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Will MPG be much lower with 4.10 compared to 3.73 running stock tire size or up to 32"?
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Panthers65
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I'd say definitely not.
What hurts the JL and JT more than anything else is its aerodynamics. If you are traveling at a fast enough speed that 4.10's would be over-reving, you're MPG has already tanked because of the wind resistance.
on the flip side you'll get slightly better MPGs around town because your Jeep won't have to work quite as hard when accelerating.
Jeeps need to be geared deeper.
What hurts the JL and JT more than anything else is its aerodynamics. If you are traveling at a fast enough speed that 4.10's would be over-reving, you're MPG has already tanked because of the wind resistance.
on the flip side you'll get slightly better MPGs around town because your Jeep won't have to work quite as hard when accelerating.
Jeeps need to be geared deeper.
ShadowsPapa
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One must realize there's a reason for the higher gears (3.73, etc.) - it's mpg.
Go to Chevy trucks and you'll find those with better mpg ratings have higher ratios, those for towing have lower ratios.
Same with any car - once they started caring about mpg, the gear ratios went up and the RPM went down and higher over-drives were introduced.
If it wasn't for mpg - then ALL Gladiators would have the same lower gear ratios.
Go to Chevy trucks and you'll find those with better mpg ratings have higher ratios, those for towing have lower ratios.
Same with any car - once they started caring about mpg, the gear ratios went up and the RPM went down and higher over-drives were introduced.
If it wasn't for mpg - then ALL Gladiators would have the same lower gear ratios.
JW Jeep
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Well I get 22 mpg around town and as much as 26 on the interstate with an overland with the 373 s. In higher elevation here in Colorado. Our interstate is 70 and 80 mph. I love my 3.73s but if you want bigger tires go with the 4:10 s.
Dougstdig
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Okay...I'm going to be the unpopular one here and I can't believe I'm going to say the following...
When I made my mind up on getting what I did, it was a JTRD or nothing. I wanted the option and have the intent to do a clean but VERY functional build. There were too many options on the vehicle I found that were must haves, several I didn't want, and we were on the verge of rates going up.
In your initial post you gave some very specific parameters that you were going to have it remain stock with just a minimal increase in tire size. Here it is folks...If I were you, I'd consider the Tacoma or possibly GM Colorado/Canyon. The type of recreational driving you're talking about can be easily done by all 3 manufacturers, but I feel the Toyota would probably be more comfortable, and they have a history of being exceptional vehicles. The Gladiator in my eyes is excellent and can-do somethings better than the others, especially when modified. Your intent of your future vehicle is totally different.
Part of owning a TJ, LJ, KJ, JL and TJ is knowing things will crop up that you'll have to fix or modify. You can do searches though out this forum and others and pick up on the ones that didn't realize this before purchasing and end up pissing and moaning that their vehicle sucks, because of a paint blemish, there's a surface rusted weld, it steers funny...etc. I know sometime down the road I may have a Death-wobble issue. I know I may have leaking axle issues. I know I may have an interior leak issue. Sounds strange, but this is part of the charm of having a point and shoot vehicle, especially when it's built or modified to help provide insurance that I'll get home on that rare occasion that I get to get away. Oh yeah...and modding the JT...I don't think its ever been easier to mod a factory vehicle or be able to mod it this inexpensively. I don't want the feeling of ...well I don't want to go down that trail or attempt something because of what ever. Again, based on YOUR parameters, it doesn't sound that this is the type of vehicle you're looking for. If I had your parameters, I'd go with the Tacoma or 4-runner. My $0.02.
...And if anyone ever says I said this I'll deny it to the grave!
If I haven't scared you away yet, I say go for the 4.10's. I say this because many people that say they're not going to mod end up doing so once the bug bites them. With the 4.10's comes heavier duty wider axles. Additionally, better cooling and a couple of other things I'm probably leaving out. If you do some relatively minor mods, you can go to 35's on a non-Rubi or Mohave. Already having the 4.10's just saved you 1800 to 2K in having to upgrade your axle gearing.
In this forum, I've posted about a buddy of mine that has a JL sport. He got on Facebook market place and picked up takeoff LED headlights, Highrise fender flairs, Rubi rails (ditched the sport steps and now it’s easier to get in and out of) and a Rubicon suspension off of a diesel JL. He didn't have the larger axles, so he had to install wheel spacers, but installed 35 - 11.5 - 17 tires. He and his wife love it. It's actually hers. He stated that it handles and rides far better than when it was stock. In addition to the Rubicon springs which add about an inch over the sport/overland vehicles, the fact that they were springs out of a Rubicon addressed his nose down rake due to his steel bumper and winch. Not including the price of the tires, he probably has 1k in it. Not including a Rubicon disconnecting anti-sway bar he either got for free or very cheap. No he didn't have the electronics to operate it like a Rubicon, so he spend a little and got the manual bypass to eliminate the need...and there's no way for it to short out if/when he gets water in the electronics. He's a tinkerer. It relieves stress. Oh yeah, it wasn't about the $$$. He's got plenty. This is just what wanted to do.
