What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[ShadowsPapa]

How about an electronic sway disconnect? There are 2 local to me on fakebook. One is $300 and the other is $500. You could easily wire it up to an aux switch and disconnect it anytime you wanted.
Kinda wish i had that kind of control over mine.

Electrically wire - or some have made a manual setup to replace the motor.
But wiring electrically shouldn't be a problem. Wouldn't be hard to figure out and doesn't need to be integrated with the truck.

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[ShadowsPapa]

I have seen several guys buy that Rubicon disconnect and install it in sport models which you can find those in spades on lkqonline.com but the Mojave has those front reservoir shocks so I dont know if that interfers with that or if its out in front of that space that is utilized for the remote reservoir

Shock reservoirs shouldn't be a problem. (and if absolutely necessary, can be relocated. I have two sets of brackets that can be used)

 

[WILDHOBO]

Shock reservoirs shouldn't be a problem. (and if absolutely necessary, can be relocated. I have two sets of brackets that can be used)

They won’t be in the way as far as I’m aware.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How about an electronic sway disconnect? There are 2 local to me on fakebook. One is $300 and the other is $500. You could easily wire it up to an aux switch and disconnect it anytime you wanted.
Kinda wish i had that kind of control over mine.

Adding to comments from last night - already found two ways to operate the Rubicon disconnect:
With a turn knob, manually - replaces the entire electric module
or
Pull the circuit board and hotwire it with a DPDT switch to run the motor. Tricky as it's counting on lower than 13 system volts (12 or less) and you lose the "stop at the end" control so have to be careful about how long to apply power. But - it's doable.

 

[Hootbro]

Adding to comments from last night - already found two ways to operate the Rubicon disconnect:
With a turn knob, manually - replaces the entire electric module
or
Pull the circuit board and hotwire it with a DPDT switch to run the motor. Tricky as it's counting on lower than 13 system volts (12 or less) and you lose the "stop at the end" control so have to be careful about how long to apply power. But - it's doable.

This guy on the JL side recently did a splice in with his Sport for a Rubicon front sway bar disconnect and enabled the CAN functions.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...r-panel-to-a-sport-model.155320/#post-3206596

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This guy on the JL side recently did a splice in with his Sport for a Rubicon front sway bar disconnect and enabled the CAN functions.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...r-panel-to-a-sport-model.155320/#post-3206596

I dug into the schematics - and not a lot of help, really, but told me, oh, s@#^, you mean I have to get through the FIREWALL again??? (meaning getting to the area behind the glovebox with a cable from the engine bay area)

Time to drive my truck over to Don and leave it for a while.........

Rubicon sway bar found and on the way. I'm telling ya - some of the forum member are just beyond great. The harness has been cut, but........... some of it is there.

Would be nice to enable it properly but - the Mojave panel is full of switches as it is, so I'll have to see if I want to go that far.

The 24/25 center area does not come apart so easily and nicely as the 23 and older. It's a pain in the rear. I gave up trying to get it apart to run wires through for my plow controller and just fished the power wire behind the center stack with a stiff wire.

Too bad "Off Road + " doesn't disconnect the sway bar. It does everything else.

 

[Mightytalldude]

I dug into the schematics - and not a lot of help, really, but told me, oh, s@#^, you mean I have to get through the FIREWALL again??? (meaning getting to the area behind the glovebox with a cable from the engine bay area)

Time to drive my truck over to Don and leave it for a while.........

Rubicon sway bar found and on the way. I'm telling ya - some of the forum member are just beyond great. The harness has been cut, but........... some of it is there.

Would be nice to enable it properly but - the Mojave panel is full of switches as it is, so I'll have to see if I want to go that far.

The 24/25 center area does not come apart so easily and nicely as the 23 and older. It's a pain in the rear. I gave up trying to get it apart to run wires through for my plow controller and just fished the power wire behind the center stack with a stiff wire.

Too bad "Off Road + " doesn't disconnect the sway bar. It does everything else.

