What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[gonemad]

Installed front shocks. Just used hand tools.

Replacing the rears in the morning. I might have to use Gorilla tape as a third hand to hold the wrench behind the top of the shocks for the top bolts.

We’ll see how that goes.

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[Bandit’s Lair]

Well, dear Jeepers, grab a stump and have a seat, ol' Mud Pie is about to ramble....a drink of choice is befitting, be it alcoholic or not. Alcohol will make this go down easier....

When I retired, it's often said that you have time on your hands. You do; 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. I'm not one to sit on a couch or watch excessive TV when the sun is up. I still wake up before 5am, been doing so since I was 18 slumbering at Parris Island while getting my brain in order. Well, Marine Corps order....

I haven't changed my oil since 2018, but I still have two of those re-sealable 8 quart oil drain containers in my garage; been on the "gotta get rid of" list since before 2018 (hence the reason for TWO containers, both full.). This morning while grabbing a 6' ladder, you guess it, I knocked one of them sumbitches over. That screw tight lid gave up the ghost, dirty black oil flowing FAST down my steeply inclined driveway. I instinctively went to grab it, it was covered in escaping oil, all I accomplished was flipping it TOTALLY over. Oil began running down my driveway like eager shoppers on Black Friday morning running for the crappy 75 buck TV's.

Luck would have it that there was a brand new 30 lb bag of cat litter nearby. First douse was ON the oil; bad move, it made the oil run quicker. Made a little dam of kitty litter to where the oil was heading. Bob's you Uncle !! It worked, Then I began spreading it all over the ever-growing ugly puddle.

We have 3 cats, but they are indoor/outdoor cats. We only put out litter boxes during hurricanes or tropical storms. My wife !! I exclaim. She ALWAYS overbuys !! I run in the house, two 20 lb bags of litter in the spare bathroom !! I shall whine no more !! I make a beeline for the front door and I see.....oily footprints on our nice wooden floors... rut-roh. I stupidly check my soles like it could be someone besides me.... I spread the kitty litter on the puddle, then stand on it to grind it in. I laugh with the thought of my neighbors saying, "Why is that old man standing in his driveway doing The Twist this early in the morning ?".

I told you all this to get to the Jeep part of this ramble (long prelude to get back on topic, but you were warned, go refill your glass, I got more). While the litter was soaking, I broke out my pressure washer. When you don't want to do something, you can rationalize anything. Using the dirty roasting pan logic, I came up with, "Maybe I'll let it soak for a bit !!".

Now here is the unusual part.... I put some Griots Snow Foam in the pressure washer tank and washed the ENTIRE undercarriage of my Gladiator. I mean every freaking inch. Dirt clods falling like turds from overfed laughing seagulls assaulting fishermen. I let it sit for 20 minutes then went back and pressure sprayed it off.

I sat back and looked. Damn, looks nice !! Know what it needs ? A coat of wax. No worries, I stopped myself. Barely.

However, I DID coat an applicator pad with Griots Vinyl and Rubber Protectant and wiped down the wheel wells. Sure do look pretty. The only thing dirty in that Jeep are my thoughts. No mental bleach can clean THAT.

This is what happens when you retire and are unwatched (my wife still works). You have time to come up with things. Did I have other pressing matters ? Sure did. But there is always tomorrow.

BTW - Yep, there is still a massive mound of kitty litter on my driveway....

Ramble over, as you were....

When I went to Florida to pick up my Dads car I tried to be responsible and change the oil. Just to be safe. So I picked up one of those wonderful harbor freight oil drain pans because it was fairly cheap. Popped the oil drain plug off the Pacifica and it plopped right into the hole where the oil drains into the pan. Absolutely PERFECT fit!!!!! End result was about 5 qts of oil all over the floor of my Dads very neat and organized garage under a very heavy car with no oil in it. I could feel him looking down on me with that look!!!!! (He had passed 2 months earlier)

 

[Cattywumpuss]

Well, nothing as exciting as trying to recreate the Exxon Valdez oil spill in my driveway or changing out shocks with hand tools, Gorilla tape and a prayer . . . . . but my co-pilot now has a MagSafe phone holder for when she is riding with me.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Novel time.