You can be a mechanical idiot and work on these vehicles with YouTube videos and plenty of us on the forums to help you through the tough spots. It truly is a lifestyle vehicle. Part of the charm. So, if the story of my buddy didn't in any way tickle your fancy, I'd strongly recommend going with something else.
When I made my mind up on getting what I did, it was a JTRD or nothing. I wanted the option and have the intent to do a clean but VERY functional build. There were too many options on the vehicle I found that were must haves, several I didn't want, and we were on the verge of rates going up.
In your initial post you gave some very specific parameters that you were going to have it remain stock with just a minimal increase in tire size. Here it is folks...If I were you, I'd consider the Tacoma or possibly GM Colorado/Canyon. The type of recreational driving you're talking about can be easily done by all 3 manufacturers, but I feel the Toyota would probably be more comfortable, and they have a history of being exceptional vehicles. The Gladiator in my eyes is excellent and can-do somethings better than the others, especially when modified. Your intent of your future vehicle is totally different.
Part of owning a TJ, LJ, KJ, JL and TJ is knowing things will crop up that you'll have to fix or modify. You can do searches though out this forum and others and pick up on the ones that didn't realize this before purchasing and end up pissing and moaning that their vehicle sucks, because of a paint blemish, there's a surface rusted weld, it steers funny...etc. I know sometime down the road I may have a Death-wobble issue. I know I may have leaking axle issues. I know I may have an interior leak issue. Sounds strange, but this is part of the charm of having a point and shoot vehicle, especially when it's built or modified to help provide insurance that I'll get home on that rare occasion that I get to get away. Oh yeah...and modding the JT...I don't think its ever been easier to mod a factory vehicle or be able to mod it this inexpensively. I don't want the feeling of ...well I don't want to go down that trail or attempt something because of what ever. Again, based on YOUR parameters, it doesn't sound that this is the type of vehicle you're looking for. If I had your parameters, I'd go with the Tacoma or 4-runner. My $0.02.
...And if anyone ever says I said this I'll deny it to the grave!
If I haven't scared you away yet, I say go for the 4.10's. I say this because many people that say they're not going to mod end up doing so once the bug bites them. With the 4.10's comes heavier duty wider axles. Additionally, better cooling and a couple of other things I'm probably leaving out. If you do some relatively minor mods, you can go to 35's on a non-Rubi or Mohave. Already having the 4.10's just saved you 1800 to 2K in having to upgrade your axle gearing.
In this forum, I've posted about a buddy of mine that has a JL sport. He got on Facebook market place and picked up takeoff LED headlights, Highrise fender flairs, Rubi rails (ditched the sport steps and now it’s easier to get in and out of) and a Rubicon suspension off of a diesel JL. He didn't have the larger axles, so he had to install wheel spacers, but installed 35 - 11.5 - 17 tires. He and his wife love it. It's actually hers. He stated that it handles and rides far better than when it was stock. In addition to the Rubicon springs which add about an inch over the sport/overland vehicles, the fact that they were springs out of a Rubicon addressed his nose down rake due to his steel bumper and winch. Not including the price of the tires, he probably has 1k in it. Not including a Rubicon disconnecting anti-sway bar he either got for free or very cheap. No he didn't have the electronics to operate it like a Rubicon, so he spend a little and got the manual bypass to eliminate the need...and there's no way for it to short out if/when he gets water in the electronics. He's a tinkerer. It relieves stress. Oh yeah, it wasn't about the $$$. He's got plenty. This is just what wanted to do.
You can be a mechanical idiot and work on these vehicles with YouTube videos and plenty of us on the forums to help you through the tough spots. It truly is a lifestyle vehicle. Part of the charm. So, if the story of my buddy didn't in any way tickle your fancy, I'd strongly recommend going with something else.
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jeepstertim
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This thread refers to 'overdrive' gears in a couple of posts and I'm not convinced they are, we are just making excuses for an engine with low torque...do JTD owners refer to 7th or 8th as overdrive gears?
Being a Brit and having owned several British '60s and 70s cars with actual overdrives, I'd maintain that 7th and 8th are just 2 gears in an 8 speed box and the Jeep should be able to use them all and not drop to 7th in a headwind.
Thoughts?
Being a Brit and having owned several British '60s and 70s cars with actual overdrives, I'd maintain that 7th and 8th are just 2 gears in an 8 speed box and the Jeep should be able to use them all and not drop to 7th in a headwind.
Thoughts?
