What is more Practical- 120V or 12V in Bed?

[Zapper]

My truck does not have the optional inverter and 120V outlet. No problem, I've got an inverter lying around.

Before I wire in the inverter to the spot where the factory 120V outlet normally would be, I am wondering if it is more practical to instead provide 12V via a panel mount Anderson connector there. I'm guessing the Jeep engineers figured it would be good for contractors to power tools on the jobsite, but with only 300W output its not enough to run most tools directly. And I'm not sure if having 120V is really that useful when camping.

I will install the inverter in the truck either way, but I'm leaning towards only having an outlet for it in the cab.

The bed location is really convenient though so I'd like to get your opinions and make the right choice. Is it really practical or especially useful to have 120V in the bed? Or will I be best just having a nice 12v port there?

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[fourfa]

 

[Mr._Bill]

It really just depends on what is needed for your use. The outlet is nice to have, but the 400 watts from the factory inverter is not enough to be very useful.

My first Gladiator had the factory inverter with an outlet in the cab and in the bed. My use for it was to charge a portable power box with a 12v port that the fridge plugged into.

My second Gladiator has the factory inverter with only an outlet in the cab. I could add a bed outlet, but the kit is about $300. Instead of spending that much, I installed a 12v power port and USB ports. The portable power box gets charged using the cab outlet, and the fridge connects to the battery. If it's going to sit overnight, I move the power box to the back to run the fridge and then back to the cab in the morning to charge.

I have a separate 400 watt inverter that I bought for my last truck. I can connect it in the bed if I need 120v back there.

 

[vicsvx]

I don't have the factory outlet... Direct wired to the battery with inline fuse. The outlet is a nilight brand from Amazon. Power switch, voltmeter, 2 USB, and 12v plug. During traveling, the fridge is plugged in... Overnight use jackery.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Char...anty/dp/B0834MLS2X?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

 

[Zapper]

I don't have the factory outlet... Direct wired to the battery with online fuse. The outlet is a nilight brand from Amazon. Power switch, voltmeter, 5 USB, and 12v plug. During traveling, the fridge is plugged in... Overnight use jackery.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Char...anty/dp/B0834MLS2X?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

I really like the panel idea with the voltmeter. I'm not a big fan of the cigarette style plug- having melted a couple in the past, but maybe I can find a 45amp Anderson that would fit in the same space.

 

[Deleted member 52902]

240 volts best.
Seriously - what is right for you may not be what is right for someone else. You need to decide what purpose you have in mind and then does that equipment work on 12 volts, direct current or does it require 120 volts, alternating current. And to that, you need to know if the outlets amperage (current) is enough to work with your device(s).

You may know some or all of what I am about to say but, I will explain this for the benefit of everyone.

If you only have voltage and wattage information for a device, you can simply divide the wattage rating (*) by the voltage to arrive at the amps (amperage, aka current flow, aka "Intensity"). For example, if the device requires indicates it uses 300 watts and it is a 120 volt device, then its 300/120 = 2.5 amps. If the 120 out outlet is rated for 400 watts, then the 300 watt device will work. Now if that is a motorized device, the initial current required to get its motor to turn over can be higher than its "operating" current-draw. So keep that in mind for drill motors, refrigerators that have a motor drive compressor, etc. Same issue with 12 volt, direct current devices.

If the device provides amperage instead of wattage, but your outlet might only tell you its max wattage, no problem. The equivalent wattage (aka power) is P = voltage x amps. Voltage is represented by "E" and amps are represented by the letter "I" (Intensity; Yeah... yet another synonym for amps), so you will normally see this formula written as P=ExI. And then it's just a matter of how these three factors relate to each other to arrive at the variants of the formula when we know two of the factors, so we can arrive at the third unknown factor.

Finally, the power available for devices we might like to plug in, is typically limited to fairly low capability. At least in most vehicles that have power outlets. Some of the EV vehicles can provide a lot more power. I believe starting with the 2023+ 4xE model of the JL Wrangler, can provide more 12 volt power output connectivity than the in-dash or truck bed outlets in the ICE-only engined model JL Wranglers. JT Gladiators being ICE-only engined at this time, only provide similar in-dash and bed external power capability. Whether the Gladiator line continues to exist in 2025 or later, we shall see. Many factors in the US market (in particular) are going to require a lot of revamping. But you have a '21 Gladiator so you can make some use of factory options. Or look for 3rd party solutions that can give you more power. The instant easy way is to buy a gas powered generator you can set in the truck bed. Takes up room, yes. But you can get these that can provide 120 VAC from 1,000 or so, to several more-thousands of watts output. Cheap generators = cheap results, possibly for less time than a quality name brand that will cost you more. It's also a thief-attractive device so you must heavy duty secure it in place. A cheaper no-name-brand model might in this case, be a best choice. Lots of ways to get mobile power these days.

