Installed the Ace Engineering rock sliders. Used an extra long 1/2" ratcheting wrench and no heat. Saw no evidence of red Loctite on any of the bolts, but five were consistently tough to turn during the entire withdrawal. Even a Snap-On 1/2" impact wrench on a commercial air compressor was unable to turn them off. Whatever is on them just gums them up all of the way. The trick of using a pry bar while turning the last couple turns was necessary on a couple of them to get them to pull out. Install was a piece of cake. Really like that they fit with the Rubi rock rails ...

I really like these rock rails. However, just a random thought here: I have the Shrockworks rock sliders on my JK. They look quite similar to the Ace Engineering, however, they use several more bolts to secure them to the frame. I'd have no hesitation in using a Hi-Lift to raise one side of my JK on those rock rails. The Ace Engineering are not as securely mounted. For what I now do--overlanding--they are perfect. Seriously, they will be used mostly to climb into the Jeep, and to keep door dings at bay (267,000 miles on my JK, and no door dings ever. Plenty of trail rash, but no door dings, LOL). If you're a rock crawler, you might want to take a look at Shrockworks, which just became available. See if the JT rock rails are similarly strong to the JK ...

The shock works fit with rails too?

 

[Mark Doiron]

The shock works fit with rails too?

Yes they do, if that was specified when ordered. You can see that on this two door. Sadly, Shrockworks went out of business last year.

 

[Volksparts]

I had the ESS warning light pop up last week so checked the voltage on the 2.5 year old oem batteries and knew it was time to replace them. Yeah warranty could have replaced them but I despise going to the dealer for anything. Probably took less than 30 minutes to replace both. Went with the Walmart H7 AGM with 800 CCA's and 4 year warranty for the main and the Super start AGM for the auxiliary. Despite reading and watching many recommendations to pull the fender to do the aux battery swap I was able to just reach up and pull it down from underneath without too much difficulty. Helps to have specialty tools for the long reach to the bolts and a lifted truck.

On another note put on a little bling for the steering wheel I bought off Etsy. Felt like it matched my rear Gladiator emblem well.

 

[HooliganActual]

It's a disease with no cure except to sell all vehicles and get a horse ?

Man, I know some horse owners that would disagree with horse ownership being cheaper...LOL

 

[HooliganActual]

Yeah warranty could have replaced them but I despise going to the dealer for anything.

You are better off for having avoided the dealer on a battery replacement. They have a ridiculous multi-hour procedure they have to go through to validate and document the batteries needing replacement under warranty. Most warranty replacements are just a matter of a tech verifying that the part doesn't work, but for the batteries they charge them, discharge them and a hole rigamarole.

Not to mention, if they replace it, you get the same cr@p battery that it came with...

 

[HooliganActual]

The shock works fit with rails too?

Yes they do, if that was specified when ordered. You can see that on this two door. Sadly, Shrockworks went out of business last year.

@CyberHero based on the question you are asking and the fact that Shrockworks is OOB, you may be tempted to look at the Ace Engineering sliders. My 2016 JKUR's personal recommendation would be to stay away from the Ace sliders. Here's what happened to her:

The ACE sliders mount using the body mount bolts. Between where they mount and the frame are BIG rubber bushings designed to accommodate the frame flex and not transmit to the tub. This means that if you come down hard on that slider, it will flex upwards, compressing the bushings and striking the tub. You can see the buckled tub in the pic. It also changed the door gaps all the way around the door...

If you want a good cosmetic look, the Ace sliders are fine. If you are going to wheel that rig and USE those sliders, ditch the Rubi Rails (because they can allow for the same thing to happen) and get rock rails that bolt or weld to the frame. My $0.02 USD

 

[CyberHero]

Ya just don’t wanna drop half a paycheck for them lol

 

[WILDHOBO]

You are better off for having avoided the dealer on a battery replacement. They have a ridiculous multi-hour procedure they have to go through to validate and document the batteries needing replacement under warranty. Most warranty replacements are just a matter of a tech verifying that the part doesn't work, but for the batteries they charge them, discharge them and a hole rigamarole.

Not to mention, if they replace it, you get the same cr@p battery that it came with...

And they’ll likely leave something loose, blow a fuse, or short something out.

 

[Stan H]

You are better off for having avoided the dealer on a battery replacement. They have a ridiculous multi-hour procedure they have to go through to validate and document the batteries needing replacement under warranty. Most warranty replacements are just a matter of a tech verifying that the part doesn't work, but for the batteries they charge them, discharge them and a hole rigamarole.

Not to mention, if they replace it, you get the same cr@p battery that it came with...

I'm way outta warranty anyway

 

[Stan H]

Was it the original battery? I know you have quite a few miles but it wasn't that old based on the year of your truck. My last vehicle did the same thing but my battery lasted about 6 years. Didn't give any warning or sound weak. Got in at work and it wouldn't start. Maybe that's just the way they work these days. Did you consider doing the aux battery delete? I have seen mention of it but have not researched how that works and if there are any issues if it's done. I have not had mine long but so far like you I am loving it. You need to plan that road trip to go see @WILDHOBO.

It was the original 650 CCA battery from the factory. Lasted 3 years 2 months
I have consider aux battery delete but this stuff has so much electronics didn't want to screw something up and replaced the aux back in the early fall

 

[Stan H]

I do need to do that roadtrip . I work 2 weeks on and 2 off so there are possibilities for sure.

 

[Stan H]

I think when the time comes I’ll be getting a new Jeep LOL

No way aint getting rid of this one. I know several people who have upgraded the oil coolers and they say it's not that bad of a job

 

[WILDHOBO]

It was the original 650 CCA battery from the factory. Lasted 3 years 2 months
I have consider aux battery delete but this stuff has so much electronics didn't want to screw something up and replaced the aux back in the early fall

I agree completely. I’ll leave the system like it is when it’s time. I’ll replace with higher quality, but equal setup. Mine are still original and have lasted since July ‘21 and almost 50k miles. I attribute their decent life span to the hood solar that constantly maintains them.

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