Wheel spacer questions

[XJADDICTION]

Get good quality hub centric spacers. You will need the blue loctite on the spacer bolts only. Check tightness every oil change 5000 miles for me. If they are loose or move when checking I will take that lug off and put new
Blue loctite on. I have used the hub centric spacers for 10+ years with no problems.

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[KurtP]

I’m pretty certain you can’t run any spacer below 1.75” with out trimming your studs to fit properly.
If You must run spacers look into spideryrax

if you want to keep your same style wheel, you could probably sale your setup now and purchase the JK AEV borah wheels with less backspacing.
I believe, if I remember correctly they are at your minimum requirement.

http://www.spidertrax.com/Jeep-JL-WK2-1.75-Thick-Wheel-Spacers?sc=2&category=28616

Thanks, I looked at those first but they aren't out far enough. I'm looking at other drag link flips to see if I can get it to clear. I also might just call it good, because there's nothing wrong, I'm just being anal knowing that there IS an improvement, even if small, from flipping the drag link. In reality, the geometry on these JL/JT fronts isn't that bad at all lifted at this height.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

nah that was someone else in a thread we both replied to. My truck drives great, steering is fine, again, I'm just looking to be exceedingly specific as to what the build is.

Wheel spacers aren't going to hurt nothing if you get the right ones. Some don't like them but it's no different than running wheels with more back spacing, it's the exact same. In 20 plus years on owning jeeps I've never saw a wheel spacers cause a problem if you get the ones I mentioned. The problems people refer to are the slide on ones, those are crap. I have never saw or heard of anyone saying they had a issue out of the particular wheels spacers I mentioned. I wouldn't worry about it to much if you decide to go with some.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Some 1" spacers, as mentioned, will probably require modifying your stock studs.

https://www.titanwheelaccessories.c...ers~yj_1-wheel-spacers&variant=29222123438103

It's Possible that you OEM Studs are longer than the spacer is thick, if so you have a few options:

1. Your lugs studs will need to be shortened by grinding them down
2. You can replace your studs will shorter studs
3. if you wheels have cavities in the backside, between the mounting holes, then you should be OK (will need to make sure flush)
4. ALWAYS ENSURE THAT THERE IS NO GAP BETWEEN THE SPACERS AND THE HUB OF THE WHEELS

 

[KurtP]

Wheel spacers aren't going to hurt nothing if you get the right ones. Some don't like them but it's no different than running wheels with more back spacing, it's the exact same. In 20 plus years on owning jeeps I've never saw a wheel spacers cause a problem if you get the ones I mentioned. The problems people refer to are the slide on ones, those are crap. I have never saw or heard of anyone saying they had a issue out of the particular wheels spacers I mentioned. I wouldn't worry about it to much if you decide to go with some.

Some 1" spacers, as mentioned, will probably require modifying your stock lugs.

https://www.titanwheelaccessories.c...ers~yj_1-wheel-spacers&variant=29222123438103

It's Possible that you OEM Studs are longer than the spacer is thick, if so you have a few options:

1. Your lugs studs will need to be shortened by grinding them down
2. You can replace your studs will shorter studs
3. if you wheels have cavities in the backside, between the mounting holes, then you should be OK (will need to make sure flush)
4. ALWAYS ENSURE THAT THERE IS NO GAP BETWEEN THE SPACERS AND THE HUB OF THE WHEELS

thanks guys. I think I'm going to roll this as it is for a bit before making major changes to this set up. I'm overall really happy with how the truck came out, how it looks, how it rides, and how it drives. Going to roll it as is and reflect on whether or not this is something i actually want to do, or forcing myself to do because it's what was in my head at the start.

The synergy track bar relocation bracket is on back order for at least 8 weeks anyway, so there's no rush.

Appreciate all the input, all around. Very helpful.

 

[Rubi-Zero]

Thanks, I looked at those first but they aren't out far enough. I'm looking at other drag link flips to see if I can get it to clear. I also might just call it good, because there's nothing wrong, I'm just being anal.

what is not out far enough? The JK borah’s or the Spidertrax spacers.
I’m going to assume you mean the borah wheels.
I just looked them up and there is conflicting data on the internet about the back spacing on those and I’m not sure why... some places list them as 4.9
Some say 4.59 kind of strange.

