"Tow Mode?" and Static noise while towing

[Panthers65]

Towed my first load yesterday, other than empty trailer and bed of stuff at least. had to pull a tractor about 10 miles to prep the softball field for the season.

1- Does the gladiator have a tow mode or something that is automatically done when you plug a trailer in? I noticed the engine holding gears much longer, even when I wasn't trying to increase speed or really drive aggressively. Also, the engine breaking seemed more aggressive when letting off the gas. As soon as I unhooked the trailer, everything went back to normal.

2- I kept trying to pinpoint it, but I head what I can best describe as a static sound several times when accelerating. Almost like it was coming from my GMRS radio under the steering wheel cover, but it wasn't. It sounded very similar though, any thoughts? I haven't been able to reproduce the sound without a trailer, but for the life of me I can't figure out what would make that sound.

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[Josh00333]

My understanding is yes the truck picks up on load and adjusts, but there is no button for tow haul.

Was your radio on? You may well have been getting interference. I got some until I went direct to the battery.

 

[Labswine]

Never noticed as I only shift mine manually.

Mine's a stock 2020 Overland (built 6/19) with trailer package and automatic.

With my trailer attached, 27' and ~5,100 lbs with all we want or need, when driving I up shift at around 2,500 RPMs. Once I hit 7th, I'm around 2,100 RPMs at just under 65 MPH on the highway. I can hit 7th at 55 MPH on more rural roads but, if I want to accelerate or going up a grade, then I will have to downshift to 6th but am still able to keep it around 2,500 RPMs to maintain around 55 MPH.

Downshifting, either I let it do it by itself as I'm coming to a stop, like traffic light or traffic, or I will downshift when RPMs are around 1,500 and they will jump to between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs. Don't really notice an increase in engine braking that way. I guess I have my brake controller dialed in correctly as I've not had an issue with stopping even when I've had to REALLY stop fairly quickly ?

You know, those times when there's a van, box truck, or similar right in front of you blocking your view ahead, and you are keeping your distance but, they suddenly have to stop and catch you unawares because you can't plan the chess moves from seeing a couple or three cars ahead and properly prepare...I HATE when that happens ???

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Towed my first load yesterday, other than empty trailer and bed of stuff at least. had to pull a tractor about 10 miles to prep the softball field for the season.

1- Does the gladiator have a tow mode or something that is automatically done when you plug a trailer in? I noticed the engine holding gears much longer, even when I wasn't trying to increase speed or really drive aggressively. Also, the engine breaking seemed more aggressive when letting off the gas. As soon as I unhooked the trailer, everything went back to normal.

2- I kept trying to pinpoint it, but I head what I can best describe as a static sound several times when accelerating. Almost like it was coming from my GMRS radio under the steering wheel cover, but it wasn't. It sounded very similar though, any thoughts? I haven't been able to reproduce the sound without a trailer, but for the life of me I can't figure out what would make that sound.

The JT's systems actually know the torque being applied and needed. It senses the weight and that you are towing and adjusts things accordingly.
I have noticed that with mine, it takes about 2,000 pounds to make it really understand it's towing.
It's a wimp with my empty car hauler, but has a very different personality when my trailer has a car on it.
Tow mode/sensing is automatic. No button, nothing to do.

Here's an example in the PCM's determination on whether or not to use ESS - it senses that it's not towing -

ESS Allow Engine OFF status:
Transmission OK: Yes
Tow/Haul OK: Yes
Intelligent Battery Sensor (Q): No
Intelligent Battery Sensor (V): Yes
Intelligent Battery Sensor OK: Yes
Pedal OK: Yes
HVAC OK: Yes
Engine Oil Temperature OK: Yes

and here's from another live log I took of mine showing it sensing the engine torque output-

Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:19:85;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:20:97;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:21:90;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:22:94;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:24:44;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:25:36;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:26:67;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:27:61;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:28:66;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:29:59;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:30:59;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:31:75;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:32:78;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:34:04;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:34:97;18
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:36:00;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:36:99;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:37:96;19
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:38:98;22
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:39:97;23
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:41:23;22
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:42:19;24
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:43:38;30
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:44:27;31
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:45:17;29
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:46:51;15
Actual engine - percent torque;07/18/2022;09:53:47:44;25

 

[Panthers65]

Very interesting, thanks for confirming guys. It caught me off guard. I'd towed with it before, but this was the first time it was a load with any substantial weight, so I guess that was it.

