What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[DenCoGladiator]

How much? Notice any change in how it drives with what I assume is stock Mojave suspension?

$2300 installed. Also came with cross bars that I could install into some t-slots on the top, but don't think I'll do that until I have a reason to. I have Mojave X springs and airlift bags (currently set at the min 5 psi) in the back. Total change in weight from what I had on is <100lbs. Don't notice any difference other than reduced visibility.

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[Mud Pie]

I've replced it twice it can be accomplished in 30min. Max its easy from the wheel well

I read that through the wheel well is easier. I replaced mine from up top and I found that way quite easy. For me, it's a lot easier to work while standing and leaning over than it is to be on my butt squeezed between that annoying flapping fender well liner and the front tire while reaching up.

I had zero obstructions, everything just pulls out of the way (I did use a bungee cord to hold the fuse block up and away) and stays out of the way until you complete. No reaching, getting yourself twisted up trying to reach bolts, replacing broken clips, etc..

Being that I should only have to replace that freaking AUX battery every 3 years or so, I can live with it. I do not use the Auto Start/Stop and just hit the cancel button when I start it up. It was, admittedly, annoying as hell doing it every time, but now it's become 2nd nature, like changing the radio station to a song I like before backing out.

Now my start routine is; unlock doors, get in, press start button, move my hand 6" to the right, hit the kill switch, reach up another 6-8" and press a radio station if the song playing does not suit me. Bring my hand down, pop her in reverse and off I roll. About a 4-5 second startup sequence. All finished before the seat cushion had time to compress from my breakfast-taco-loving butt. Easy-peasy lemon squeezy.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I pulled the tire and sat my butt on my rolly tool cart. Still had to do some bending around but at least every thing was right there in my face and I could see what I was working with.

 

[RudeJeepin]

$2300 installed. Also came with cross bars that I could install into some t-slots on the top, but don't think I'll do that until I have a reason to. I have Mojave X springs and airlift bags (currently set at the min 5 psi) in the back. Total change in weight from what I had on is <100lbs. Don't notice any difference other than reduced visibility.

I'd drop my tonneau in a heartbeat for that price. If only he was closer.

 

[BourbonRunner]

Welp. I got a lot accomplished yesterday and today.

1. Removed the aux battery once and for all and pulled the cable up and slapped her on the positive terminal of the main. Last night I pulled it via the fender liner but couldn't get the cable back up so today I pulled the fuse panel to get access. I don't understand why the hell they use a 7mm bolt in the base of the fuse bracket when everything else there is 10mm. Naturally I apparently have every other socket in the world EXCEPT 7mm but I had a 7mm wrench.

2. Finished my sub panel behind the back seat. Everything works. I now have 2 20a PowerPole plugs, a couple USBC's and a socket for the fridge and whatever else I decide to run. I started a thread about the sub panel and fridge project but need to take more pics to properly update it.

3. Finished the fridge platform. That was a royal pain in the ass and I got to use most of the vocabulary I learned working in kitchens. So that's sort of a plus. I was inspired by @Toytech01 's project and did my own. He got longer bolts to replace the OEM and ran them through the panel. I bought the hardware to do that but I ran into some fitment issues that came from an early mistake. Instead, I secured it using metal strapping using the factory bolts. I used 1/2" baltic and a couple piano hinges to mimic the angle of the base of the seat-- and it worked.

4. I finally did a full system reset to clear out the previous owner's address in the nav system. FWIW if you buy one used its apparently the only way to get it to clear that. Of note: do a reset then a reboot to get all your apps and whatnot back.

The good news is everything works, no CELs, no weird gremlins. Yet.

I wanted to get the Hi Lift on the back molle panel switched onto the side and the ActionTrax mounted (instead of sliding around in the bed) but the skies started to open up and I didn't feel like working in a thunderstorm. Those will become Future Steve problems.

 

[Rusty PW]

Washed and wax the outside. And detailed the inside of the JT. Getting ready to go on a trip. Leaving Wed after work. First stop is Eads Co. for a funeral. Then back track to Branson Mo. for a week vacation.

 

[XraytecH]

Oil Change and Tire Rotation

Tried to upgrade the Sway Bar Links but had fitment issue on the passenger side. Going to call the guys over @SteerSmarts and see if they can clear things up.

 

[LouisvEarlleJT]

Rocktrix bull bar

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Washed and wax the outside. And detailed the inside of the JT. Getting ready to go on a trip. Leaving Wed after work. First stop is Eads Co. for a funeral. Then back track to Branson Mo. for a week vacation.