The motor cost is what's pricey. Sell it and make some money. Get a manual knob off eBay, or one through EVO and then you'll have total control and no need to wire anything up. I went that route with my Sport S, and have excellent articulation with the stock Rubicon disconnect.

 

[Splenda]

Went on a tangent with the crossmember replacement. In order to add some clearance between my exhaust and my engine/tranny skid, made a spacer to go between the transmission mount bracket and the top of the crossmember. The idea is to mount the crossmember 1/4” lower (version 1 prototype), as the skid attaches to the crossmember. That’ll lower the skid 1/4”. If it’s not enough, I’ll first see what I can do to add clearance at the front of the skid as well. I’m hoping 1/4” on the rear end is enough. It’s drying after painting now, but the test fit was perfect. Just 1/4” steel plate to match the bracket with two holes. We’ll see how it works out.

Nice! I may have to do something like this. The clearance appears to be good when I am going forward, but the engine must shift just enough when I am in reverse that the exhaust touches my engine/transmission skid plate where it crosses over. It's not terrible, but it bothers me a little.

 

[Stan H]

I dug into the schematics - and not a lot of help, really, but told me, oh, s@#^, you mean I have to get through the FIREWALL again??? (meaning getting to the area behind the glovebox with a cable from the engine bay area)

Time to drive my truck over to Don and leave it for a while.........

Rubicon sway bar found and on the way. I'm telling ya - some of the forum member are just beyond great. The harness has been cut, but........... some of it is there.

Would be nice to enable it properly but - the Mojave panel is full of switches as it is, so I'll have to see if I want to go that far.

The 24/25 center area does not come apart so easily and nicely as the 23 and older. It's a pain in the rear. I gave up trying to get it apart to run wires through for my plow controller and just fished the power wire behind the center stack with a stiff wire.

Too bad "Off Road + " doesn't disconnect the sway bar. It does everything else.

The button right below does ..Wonder if you could go to @AllMoparParts.com and get that button that says sway bar

 

[Mightytalldude]

Giving more options. Plenty of people on here to help with wiring if you go that route. Here's another option from EVO. https://www.extremeterrain.com/evo-...s-on-demand-sway-bar-disconnect-evo-1152.html

 

[WILDHOBO]

Nice! I may have to do something like this. The clearance appears to be good when I am going forward, but the engine must shift just enough when I am in reverse that the exhaust touches my engine/transmission skid plate where it crosses over. It's not terrible, but it bothers me a little.

This solved it for me 100%. I on purpose did not move the transmission up. I used the spacer to lower the crossmember, and therefore the skids by that 1/4”. I didn’t want to change the driveline.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The button right below does ..Wonder if you could go to @AllMoparParts.com and get that button that says sway bar

That’s my thought. Add a switch, ignition, battery positive, ground, star connector, and Jscan to enable the feature.

 

[Stan H]

That’s my thought. Add a switch, ignition, battery positive, ground, star connector, and Jscan to enable the feature.

Brilliant minds think alike . Daggum Mensa material I say !!!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The button right below does ..Wonder if you could go to @AllMoparParts.com and get that button that says sway bar

ZAutomotive sells that switch panel. Taking the center stack apart on a 24 or 25 is apparently a whole lot worse than the 23 and prior. I could have the center all apart in a couple of minutes on my 22 - I tried on my 25 and gave up. Very different, could not figure out how a 25 center stack comes apart.
The biggest kick in the ribs for doing that is all of the wiring, tying into existing connections, feeding into the CANbus in the cabin and so on. Is it worth it?
Hmmmmm - you end up spending over $100 for the switch panel from ZAutomotive (or even more from MOPAR themselves???) and start to add up the $$ again, plus the connectors to buy and so on.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Brilliant minds think alike . Daggum Mensa material I say !!!

Or just wire it directly to a switch. I can’t imagine it’s that hard. Only 6 wires, and two are grounds. One constant battery, one ignition, and two for star connection to cam.

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