I'll have to try manually shifting. My guess is I was right at the level where it was sensing the load, so a few of the downshifts were pretty abrupt, felt like I was hitting the breaks pretty good but I wasn't.

And I figured out the static noise, my inner fender liner had come loose and was making a "Scratching' sound as the wind moved it around. All good there.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Very interesting, thanks for confirming guys. It caught me off guard. I'd towed with it before, but this was the first time it was a load with any substantial weight, so I guess that was it.

I'll have to try manually shifting. My guess is I was right at the level where it was sensing the load, so a few of the downshifts were pretty abrupt, felt like I was hitting the breaks pretty good but I wasn't.

And I figured out the static noise, my inner fender liner had come loose and was making a "Scratching' sound as the wind moved it around. All good there.

Be aware that manual shifting is generally used to prevent the transmission from constantly hunting while under heavy load - towing, running against the wind, etc. - which makes it run hotter than normal.
Shifting manually should be used to control - stop - the hunting and to keep the transmission in a LOWER gear, not a higher gear.
Too many fear the high RPM and shift manually to strive to keep RPM down. That's bad - for engine and transmission cooling.
I've found that by moving to manual mode and letting it stay in a lower gear, I could watch the transmission temperature drop.
Even the manual says that if manual shifting use it to stay in a lower gear to keep the transmission cooler - trying to run a higher gear will unnecessarily load the engine, even to the point of lugging (and yes, you can lug an engine in the 2,000 -2500 RPM range)
If you shift manually and try to keep the RPM too low by forcing it to stay in a higher gear, it will drop to a lower gear, over-riding your choice, to prevent loading up or lugging the engine.
These need RPM to make power. They are running in low-power, economy mode under 3,000 rpm so don't be afraid to let it run in RPM of 2500-3,000 or so. I let mine wind up and avoid high gears when towing.
I generally let mine work in automatic mode - I rarely need manual mode. I only use manual mode if it's hunting in hilly areas like we have here - up and down, up and down, up and down. The constant shifting causes the transmission temp to climb. So I force it to stay in the lower gear, keeping the RPM at least 2500 or MORE.
Basically, the book says keep RPM up, avoid lower RPM -

Don't be one of those afraid of RPM or who uses manual mode to force it into a higher gear. Let it wind up.
Even the Chevy experts here will tell you that. I asked about my Silverado years ago when I noticed my Chevy truck was hitting some pretty high RPM - they said LET IT, don't be afraid of it, don't try to force lower RPM - bad for engine.

These have best HP and towing ability if you stay out of the higher gears and keep the RPM up a bit.

 

[Labswine]

I watch my temperatures using the 'Offroad Page' feature.

With my shifting pattern, engine hovers around 205-210 (will drop to around 200 when moving along and these temps were observed when it was in the low to mid 90s outside), oil about the same, and the transmission around 215-220 tops. Not too much higher for oil or transmission than when running free where they both run around 200-205. The engine usually runs at 195 when not towing.

 

[rharr]

Like Shawdowpapa said, let that motor spin. These modern small displacement motors are designed to run high rpms to make power. They are nothing like the motors of the 60's and 70's.

Heck even my buddies 2005 suburban with a LT 5.3 will spin happily at 4500 rpms climbing hills.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Under any normal driving, my engine temps run 195-211. Doesn't matter if I am towing or not towing, shifting manually or letting it shift. Those are my engine temps.

My transmission doesn't normally go over ordinary driving temperatures even when I am towing and letting it shift automatically, but there have been times with the up/down/up/down hills here I've watched it go up slightly and experimented by manual shifting and found the book to be correct - lock it in the lower gear and temps dropped to normal.

