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Flanders

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Noco does not disclose any useful details of their charging algorithms. This puffery is why I don't own a Noco charger.
the charger utilizes multilayered charging profiles to fully recapture capacity and optimize the specific gravity of the battery for increased run time and performance
Yet I have in hand a Genius 10 and I can't deny its pleasing heft. Let us prepare to grapple with the ineffable itself, and see if we may not eff it after all.

This is a constant-current charger. It has 6 charging currents. Each current has a voltage cutoff. When the voltage rises to the cutoff, it drops to the next lower current.

Once it finishes at its lowest charging current it shuts off. The top green light on the charge meter goes solid. No current flows in this dormant state. The battery voltage slowly falls to 12.875V, at which point the charging cycle starts again at the lowest current. The green light pulses until it reaches its voltage limit and goes dormant again. This cycle repeats indefinitely.

Current (A)
Cutoff (V) (50-55F)
9.66​
?​
7.20​
?​
4.78​
14.60​
3.32​
14.68​
1.39​
14.75​
0.32​
15.05​
0​
12.875​

These measurements were taken in AGM mode. The voltages for higher currents are not accurate because the NG10 has temperature compensation and it warmed up noticeably as it charged at high currents and cooled during the low/no current stages.

At startup, the NG10 tests currents for 14.5s each, starting with 1.39A and increasing until it sees a sharp rise in voltage. It starts charging about two levels below that. If it gets to its max current without voltage spiking then it stays with that.

The charger undoubtedly uses other factors to determine transitions between currents. Time limits, for one. But that's the general shape of it. Let's see it in action.

The JT sat for 2 days. I turned on the headlights for 8 minutes, waited an hour for it to go into its deepest sleep state and plugged in the NG10. The first 100 seconds shows the startup sequence.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T0_1a


This was actually the start of a 2000-second capture.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T0a


I barely caught the next step down, to 0.32A at 14.75V.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T1a


It took another 5000s at 0.32A to finish, at 15.05V.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T2a


That voltage dip around 900s is some system in the Jeep waking up. This happens every 12 hours. The Noco didn't react.

The indicator light went solid green and nothing happened for about 12 hours. The charger is off. Eventually the battery fell to 12.875V. I only caught the start of the first re-up.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T3a


The next re-up came a couple of hours later. Charging lasted about 16 minutes.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T4a


Subsequent re-ups all have the same shape, but they get shorter and more frequent. It takes less time at 0.32A to get to 15.05V, and it remains above 12.875V for a shorter time.

After two days of this, the re-ups are happening every 45 minutes and lasting only about 3 minutes.
Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review T17


On the third day I disconnected the Noco and finished charging with a power supply. It didn't take any charge to speak of. The NG10 got it done.

Apparently, I have a lot more to say about the Genius 10.
  1. Regulation is excellent. I never saw any oscillation.

  2. Power supply mode works up to 10A, at least. It's about 13.85V open circuit and 13.25V with 10A load. The difference can be attributed to voltage drop over the permanently attached wires. It won't enter power supply mode while connected to a battery, but you can put it in power supply mode and then connect it to a battery to float charge. It would be best to bring the battery up to 13.8V before connecting to avoid arcing.

  3. Turning on the headlights when it was re-upping at 0.32A caused it to transition to max current. I only had a DC clamp meter on it, but it looked like a regular charge cycle.

  4. The voltage goes higher than I would like, 15.05V at 50-55F. I also observed 14.64V at ~95F and 14.75-14.80V at ~85F. One end of the charger gets hotter than the other so the temperatures involve some guesswork. The OEM battery has a sticker:
    Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review limit.charge.voltag


    I'm not crazy about a maintainer that pulls my battery up to 15V about 30 times a day.

  5. I took me several tries to get NG10 to show its range. In my normal use case, a vehicle that's been sitting a week or so, it immediately settles on its lowest current. It takes a long time to charge 2-3Ah at 0.32A. The battery would accept the next higher current, 1.39A, for 30 minutes at least, but the NG10 settles on one level lower. The trick to getting greater charge acceptance was a recent discharge of the battery, i.e., by turning on the headlights shortly before charging. Same discharge in Ah as from sitting a week, but fresh.

