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Trauma PA

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I installed the rear spacers today. I did everything by the book and it was actually really easy.
Support frame
Remove tires
Remove lower shock mounts
Remove upper sway bar bolts
Remove plastic isolators from bottom of springs
Insert spacers
Bolt back up
I was really careful with the springs. I made sure the upper bushing was in the correct location and the coil was clocked in it’s location. The only thing I noticed was the bottom of the coils aren’t clocked the same on either side, but I figured that doesn’t matter when the weight of the truck is on it. The top is perfect so I went with that.
Anyways, I take it out in the street and the passenger side was sitting an inch higher than the driver side. WTF? Maybe it needs to settle in? I take it for a drive and it’s still 1/2 inch off. With less than half a tank of gas, I decided to fill it up to see if that helps. Now it’s 1/8 lower on the passenger side. Almost perfect but I’ll keep an eye on it. I checked everything multiple times and even torqued all the bolts correctly. Anyone else have experience with this? Thanks for reading my novel LOL.
Before
View attachment 241963
After
View attachment 241964
I’ve installed that same spacer 3 different occasions. Two on Rubicons and one on a Sport. I wouldn’t think the Mojave would be any different. Sounds like you did everything correctly. The amount of fuel in your tank is most likely explanation.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I’ve installed that same spacer 3 different occasions. Two on Rubicons and one on a Sport. I wouldn’t think the Mojave would be any different. Sounds like you did everything correctly. The amount of fuel in your tank is most likely explanation.
Obviously more clearance on the Mojave. I had a heck of a time getting the Overland springs out back there - they are long. The brake lines almost weren't long enough. I had to bend the steel lines down to keep from pulling the rubber lines apart while I got enough clearance to get the Overland rears out. There's no way a person could have gotten spacers in there without some leverage on the springs. With the max tow springs in there, though, it was pretty east to hold the springs up and put the spacers in. Overland springs may be "soft" but they are long. I'd bet it was a lot easier to put the spacers in that Mojave than it would have been to put them in an Overland with the stock OVerland springs.
 

ShadowsPapa

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It was pretty easy. I’m guessing all the joints need to settle in after torquing them down
If everything is torqued while the truck is settled sitting on the ground, the bushings would all be relaxed and in their natural position. Springs may set a big, but the reason for torqueing joints with the wheels on the ground is to ensure no tension on the bushings. The bushings would be sitting in the joints with no preload, exactly as they would be in a package or box.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Maybe tomorrow I’ll go out and loosen and retighten everything
That would be wise.
Maybe I'm preachin' to the choir - but if things are tightened when the wheels are off the ground and the suspension is "drooping", the bushings are locked in place. When let down with wheels on, things are pushed up and the bushings are now twisted, preloaded, and will hold things up a bit. Yes, may settle over time, but now the bushings have a twist, are stressed, won't last as long and it changes how things behave.

When making any changes to final ride height, be it springs, spacers, whatever, joints should be loosened and then re-torqued when it's at the new final ride height. Otherwise there's tension on the bushings in control arms, track bars, and so on.
 

ShadowsPapa

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shaken not stirred,
LOL Love it!

I forgot to mention that part - do jounce, shake, whatever, to get things settled into place. You nailed it.
 

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It's nice when you can draw a totally straight line horizontally through tow vehicle and trailer and everything is like you've done it with a straight edge.
 

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Nice write up Bobby, I am installing these on Friday . My canopy seems to push the rear down a bit.
 
 







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