Jteakus
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Do not overlook you will be getting a much stronger front axle and a little wider stance with the max tow. I'm gonna say you will probably go with an upsize tire after awhile and the 4.10's will be perfect. There is also resale value to consider. My .02
hikernbackpacker
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Thanks again for all the additional great information and details provided by these well informed posts. I will consider all of it as I weigh my options in deciding if to get the Gladiator, stay with what I have, or get something else.
I currently have a 2018 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.7L V8 Hemi in it. I acquired it in the fall of 2019 as I had never owned or driven one and wanted to see what it was like. Prior to that for just over 20 years I had driven two different Jeep Wranglers, 2 door models, that were soft tops. I loved the Wranglers but eventually needed more room than the 2 door models have. I do a lot of hiking and backpacking and in a 2 door vehicle you can only fit a very limited number of people and their fully loaded backpacks in it.
The Ram is fantastic, ample power and tons of room, rides and drives much like my parents 1972 New Yorker did back in the day when I took my drivers test in it with its 440 cubic inch V8 engine. It does take some getting used to in terms of navigating tight turns in city driving compared to the much shorter wheel base 2 door Wranglers of my past. It's MPG is roughly what I was getting from my wranglers. I tend to stick with what the manufacturer recommends for fuel and for the Ram's Hemi it is the 89 octane. In the city where I live and work the current price of 89 runs between 30 and 40 some odd cents per gallon more than the 87 octane that is recommended for the Gladiator engine. So even though the MPG between the two is reported about the same, bit by bit over time I could save a good bit by not paying the difference for the higher octane fuel.
I have gotten used to the flexibility of having a pickup truck over not having one and that's why I haven't looked at going back to the Wrangler even a 4 door version. For the kinds of things that I have hauled, a mid-sized pickup like the Gladiator would work just fine. It also seems to be quite the capable unit for overlanding based on some of the videos that I have seen. Overlanding is just something that I have recently discovered existed and see it as a way to expand upon the amount of the great outdoors that I can see and enjoy beyond my day hiking and multi-night backpacking. I'd guess that if I like overlanding as much as I think I will that eventually I would need bigger tires that what I originally stated to be able to make some of the journeys, especially in the western US to see some of those amazing sites.
I currently have a 2018 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.7L V8 Hemi in it. I acquired it in the fall of 2019 as I had never owned or driven one and wanted to see what it was like. Prior to that for just over 20 years I had driven two different Jeep Wranglers, 2 door models, that were soft tops. I loved the Wranglers but eventually needed more room than the 2 door models have. I do a lot of hiking and backpacking and in a 2 door vehicle you can only fit a very limited number of people and their fully loaded backpacks in it.
The Ram is fantastic, ample power and tons of room, rides and drives much like my parents 1972 New Yorker did back in the day when I took my drivers test in it with its 440 cubic inch V8 engine. It does take some getting used to in terms of navigating tight turns in city driving compared to the much shorter wheel base 2 door Wranglers of my past. It's MPG is roughly what I was getting from my wranglers. I tend to stick with what the manufacturer recommends for fuel and for the Ram's Hemi it is the 89 octane. In the city where I live and work the current price of 89 runs between 30 and 40 some odd cents per gallon more than the 87 octane that is recommended for the Gladiator engine. So even though the MPG between the two is reported about the same, bit by bit over time I could save a good bit by not paying the difference for the higher octane fuel.
I have gotten used to the flexibility of having a pickup truck over not having one and that's why I haven't looked at going back to the Wrangler even a 4 door version. For the kinds of things that I have hauled, a mid-sized pickup like the Gladiator would work just fine. It also seems to be quite the capable unit for overlanding based on some of the videos that I have seen. Overlanding is just something that I have recently discovered existed and see it as a way to expand upon the amount of the great outdoors that I can see and enjoy beyond my day hiking and multi-night backpacking. I'd guess that if I like overlanding as much as I think I will that eventually I would need bigger tires that what I originally stated to be able to make some of the journeys, especially in the western US to see some of those amazing sites.
JoeJeep74
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I have a 21 Sport S Max Tow AT, hardtop. Truck is not lifted and I put Michelin LTX M/S stock size tires on it. get 15-21 mpg city/highway. When I tow my 15’ antique wood outboard, 1500 lbs max , my mileage doesn’t seem to drop. I like the crisper throttle response from the 4.10 gears. I vote for the Max Tow option for your intended usage.
hikernbackpacker
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Thanks for the feedback. I am not as apprehensive now about the gearing as when I first asked the question as the posts have helped educate me in an area that I really didn't have any experience or knowledge in before.I have a 21 Sport S Max Tow AT, hardtop. Truck is not lifted and I put Michelin LTX M/S stock size tires on it. get 15-21 mpg city/highway. When I tow my 15’ antique wood outboard, 1500 lbs max , my mileage doesn’t seem to drop. I like the crisper throttle response from the 4.10 gears. I vote for the Max Tow option for your intended usage.
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