  6. The NG10 has no float stage. It turns off completely until the battery falls below 12.875V at 50-55F. The voltage threshold does not appear to be temperature-compensated.

  7. The minimum current, 320mA, is higher than I would like. It's typical for charge acceptance of a lead acid battery that's sat awhile to fall below 300mA at 13.8V float, and continue falling slowly to 50mA over several days. The NG10 is going to need a lot of re-up cycles and a lot of time above 14.5V to do what a float charger can, if it can do it at all.

  8. The 4-LED meter doesn't give useful information about the battery's SoC. It's pure fiction as far as I can tell. All of my batteries were above 95% SoC but the NG10 progressed from 25% as if it were doing a really great job charging at 0.32A.

  9. One thing appears to be true, in AGM mode at least: When the bottom 3 LEDs are off and the top green is lit solid, that means the charger's most recent activity was charging at 0.32A until the battery came up to temperature-compensated 14.8V, and now it's off and waiting for the battery to fall below 12.875V.

  10. The 1A version would probably be a better fit for me; I don't need a 10A charger to output 0.32A. I expect the 1A version has a lower minimum current and would probably charge my batteries at 1A for awhile. Noco doesn't disclose those details.

Edit: I tried again later in this thread to get the Noco Genius 10 to charge a normally discharged Jeep at higher current than its 0.32A minimum, this time with no shunt resistor. Same result. The battery would have happily accepted 3.3A at 13.5V for awhile, but the Noco only charged at 0.32A.
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Rob_R

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Thanks for your detailed analysis on the NOCO Genius 10. I have a Genius 10 that I do not use often. I find their operating manual to be somewhat confusing regarding what the LED light status is trying to tell you.

I had to dig this out of the support section on the NOCO website to get a better understanding:

Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review Charging Lights


I have never seen the Genius 10 "Complete" a charge, although I have seen the "maintenance" mode. I have to assume that the Genius 10 completed the charge and immediately switched into maintenance mode.

From your analysis, it appears that the Genius 10 does not output 10 amps during charging. I would hope that the charger would output a higher amperage should the battery state of charge be low enough to call for it.

Now I feel a little slimy after my Genius 10 purchase!
 
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Flanders

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From your analysis, it appears that the Genius 10 does not output 10 amps during charging. I would hope that the charger would output a higher amperage should the battery state of charge be low enough to call for it.
It can and does supply close to its rated current, when the battery will accept it. This specimen supplied a steady 9.7A for a couple of hours at 13.5-14.6V while charging a LiFePO4 battery.

A lightly discharged lead acid battery just won't accept that kind of charge current after sitting a few days. If my Jeep sits for a week, it will take about 2Ah in the first two hours of charging at 14.4V. A 1-amp charger could do that.
 

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Have you tested any of the Yuasa brand chargers?
 

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I got a Genius 10 when I bought a NOCO Lithium NLP30 battery for a different car. Both have worked flawlessly. Additionally, the NLP30 was a huge weight savings… great in a sports car.

My old charger wouldn’t charge my Odyssey PC680 battery properly, but the genius 10 fixed it right up. I’m a fan.
 

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According to their book, how one of my chargers works, and it's the sort of pattern the battery makers seem to like.
I've not dug into the CTEK pattern, but I believe it's similar to this Carlyle charger -

Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review 1765647789064-1u


I found this about the CTEK charger I have -

Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review 1765647934480-ci



Step Three - Bulk

Charging starts! Using the maximum current available, the battery will be charged as safely and efficiently as possible. The charger will continue on step three until the battery’s capacity reaches 80%.

Step Four - Absorption
Charging continues however the current will start to decline. By decreasing the current it will protect the battery’s capacity, increasing its lifespan.

Step Five - Analysing
Once the charging stage has completed, the charger will then test the battery to see if it can hold the charge that it has received. If the battery cannot hold the charge it will need to be replaced.

