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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Stan H

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I made the terminal block mount and cover. I made it so I can insert a screwdriver to access the screws, but otherwise, nothing can fall onto the terminals and short anything.
That actually was really cool like that đź’ˇ idea
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RudeJeepin

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Working two overnights in a row, on top of my double overtimes last weekend.

I'm getting paid a quarter what some widebody captain is to babysit him and 25 other pilots at the same time
I've always said, "the harder you work, the less you make."
 

Stan H

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I've always said, "the harder you work, the less you make."
And I also notice that there was a certain point in the overtime hours that if you went above you would jump up into more taxes with held and I seem to remember its around 20 hrs.
 

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So with the ram the correct way the nut on the drag link rubs the ram body at full left lock. I'm not sure what the solution is here. Flip the ram back the way it was, I guess. Or come up with new mounting locations entirely. Or I guess a longer rod end. Running out of time to get this done.

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Jaxmax

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So with the ram the correct way the nut on the drag link rubs the ram body at full left lock. I'm not sure what the solution is here. Flip the ram back the way it was, I guess. Or come up with new mounting locations entirely. Or I guess a longer rod end. Running out of time to get this done.

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Can you rotate the clamp on tie rod at all to get a little bit more ? I am thinking not and also am I agreement that the fixed end and not having hoses move so much is better way….Jack
 

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Stan H

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Can you rotate the clamp on tie rod at all to get a little bit more ? I am thinking not and also am I agreement that the fixed end and not having hoses move so much is better way….Jack
If it was me I'd flip it then its down awy from the draglink
 

Coltron_Actual

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Finished my McMaster-Carr Trail Rails install. Waited for the bed rug to be delivered and I might not have even bothered with the rails had I ordered the bedrug first. Oh well.

All are 4' sections of powdercoated unistrut. Sides are full height, and the front piece I went with narrow, or half-height channel. They were powder-coated, but I hit them with flat black paint anyway. All parts were from McMaster-Carr, and I can post a parts list if anyone wants it.

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ShadowsPapa

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And I also notice that there was a certain point in the overtime hours that if you went above you would jump up into more taxes with held and I seem to remember its around 20 hrs.
When I was electrician and network tech at PFG - a guy who worked with us had come from the AT&T break-up. Time for reviews, raises and so on - he got a great review and told them where to put their raise as it bumped him just far enough into the next bracket it would be a loss in the end.
He refused the raise.
 

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Can you rotate the clamp on tie rod at all to get a little bit more ? I am thinking not and also am I agreement that the fixed end and not having hoses move so much is better way….Jack
I have the clamp on the tie rod clocked as far as it can go before it impacts the diff cover. It's pitched back about 45°

If it was me I'd flip it then its down awy from the draglink
I'm not sure what you mean. You want the ram high so it doesn't impact obstacles and you want the push/pull to be as linear as possible.
 
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Coltron_Actual

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When I was electrician and network tech at PFG - a guy who worked with us had come from the AT&T break-up. Time for reviews, raises and so on - he got a great review and told them where to put their raise as it bumped him just far enough into the next bracket it would be a loss in the end.
He refused the raise.
This happened to me a little less than ten years ago. Yearly raise put me into a new tax bracket by pennies and my take home pay ended up being less. That was a fun year. For some reason going back to my old rate and tacking on the current year's raise to the following year's was an impossibility.
 

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Stan H

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I have the clamp on the tie rod clocked as far as it can go before it impacts the diff cover. It's pitched back about 45°



I'm not sure what you mean. You want to ram high so it doesn't impact obstacles and you want the push/pull to be as linear as possible.
Well then get a thinner lock ring for the draglink bar such as a threaded pipe..keep the nut way back then lock the nut against the threaded pipe.
I meant the ram end for end .. the PSC system is the same system essentially that was on the old Ford F-250 highboys with ram assist . Just some thoughts.
 

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Well then get a thinner lock ring for the draglink bar such as a threaded pipe..keep the nut way back then lock the nut against the threaded pipe.
I meant the ram end for end .. the PSC system is the same system essentially that was on the old Ford F-250 highboys with ram assist . Just some thoughts.
I had the ram the other way around originally but that then pushed and pulled the hydraulic lines across the axle. It's much better with the ram on the fixed end, I think.

I'm putting everything back together now then going to double check my steering wheel alignment is good. As long as it's set, I think I might just take a grinder to that one spot on the nut and see if I can get away with leaving it all as is
 

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Took the back hard top off for the first time on my 2024. Have a good week or so ahead of me with no rain. Of course the wife doesn't like my storage location so I may not make it through the whole duration :LOL:
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Also tried out the mopar cab cover that's been sitting collecting dust for many months. For my uses I really like it as I am just throwing it on if i'm parked for more than 30 min. Super light, packs small, and goes on quick. But I can see why its not good for much other than keeping bird poop and leaves out. Doubt it would keep rain out well I had a MasterTop for my 2022 but it was too bulky and a pain to put on for short parks.

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Was that you I saw on Hembree Rd today around 3 pm? Red Gladiator running around topless. :)
 

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DID TRIPLE WINSHIELD PROTECTION,HOPE ITS WORTH IT.. NO PICS LOOKS THE SAME
 

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I had the ram the other way around originally but that then pushed and pulled the hydraulic lines across the axle. It's much better with the ram on the fixed end, I think.

I'm putting everything back together now then going to double check my steering wheel alignment is good. As long as it's set, I think I might just take a grinder to that one spot on the nut and see if I can get away with leaving it all as is
A little grinder action to radius the back of the nut flush with the drag link itself and good to go. It all juuuust kisses at full lock. Not enough to scratch or see any deflection or anything. I think I'm happy with that. Just need to touch up that spot. I think I'll hit it with some primer and maybe throw an inappropriate sticker over it in case anybody gets down there to look.

Everything is buttoned back up, drives great. It's actually scary how effortlessly the wheel turns in 4lo with both axles locked on pavement. I'm very mechanically sympathetic most of the time, that's how I never break things.... But now that feedback is largely gone.

Anyway time to start on the rear Antirock

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