 

[KurtP]

what is not out far enough? The JK borah’s or the Spidertrax spacers.
I’m going to assume you mean the borah wheels.
I just looked them up and there is conflicting data on the internet about the back spacing on those and I’m not sure why... some places list them as 4.9
Some say 4.59 kind of strange.

the wheels. AEV lists the backspacing at 4.9, so still a 1/4 inch short +/- from what I'd need. I've gotten zero flack from my woman on this endeavor; to include the entire install process and the mess load of terrible laundry my buddy and I left her with. I come back with "selling and buying new wheels", that'd rightfully send her round the twist.

I'm going to research other drag link flip possibilities; consider the 1" titan spacers; and consider if I even need to do this bullshit at all. Come back around to it in 2-3 months and decide. Track bar bracket is out of stock until then anyway.

 

[Jeepmonster]

I went with 1.5" hubcentric spacers, and they are fine. I was comfortable with aluminum. BORA also sells steel ones. I used them on my JK, they were perfectly fine. Take a look at BORA. They sell them in different thicknesses and material (very high quality). Although the 1.5" spacers made the factory studs stick out a bit, I didn't have to cut or grind anything, as the factory wheels had "pockets" on the back side (not flush), so you may want to check your existing wheels and see if it also has pockets or if it is flush.

https://www.motorsport-tech.com/bora.html

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-do-to-your-gladiator-today.23705/post-621911

 

[j.o.y.ride]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/raised-trackbar-bracket-and-draglink-flip.26339/

Check what Rock Krawler themselves say re: draglink flip. You are at 2-2.5" of lift, Rock Krawler looks like they advise to not flip the draglink at that height.

Maybe your simple answer is, don't flip the draglink.

I'd use some caution on a drag link flip, JL's and JT's do not play by the same rules as a JK did and top mounting a drag link can create some real limits to uptravel. We don't recommend high steer for anything less than 4.5" because the gain is not worth the sacrifice in performance.

If you're going to notch the frame, disregard all of that and go for high steer.

 

[KurtP]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/raised-trackbar-bracket-and-draglink-flip.26339/

Check what Rock Krawler themselves say re: draglink flip. You are at 2-2.5" of lift, Rock Krawler looks like they advise to not flip the draglink at that height.

Maybe your simple answer is, don't flip the draglink.

Thanks for the link. Looks like they are concerned about the uptravel issue with the track bar being relocated up higher and contacting the frame on full upstroke. Something to consider for sure.

 

[Rubi-Zero]

oh I didn't realize you were at 2-2.5" of lift. I would not advise to do a drag link flip. I know you just want the best setup for your Gladiator and I get that but the benefits here do not out way what you are sacrificing with up travel on your mojave.

 

[Rubi-Zero]

LOL posted as i was typing this out

 

[KurtP]

oh I didn't realize you were at 2-2.5" of lift. I would not advise to do a drag link flip. I know you just want the best setup for your Gladiator and I get that but the benefits here do not out way what you are sacrificing with up travel on your mojave.

It's sitting 3-3.25"" above a rubicon front. It's at the bare minimum requirement, I agree, but again, I prioritize vehicle dynamics above articulation....it's just my personal choice on what I need out of the truck.

As I see it, I might be able to reduce the bump stop spacer from 3" down to 2" and leave the drag link as it is; or come up with a way to flip it if I do the spacers. Im not going to make any more changes for 2-3 months as I drive this as it is.

I agree with all that this is likely a solution in search of a problem, because the truck drives fucking great as it is.

 

[KurtP]

The more I read, the more I lean towards leaving the steering as is and possibly adjusting the bump stop size. Even ROAM offroad is telling me their high clearance drag link flip kit is likely not worth the money I'd spend given my current set up, and if a place cautions you against spending money with them; I'll call that a clue.

The more complete fabtec Mojave specific kit does a front track bar bracket with a drag link flip, so they found some value in doing it, which is why it's a 3" bump stop spacer up front instead of a 2".

 

[j.o.y.ride]

It's sitting 3-3.25"" above a rubicon front. It's at the bare minimum requirement, I agree, but again, I prioritize vehicle dynamics above articulation....it's just my personal choice on what I need out of the truck.

As I see it, I can reduce the bump stop spacer from 3" down to 2" and leave the drag link as it is; or come up with a way to flip it if I do the spacers. Im not going to make any more changes for 2-3 months as I drive this as it is.

I agree with all that this is likely a solution in search of a problem, because the truck drives fucking great as it is.

Before changing the bump stop spacer you will want to verify that you won't be over compressing the shock if you hit the bump stops, or over extending it with flexion on the opposite side. No spacer will indeed increase travel, but it may be too much for your extremely expensive shocks.

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