Step Six - RECOND Mode
RECOND mode is CTEK’s specially designed function for reconditioning deeply discharged batteries. If your battery does not need reconditioning, this optional step can be skipped.

Step Seven - Float Mode
Once the battery has been fully charged the charger will maintain the battery voltage to keep the battery fully charged. It will give the battery a fixed low level of current for 10 days, before moving on to step eight.

Step Eight - Pulse Mode
If long term maintenance is required, and to avoid overcharging and damaging the battery, the charger will go into Pulse mode. This mode will continuously monitor the battery and maintain charge between 95%-100% capacity depending on what the battery requires. This is what allows you to connect the charger long-term and forget about it.


I prefer these approaches, personally and why I chose the chargers I have.
 
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Flanders

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Mods changed the title. I find the new on pretentious.

@ShadowsPapa

That's not at all what Noco does. Noco doesn't do constant voltage absorption or float. It's basically 6 bulk stages, each at lower current and higher ending voltage. Its maintenance mode is either off or supplying 0.32A. Nothing in between.
 

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Mods changed the title. I find the new on pretentious.

@ShadowsPapa

That's not at all what Noco does. Noco doesn't do constant voltage absorption or float. It's basically 6 bulk stages, each at lower current and higher ending voltage. Its maintenance mode is either off or supplying 0.32A. Nothing in between.
I didn't figure the title matched you.............
I was just wondering how things compared. It seems Jeep people say there is no other battery charger, it's NOCO or else and that they can do no wrong.
You are showing they are almost totally different from anything else, and don't at all follow what I've read about charging batteries on the battery sites and forums.
It's a very different approach, so was seeing how it compared to what I have - the Carlyle and the CTEK (different, but sort of similar approaches to each other)
 

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I just bought one of these chargers about 2 months ago. It does what I want it to do. Charge my AGM batteries.
 

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For 2+ years I’ve used a NOCO Genius 10 on both my JT and another on my Harley. So far, no issues, no problems, been working good so I’m a fan.
 

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For me, it's not just "does it charge the battery", it's "will it charge the battery in a way that gives that battery maximum life, or will it maybe warp plates or cause other issues that result in less battery life.
Almost anything will 'charge a battery' - some guys have even turned PC power supplies into battery chargers, and think of the old transformer types.
But will it do it in a way that gives that battery better life, retaining the capacity, or does it just slam it into the 12.8 volt range and we say hey, the battery is charged!
 
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Flanders

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I like Noco's algorithm. Constant-current charging can be gentle on a battery, with only a brief period of high voltage at the end of the cycle. The charger behaves perfectly in that regard.

My main problem is the AGM profile on the NG10. It appears to be set for 14.8V at standard temperature, too high for my 14.4V OEM battery. It charged until my battery went over 15V, at least 30 times in 24 hours.

I know why they've done this, I think: to get the approval of manufacturers of higher spec AGMs that require the higher voltage. The more-money-than-sense market, if I'm being cynical.
 

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I like Noco's algorithm. Constant-current charging can be gentle on a battery, with only a brief period of high voltage at the end of the cycle. The charger behaves perfectly in that regard.
That's the profile my other chargers have - constant current, then a period of slightly higher voltage for absorption at the end where the voltage ramps up a bit.

(max of 14.4)

Jeep Gladiator Charger pr0n: NOCO Genius10 battery - measured data & review 1765733065463-ev
 
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Flanders

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That's the profile my other chargers have - constant current, then a period of slightly higher voltage for absorption at the end where the voltage ramps up a bit.

(max of 14.4)

1765733065463-ev.webp
It's not quite the same, unless the charger is small. A standard bulk-absorption 10A charger will bring a car battery (used normally, not deliberately discharged) up to 14.4V in seconds, ending the bulk stage. Most of the charging will then happen in absorption at 14.4V. A 1A charger might supply 1A (bulk) for awhile before getting the voltage up to 14.4V. The Noco gives you the best of both worlds, in theory.
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