Now that my help has left and I've gone back to my day job and had some time to think about some stuff, I wanted to hit on a couple other details and elaborate some on issues we had and overall thoughts on the regear process. I'm sure this is already documented all over the place but I like to put some of my thoughts into a post so I can reference it myself in the future and if it helps anybody else then that's just a positive. I like to type a lot and be verbose so it can come up easy in search results. I still come across my own posts on Toyota forums from 25 years ago.

This is the first time I've been hands on with a regear. I've pulled carriers and messed with shims a bit before, welded trusses, rebuilt axles, etc, but I've never gone through the whole process of a ratio change start to finish myself. I had two experienced people with me.

I have a Rubicon with the M210 front and M220 rear, like I believe all of our JTs do.
We were using Dana/Spicer 4.88 gears front and rear, going from 3.73. No carrier break on these axles, so in terms of parts all you need in theory are the gears and rebuild kits. (more on that)

One optional change we made was converting the rear axle pinion bearing from the ball bearing to roller bearing. I've seen discussion about this but we still had a bit of uncertainty going in, so here is a side by side photo of that rear pinion bearing so you can see the difference and how the race is constructed. I've seen talk that the ball bearings can be prone to failure, and at the very least, they're less proven. The fact that they only did a ball bearing in the rear pinion that sees drive all the time and not the front, leads me to believe that it wasn't a change for strength so much as a change for economy. So back to the roller bearing we went, as was the setup in previous generation D44s.

Another change we opted to make was the conversion from a crush sleeve on the pinions to a solid spacer. My experienced friend told me he'd seen people smack the pinion on rocks off road enough to compress the crush sleeve and loosen the pinion in the past, so that drove the decision to go to a solid spacer. You still set up to the same pinion torque to rotate with the solid spacer in theory, but you may really need to mess around with the shims a bit and crank down on the pinion nut to get there. In our case, well over 250 lb-ft on both axles for final setup. We ended up with one or two inch pounds more force than spec to rotate in the rear, but we theorize that's probably about right having gone from the ball bearing to the roller.

I ordered the conversion kits from East Coast Gear Supply, #D44JL-PBO-CONV and SS-D44JLF

Those parts showed up like this, with the roller itself loose in the box. Not particularly thrilled with that, but it allowed me to get the part numbers off the conversion bearing and buy another one to make a setup bearing anyway.

The specific part numbers for the rear pinion roller bearing conversion are Timken M802011 and Timken M802048, and are quite affordable on RockAuto. If you wanted to do the bearing conversion but not the solid sleeve conversion, you might want to have a stack of pinion shims on hand. See the earlier photo with the bearings side by side and the height difference.

Back to the rebuild kits. 10040478 for the rear, 10040469 for the front. These look like they come with a lot of shims, but they were very inadequate, at least for the front. The shims on each side of the carrier are different sizes, and they come in a not very useful range of thicknesses. I didn't write it down but it was something like some .003, .005, and .010 and nothing else. It wasn't enough for us to get it shimmed right and have a proper preload in the case. I hit up the local off road shop (shout out to Zeus) and in exchange for some Mountain Dew they gave me a stack of shims. These were all largely the same size we already had, I suspect because the good sizes are already on axles somewhere. They confirmed that the shims aren't always consistent in these rebuild kits and sometimes you get a shitty stack. So, we weren't too happy about that.

We messed with the front pattern for probably 12 hours, referenced multiple setup manuals, and contacted several professionals we knew in the space to get their input before we called it good enough. We wanted it perfect, but ultimately couldn't get it there and everybody we reached out to concurred that it was acceptable. If I were to do it over I'd spend the money on some more shims. And maybe some shim drivers.

We ended up getting it a smidge better than this but none of us thought to take any pictures.