 

[Jaxmax]

What are you planning on using in your bed , you can get 12volt frying pans, fridges, coffee pots and about the only things that have a problem running on a 120v inverter would be AC and heaters, as the wattage is up there. There are a lot of guys that have the outlet in bed and plug their fridge in so that when truck is running the fridge is getting power off the truck, when truck is off they have a battery system for the things they want and the fridge will switch over to 12v when the 120v outlet loses power , that is a good plan. Everytime you change electric power voltage there is a loss, you see it in the heat on the inverter, if the fridge runs on 12v and truck has no problem charging it while driving, why use an inverter at all?
I have a dual battery system under the hood that runs my ARB fridge all the time, if truck is running it is charging the battery, I also have a solar panel on my cap that puts out more then the fridge draws, and typically at end of sunlight I have a fully charge aux. battery.
It comes down to you, what do you plan to plug in? I decided there is nothing 120v I would plug in and I still have the outlet at rear seat if needed, but have not used it in the four years I have my Glady…..Jack

 

[Lost1wing]

I would spend a little time thinking about the use intended and the equipment you could plug in. Do you already have 12v gear or 120v gear?

It is really just a preference decision. I had questioned installing the 120v bed outlet. I even purchased the outlet. I had to order the rear harness, dash panel and the switch. They were on backorder. After months of waiting, I started thinking about the useless 400watt inverter. I decided, that 12vdc was my best route. The one thing that I was hoping to plug in also had a 12vdc power option.

If you have a large enough inverter that can actually do something, that .ifht make better sense to you.

 

[BearFootSam]

IMO 12v to the bed is going to be most versatile. If you have the AUX switch package, I will advocate for running one of the 40-amp circuits to the bed terminating with a suitably rated weather sealed connector.

Then, should you desire AC, a Li-ion battery in a weather box with a DC-DC charger and inverter mounted are your solution. AUX 40-amp circuit performs charging duties for the Li-ion battery thus avoiding having to run the engine every time you want to use 120v AC.

With a 100 Ah li-ion battery and inverter (reputable manufacturer) being a several hundred-dollar investment, not having it permanently mounted affords you the option to remove it from the vehicle when not needed to avoid theft.

I carried such a battery on a camping trip a few weeks ago and stored it in the bed near the cab behind all our big plastic storage bins. With the tailgate locked and the half height bed rack on, the only means to remove the battery from the truck would be to cut apart the bins that otherwise are too large to exit between the top of the tailgate and underneath the rack/RTT.

Since most automotive/overlanding accessories are 12v, provisioning a DC outlet to the bed gives you access to power a portable pump, tire inflator, lighting or other accessory of choice. You could even run in series with the battery while charging with a cut-off circuit on the AUX switch side. Then, if you wanted to run a 12v device with a big startup load, the battery serves as a buffer to the vehicles 12v system.

The 100Ah renogy battery found has some nice features: Bluetooth current, voltage and temperature interface. Built in heater (li-ion batteries cannot generally be charged below freezing without supplementary heating). And, it has good protection circuitry for over voltage/current/discharge/temp.

 

[Radio Guy]

The trailer socket at the rear has 12v at fairly high current and I wired a trailer plug with the typical Anderson Power Poles used with radio equipment. I’ve powered many ham radios and also charged the battery via solar panels using the trailer socket.

 

[fourfa]

Trailer socket is fused at 30A. F36 or F37, I think. Pretty easy to get a harness that plugs inline between the vehicle harness and the trailer harness (behind the rear bumper) and tee the 12V hot up into the bed through one of the access ports in the back corners of the bed

 

[Radio Guy]

Trailer socket is fused at 30A. F36 or F37, I think. Pretty easy to get a harness that plugs inline between the vehicle harness and the trailer harness (behind the rear bumper) and tee the 12V hot up into the bed through one of the access ports in the back corners of the bed

Here is a trailer plug similar to what I bought then I used about 2ft of 10ga red/black pair to a 45A Anderson Power Pole. Its a handy power adapter for solar panels and ham radio/geek equipment.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3873775358...CbUXgL/cBI3rpeKsYoxfqIvQ==|tkp:Bk9SR5D32cy9ZA

 

[danimal2000]

i was going to do one of those 4 device panel things like the niilight mentioned, but then found this, which i like a lot better as it's cleaner install, provides basically the same thing, minus the cigarette port which i knew i wouldn't use anyway. fusetapped to fuse 52 which was basically unused after replacing my cigarette lighter 12v with mopar brake controller

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM3S5463

drilled a 1" or so hole thru the plastic plug where the factory outlet would go, super clean

 

[Zapper]

Trailer socket is fused at 30A. F36 or F37, I think. Pretty easy to get a harness that plugs inline between the vehicle harness and the trailer harness (behind the rear bumper) and tee the 12V hot up into the bed through one of the access ports in the back corners of the bed

Oh wow, that's a really good idea. Thanks!

 

[Zapper]

I ended up buying a weatherproof dual 50amp Anderson connector from Amazon. It mounted nicely by cutting a square hole in the blanking plate for the 120v outlet in the bed.

I've got a red plug and a grey one installed. One will be for for solar panel input, and the other is power from my lithium "house" battery. The nice thing with these connectors is each color is keyed differently, so no chance that I will plug things into the wrong port.

I'll be putting another dual plug at the front of the bed as well.

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