I've towed with two of these JTs now, and you need to let them work up some RPM. (trailer with car on it - 5,000 pounds. )

These things know what they are doing - don't try to out-think the programming. It knows more about these engines and transmissions than any driver.
The only thing is like the book says - if it hunts, if there is a lot of shifting, take over and keep it in a LOWER (not higher!) gear, let it wind up a bit, and the transmission will be fine. The constant up and down is where heat comes from. Running higher RPM means less pressure or force on the gears generating heat, and less heat-making friction from the clutches constantly engaging and disengaging.

 

[Rusty PW]

My Power Wagon with the 5.7 Hemi towing my 10,000 lb camper was happy above 4,000 rpms. It didn't like lugging.

 

[Labswine]

To date, shifting it my way, the only time I noticed it lugging was the random times I tried 8th on a level or slight downgrade and the RPMs were around 1,500-1,600. Ergo, I just don't use 8th at all.

Mine just purrs along with the way I'm doing it. Yes, I will downshift from 7th to 6th as needed (rarely 5th) and keep it in the 2,100-2,600 RPM range and really do not notice any issues...either with the temperatures or with any lugging.

I have yet to see the need to wind her out to 3,500 or 4,000 RPMs. Just haven't, and haven't needed to, to get my rig moving along with traffic.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

To date, shifting it my way, the only time I noticed it lugging was the random times I tried 8th on a level or slight downgrade and the RPMs were around 1,500-1,600. Ergo, I just don't use 8th at all.

Mine just purrs along with the way I'm doing it. Yes, I will downshift from 7th to 6th as needed (rarely 5th) and keep it in the 2,100-2,600 RPM range and really do not notice any issues...either with the temperatures or with any lugging.

I have yet to see the need to wind her out to 3,500 or 4,000 RPMs. Just haven't, and haven't needed to, to get my rig moving along with traffic.

There's no "one works for all" here - it totally depends on where you live and drive.

You'll never keep up highway speeds here unless you get out of the 2,000 RPM range.
It just won't happen. Even without a trailer, I find the need to let 'er downshift to make the next hill. 5th is needed on a windy day on the roads right around us - no trailer.
It really depends on the terrain around where you are driving.
I see mine needing to shift down to 6th to keep up 65 mph and make the grade with no trailer on my way to Des Moines from here. With trailer - it would need 5th gear to get there and then it would be 65 or less mph.
People come to this part of the state to get in shape for RAGBRAI each year. It's a training ground for athletes.
Even my V8 LS equipped Chevy had to drop gears and wind up to make the grade. And it had more torque and HP than this 3.6
What I've found as another comparison on roads, grades, etc. is that my mpg - with OR without trailer, always goes up once I leave Iowa and hit other states. I got a lot better mpg in MO, FL, even KY. We were doing well for mpg coming back from Florida until we hit our own landscape and then I could watch the numbers slowly drop.
That tells you something about how hard the engine is working.
Best mpg was FL - least shifting was FL.

 

[Advntrbound]

I've been trying to get mine to shift automatically but I can't find the right button...???

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've been trying to get mine to shift automatically but I can't find the right button...???

Hell, I shift the T5 in my SX4 so automatically I don't even remember doing it. I come to a point where something wakes part of me and says time to shift - and I've already done it.
It's such a breeze, and the car is so much like a part of me, it's gotta be muscle memory. I don't look for anything in that car, I just know where things are.

But that's a problem in my JT at times as I mash the dead pedal - no response.......oh, yeah.

 

[Panthers65]

Appreciate the recommendations all, I had no issues letting the motor spin up, I understand it's a modern 6 cylinder and not a classic V8. The biggest issue I had was the immediate downshifting, especially at lower speeds. I pulled into the church parking lot and it literally felt like I slammed on the breaks. My wife looked at me like I was about to hit something but I wasn't touching either pedal, it just downshifted that hard. Running 35's with the factory 4.10s so I'm sure that had something to do with it, but we were talking a pretty small tractor and a light-weight 4x8 trailer, so it was way more aggressive than it needed to be.

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