Front, M210 4.88s:

I already mentioned it in a previous post but I'm going to put it in here again so it's in the same place. We dropped the rear in with the same factory shim stack and the pattern was really good, preload was good, backlash was good. After the front axle put up such a fight it was nice to not really have to do anything with the rear. Ultimately, the front end took two days of work and the rear took an hour.

Rear, M220 4.88s:

One more note on that, the Spicer rebuild kits don't come with marking compound, so you'll need that. They do come with some gasket, but the diff cover seals are reusable. We used that gasket on the pinion splines, but the splines are so tight on these pinions it might not even be necessary. An air hammer to get the pinions out was a lifesaver.

A pinion holding tool was really useful as well. We used this one, which also has a piece for using it to press the pinion out if you'd rather.

We used a Vevor bearing puller as well, though not strictly necessary if you're willing to just cut the bearings off.
Same story with a case spreader. These aren't usually necessary either but with the shitty shim stack selection in the front it came in clutch to get the offset decent and still have a tight fit in the housing.
A shop press is a must have, we used it for both pressing on new bearings and for holding the carrier to tighten the ring gear bolts. I just have a little 12 ton press from Harbor Freight.

Everything else was pretty standard for a regear. I had gotten some seal drivers that were supposed to work on these axles but they didn't fit. The construction of the pinion seals allowed us to just hammer them in with a block of wood anyway, they put up no fight. I had also gotten a race driver set and we ended up just using a punch to drive them in, it was easier to feel what it was doing and see that it was going in straight, imo. Tons of options for a good punch but this was a great length with an oval end and worked beautifully.

We used a propane torch ($30 at Harbor Freight) and an infrared thermometer to get the whole front axle up to about 300-350° for welding the truss on, and wrapped in a welding blanket afterward. My little Hobart 190 (230v) did just fine. The welds aren't super pretty on the front of the axle but they burned in real nice on the rear (go figure.) Truss is from Artec

Pressed out the upper bushings on the front axle and will be installing Johnny Joints in their place. I did the same on my TJ back in the day, it really helps to tighten up the front end, imo. Gets rids of that last little bit of reverb feeling. Every other joint on the front is already a JJ.

I still have some lower control arm mount skids to weld on, then get some paint on there and throw them back under the Jeep.

I think that's about everything.

Does anybody have any recommendations for anything else I should do while I have the convenience of having the axles out?

I was out of town for a while but I'm back now and I'm still waiting on parts. Decided before I throw these axles back under the Jeep I want to gusset the C's so I'm waiting on those to show up. I'm contemplating a Shift JT Bridge to reinforce the frame in the rear. I think it's probably unnecessary with the way I wheel but I am heavy and you never know when you'll be cruising along some remote desert road and don't hit the brakes hard enough early enough for a washout and the rear takes a wallop. One issue is I'm triangulated in the rear now and don't need the track bar mount on the frame anymore, so I intent to shave it. But the Shift bridge butts up and welds to it. So I emailed them inquiring as to whether they have a mirrored version of the left side that tapers nicely into the frame.

I think the C gussets might have been suggested by a fellow forum member, I was already considering them but thanks for the suggestion. Somebody else reminded me of the locker sensor issues. So I've ordered 50ml of potting compound and the 5 pack kit of sensors with the intention to pot all of them and carry them with me.

Speaking of which, I had a decked drawer system delivered. I know these are controversial and a lot of folks don't like them but with where I am and how I'm set up right now it's going to be a HUGE improvement over what I've been doing, which is strapping stacked tubs down to a seat delete platform in the back of the cab and ratchet strapping supplies down at the back of the bed largely ignoring the front of it. Also, the government employee discount is substantial with those guys, bravo to them. Gov may only give me a 1% raise but at least I've got that.

Anyway tonight I just heated the garage up, drank some of my favorite beers, and finished buttoning up the rear axle:

The Antirock axle side brackets kept loosening up on me and popping when I was in Moab, so I welded them on. The Rock Krawler triangulation truss comes with u bolts that I hated looking at so I added a lot more weld to make it solid enough I've comfortable to remove the bolt-on-ugly straps. I Cut the track bar bracket off the axle neatly enough to be able to weld it back on if I ever need to. (which is a whole cascading rabbit whole of issues) Then I hit it with some sloppy prep rattle can.