Branson is fun. Haven’t been there in a couple decades. I was in the world festival thing they do in the theme park every year as a high school student.

 

[JJJeep]

M.O.R.E. step for the youngster.

 

[Stan H]

I read that through the wheel well is easier. I replaced mine from up top and I found that way quite easy. For me, it's a lot easier to work while standing and leaning over than it is to be on my butt squeezed between that annoying flapping fender well liner and the front tire while reaching up.

I had zero obstructions, everything just pulls out of the way (I did use a bungee cord to hold the fuse block up and away) and stays out of the way until you complete. No reaching, getting yourself twisted up trying to reach bolts, replacing broken clips, etc..

Being that I should only have to replace that freaking AUX battery every 3 years or so, I can live with it. I do not use the Auto Start/Stop and just hit the cancel button when I start it up. It was, admittedly, annoying as hell doing it every time, but now it's become 2nd nature, like changing the radio station to a song I like before backing out.

Now my start routine is; unlock doors, get in, press start button, move my hand 6" to the right, hit the kill switch, reach up another 6-8" and press a radio station if the song playing does not suit me. Bring my hand down, pop her in reverse and off I roll. About a 4-5 second startup sequence. All finished before the seat cushion had time to compress from my breakfast-taco-loving butt. Easy-peasy lemon squeezy.

Do you drive in Reverse everywhere ?
Aught to try D go lots faster.

 

[Rusty PW]

Branson is fun. Haven’t been there in a couple decades. I was in the world festival thing they do in the theme park every year as a high school student.

This will be my 4th time to Branson. Always had a good time there.

 

[Callsign_DISCO]

It's a slow build to keep the spend under control, ultimately will add an AEV 2.5" Dual Sport RT lift, tubular nerf bars and in bed JCR molle panel based storage setup with recovery gear, couple rotopax, air compressor, and factory in-bed power - aiming for low weight, low center of gravity, and low drag since we usually pull a trailer.

Last month:

• TygerAuto soft tonneau
• Z Automotive Tazer Mini
• Nilight cowl light mounts (transferred my old 4" ditch lights from JKUR)
• RockTrix Low Bull Bar for Factory Steel Bumper

This month's mods:

• Rough Country Winch Plate for Factory Steel Bumper (really happy with my wiring job)
• Xycle 12,000 lb winch with synthetic rope, BT remote
• AutoVentShades in channel vent visors
• L&B Design Works Topo Vent Decals

Really digging the Gladiator, so much more vehicle than my '10 JKUR, great on the road - heading down to Jeep Branson on Wednesday.

For wiring the winch, I pulled the airbox so I could see and have better access, was able to route away from hot or moving parts, secure it in a couple places to prevent movement/abrasion - really appreciate the battery terminal design and power box location in the JT, makes clean wire installs easy.

 

[slodsm]

Washed a weeks worth of Moab dust off, under the hood, and inside. Changed the oil because that was about 4000 miles worth of abuse. Recentered my drag link because I tweaked it somewhere on hells revenge and my steering wheel was crooked, and found my sector shaft brace had lost a bolt somewhere and put a new one in.

Shes ready to go somewhere else now.

 

[Mud Pie]

It's a slow build to keep the spend under control, ultimately will add an AEV 2.5" Dual Sport RT lift, tubular nerf bars and in bed JCR molle panel based storage setup with recovery gear, couple rotopax, air compressor, and factory in-bed power - aiming for low weight, low center of gravity, and low drag since we usually pull a trailer.

Last month:

• TygerAuto soft tonneau
• Z Automotive Tazer Mini
• Nilight cowl light mounts (transferred my old 4" ditch lights from JKUR)
• RockTrix Low Bull Bar for Factory Steel Bumper

This month's mods:

• Rough Country Winch Plate for Factory Steel Bumper (really happy with my wiring job)
• Xycle 12,000 lb winch with synthetic rope, BT remote
• AutoVentShades in channel vent visors
• L&B Design Works Topo Vent Decals

Really digging the Gladiator, so much more vehicle than my '10 JKUR, great on the road - heading down to Jeep Branson on Wednesday.

For wiring the winch, I pulled the airbox so I could see and have better access, was able to route away from hot or moving parts, secure it in a couple places to prevent movement/abrasion - really appreciate the battery terminal design and power box location in the JT, makes clean wire installs easy.

Nice install, but I have to ask, looking at the tools in the driveway, where did the axe come into play ?

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