What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[TheTrailGeek]

Super productive weekend. I finally got the extrusion mini-rack installed for my electronics and mounted all the Baja Designs S2 Sports on the canopy and punched the wiring through to the inside. Up next is the Redarc battery controller and the 230ah Lifepo4.

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[KevinM60]

Kiwi LED tails and some amazon led fogs that can toggle from yellow to white.

Looks good.
So do the Christmas lights still hanging.
You're ready for next Christmas.

 

[Glad Newbie]

For everyone complaining about 190 ft lbs, Google the torque spec for the lower shock bolt on the new Bronco. WTF!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For everyone complaining about 190 ft lbs, Google the torque spec for the lower shock bolt on the new Bronco. WTF!

Service the rear axle bearings or seals on either of my cars - the hub nut is 250.

 

[Glad Newbie]

Those lower shock bolts are 350 ft lbs.

 

[Jerhemi]

Looks good.
So do the Christmas lights still hanging.
You're ready for next Christmas.

Haha shows my priorities! I have been working on re-sodding the lawn, building a pet fence and a 14’ planter box….the lights have to wait.

 

[RudeJeepin]

I've used a protractor and marker before. Those magnetic angle thingies work in some cases. I have one I use on drive lines, my table saw blade and so on.
They do the degrees because that gives them an exact amount of stretch or tension. Sort of like SBC lifter preload. .... 32 tpi means 1/32" for every turn of the nut.

I get the torque plus degree and torque to yield and such. I spent 20+ plus years as a professional mechanic. Not counting the 20 or so years of working on my own stuff before that.
Started out in school transportation; cars, vans, buses, sports field equipment, mowers etc. Then I went to a county road department; pickups, vans, public transit, excavator, dump trucks, loaders, motor graders, etc.
I've used degree wheels many times, and various styles. Done the protractor method, magnet mount style typically used for driveline. All that stuff.
Loved the torque multipliers for heavier stuff. I've even used hydraulic powered torque devices. There was one that was designed to be welded on, then you could torqued the nut down. But when your talking values up to and above 1000, you don't want to be too close, just in case.

Speaking of which, I need to pick up a new torque multiplier. Not sure where mine ended up to.

 

[40x40]

What is the weight of that tire/receiver?

expedition one lists the arm AND bumper as 180 lbs. they do not break down bumper or arm separately. it is very stout and well engineered.

 

[40x40]

I don't mind the torque plus degrees. I just wish it was in increments of 45 degrees. I don't own a degree wheel. Not to mention it can be pretty hard to use one in every situation.

someone on the forum a while back posted a helpful hint. after torquing, use an impact gun for the degree add on. apply a dab a of paint from a paint pen on the socket and another on the vehicle X number of degrees away. let it rip and align the dots. and of course remove the wet paint.

 

[DanJT]

I’m not the expert you are, but I’d say that’s truly necessary with things like lifters and rod bolts, and main bearings. But control arms? They, in my opinion, need enough clamping pressure to not have any play at all, and less pressure than what would damage the brackets. I use common sense, then see if there’s any movement at all, with a large rubber hammer if you want. Then go around the block and exercise the brakes to look for clunking. You can always tighten more. With lock nuts and that much torque, even if they’re 10 or 20lbs light on the test drive, there’s no safety risk.

The other side of this is blindly trusting a piece of paper with torque specs, ignoring common sense. A friend and I trusted that a few weeks ago lifting a literally brand new JTR. The bolts had 2k miles on them. We trusted the 150ft lb rating from teraflex for the front upper axle end bolts. No impact at any stage. All manual with a good quality calibrated wrench. Broke two bolts. Screw that. Replaced the bolts and did the initial torque with an impact and used common sense and a lengthy test drive including offroad bumps.

That's why I rely on the 2 grunts and a fart method of tightening bolts. Has worked for almost 50 years and never lost a bolt or had one come loose. but I have been using torque wrenches more often now that I can't trust a fart anymore at my age!

 

[RudeJeepin]

someone on the forum a while back posted a helpful hint. after torquing, use an impact gun for the degree add on. apply a dab a of paint from a paint pen on the socket and another on the vehicle X number of degrees away. let it rip and align the dots. and of course remove the wet paint.

Why remove the paint? You could use it for witnes marks. Quick visual will tell you if anything has loosened up.

 

[40x40]

Why remove the paint? You could use it for witnes marks. Quick visual will tell you if anything has loosened up.

one paint dot is on the exterior of the socket. paint could be applied to the nut to provide a witness mark. i was only removing paint from the socket to avoid future confusion. you make a good point.

 

[SnazzGlad]

Battery last week, bypassed the aux. Cleaned the inside and replaced the air and cabin filters today. About a 4 beer job lol.

 

[drewcnit]

Rear Seat Delete Deck -

I have no clue what I'm doing -

Also saw a bunny -

 

[WILDHOBO]

Battery last week, bypassed the aux. Cleaned the inside and replaced the air and cabin filters today. About a 4 beer job lol.

How many ounces per?

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