So as a summary for the rear axle:
M220
Dana/Spicer Chromoly shafts
Dana/Spicer 4.88 gears
Pinion roller bearing conversion and crush sleeve eliminator
RockJock 2" Bump stop landing pads
Dana/Spicer diff cover
Rock Crawler upper triangulation bridge
Good old Rustoleum

This is the furthest I'm willing to take these axles.

I really should make a build thread.

Next big trip end of May.

Also my cat's the shit

 

[InvertedLogic]

Found my missing quart of oil in the valley of the V in my 3.6L. Looks like it’s time for a new oil filter housing. Also discovered dying alternator pulley.

 

[Hootbro]

Found my missing quart of oil in the valley of the V in my 3.6L. Looks like it’s time for a new oil filter housing. Also discovered dying alternator pulley.

Here is the special tool for removing the pulley:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57650-Alternator-Decoupler-Tool/dp/B00AGWEUKI

You can find the replacement pulley in the aftermarket. MOPAR does not officially sell a OEM replacement pulley and wants to sell the whole alternator with attached pulley.

 

[Mud Pie]

I retired early at 60 in 2016. Everytime I plan on retiring. Someone wants me to go to work for them. So far, I've retired 3 times since 2016. I've turned down some great offers last year. They wanted me to move someplace that I don't like. The company I'm with now. Gave me my own office and company truck. And I'll be 70 next month.

I got lucky. I retired at age 64, I'll be 65 this coming April. Now I have to figure out all that Medicare crap....

 

[Rusty PW]

I got lucky. I retired at age 64, I'll be 65 this coming April. Now I have to figure out all that Medicare crap....

I should have waited until I was 65. Because I had to go on Obomacare. Which sucked donkey balls. It was $1,800 a month for both me and the wifey for the first year. The second year, it went to $2,200.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I got lucky. I retired at age 64, I'll be 65 this coming April. Now I have to figure out all that Medicare crap....

Good luck!!!! I was working on that with my Mom and it’s not easy. As much crap as is talked about the VA at least it’s easier to navigate.

 

[DanW]

Found my missing quart of oil in the valley of the V in my 3.6L. Looks like it’s time for a new oil filter housing. Also discovered dying alternator pulley.

Was the alt pulley making noise? If so, what did it sound like?

 

[InvertedLogic]

Was the alt pulley making noise? If so, what did it sound like?

If so it’s pretty subtle. There’s a quiet chirp on cold mornings on start up. Otherwise when under heavy load and 3-4k rpm say at 80mph towing a trailer there’s a whine from somewhere in the engine bay. I’m hoping it’s this pulley and not the water pump.

 

[Mud Pie]

I should have waited until I was 65. Because I had to go on Obomacare. Which sucked donkey balls. It was $1,800 a month for both me and the wifey for the first year. The second year, it went to $2,200.

That's again where I got lucky. I am on my wife's insurance until I turn 65. She retired from an oil and gas company after 38 years after the company sold out. They had incredible benefits as all oil and gas do. They were self insured, our cost for medical, dental and vision was 120 bucks a month. For both of us. After her company sold out and let everyone go, she got another job, oil and gas related. Good benefits, but you pay. Her new insurance says I am off the policy when I turn 65.

 

[Hootbro]

Her new insurance says I am off the policy when I turn 65.

Pretty much all of them do it. It is cost shifting to get one on Medicare and then it is on you to buy supplemental insurance.

 

[KX L]

The only thing dirty in that Jeep are my thoughts. No mental bleach can clean THAT.

Best lines ever....

 

[Boosthead]

I should have waited until I was 65. Because I had to go on Obomacare. Which sucked donkey balls. It was $1,800 a month for both me and the wifey for the first year. The second year, it went to $2,200.

I want to retire at 60 but this is one of my biggest concerns, healthcare coverage to bridge the gap from then until 65. I guess if I win the lottery, I can cover the costs.

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