Easy routing of wires through passenger side pillar

[FKN Slayer]

Anyone have a tip or trick to running wires from the freedom panels, down through the passenger side pillar? I need the wire to end up in the passenger side kick panel.

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[Alans17]

What’s the end goal, here? Are you putting something on the roof?

 

[FKN Slayer]

What’s the end goal, here? Are you putting something on the roof?

No, I have a GMRS radio mounted below the freedom panels. I need to snake wiring to the aux switch wires under the glove compartment.

 

[Blade1668]

I pulled freedom panels then folded windshield down to fish wires to the area then under the plastic trim panels for dash camera.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I pulled freedom panels then folded windshield down to fish wires to the area then under the plastic trim panels for dash camera.

This, or come through the firewall plug in the floorboard and fish it up. I fished my hood mount light wires through the firewall.

 

[pm4045]

pull the A pillar grab handle two 10mm bolts and the tweeter speaker coverand you should be good to go

 

[Blade1668]

This, or come through the firewall plug in the floorboard and fish it up. I fished my hood mount light wires through the firewall.

I ran aux lights from under hood wiring. no fishing wires. But running 12v power for dash cam from tapped into lighter socket. I should have just tied into the 12v power from aux power lead. But I ordered it for my LJ and had not installed it yet so it got relocated to JT.
***A note that many 12v outlets are not necessary rated for very high amp draw. I fried one in my LJ and replaced it, I had a 12v fan defroster plugged into it when it burned out. 10 amps are pushing them hard.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I ran aux lights from under hood wiring. no fishing wires. But running 12v power for dash cam from tapped into lighter socket. I should have just tied into the 12v power from aux power lead. But I ordered it for my LJ and had not installed it yet so it got relocated to JT.
***A note that many 12v outlets are not necessary rated for very high amp draw. I fried one in my LJ and replaced it, I had a 12v fan defroster plugged into it when it burned out. 10 amps are pushing them hard.

Ford people say 20 amps. I was looking to see what I might need to power the 12v outlet I put in the bed and almost every Ford person said 20.

The problem I've seen with these outlets, and even more with the stuff plugged into them, is corrosion and poor connections. Let it get even a little corroded and you have resistance and how do heaters work? Pushing power through a resistance.
That's what has fried every 12v outlet - used to be cigarette lighter, I've had opportunity to work on and fix/replace. Corrosion. Or the item isn't firm-fitting, or loose, or put pushed in with some force, etc.
High draw items are going to be big trouble if you have any oxidation on the contacts of the outlet or the plug.

 

[Blade1668]

Ford people say 20 amps. I was looking to see what I might need to power the 12v outlet I put in the bed and almost every Ford person said 20.

The problem I've seen with these outlets, and even more with the stuff plugged into them, is corrosion and poor connections. Let it get even a little corroded and you have resistance and how do heaters work? Pushing power through a resistance.
That's what has fried every 12v outlet - used to be cigarette lighter, I've had opportunity to work on and fix/replace. Corrosion. Or the item isn't firm-fitting, or loose, or put pushed in with some force, etc.
High draw items are going to be big trouble if you have any oxidation on the contacts of the outlet or the plug.

It had what looked like a 5 amp fuse built on bottom, that was in my 05 LJ. (Note the power outlets wasn't made as cigar lighter outlets, no lighter or ashtray in vehicle

) The bottom had burned and melted, at the time it wasn't corroded or anything. I wasn't using the heater part just the fan. If I remember correctly not like I used the heat much there S.E. GA and Florida. I started to replace with factory one but was advised (Jeep parts dept) that it was mainly for charging cell phone or radar detector. I didn't like the price for it either so a auto parts store one went in no looking back. That was over 10 years ago, still working great and not limited as much now. Funny to think of the power outlets I've moved on to from that. SAE and Anderson's I did add 2 cigar lighter outlets in my JT though. ? bed and back of console besides 2 that run off house battery. I need to be able to charge a flashlight that uses that still.
I do notice that most are crappy quality or built other than fridge / freezer plugs.

 

[Beemer533]

pull the A pillar grab handle two 10mm bolts and the tweeter speaker coverand you should be good to go

This is definitely the easiest way to get down to the kick panel. The grab handle only takes a minute to pull.

I mounted my spod above the mirror and I just snaked the cat5e through the overhead trim above the visors with a tig wire and down behind the the grab handle. Really easy...

Not a great shot, but it's the only one I have with the grab handle pulled.

 

[Beemer533]

Ford people say 20 amps. I was looking to see what I might need to power the 12v outlet I put in the bed and almost every Ford person said 20.

The problem I've seen with these outlets, and even more with the stuff plugged into them, is corrosion and poor connections. Let it get even a little corroded and you have resistance and how do heaters work? Pushing power through a resistance.
That's what has fried every 12v outlet - used to be cigarette lighter, I've had opportunity to work on and fix/replace. Corrosion. Or the item isn't firm-fitting, or loose, or put pushed in with some force, etc.
High draw items are going to be big trouble if you have any oxidation on the contacts of the outlet or the plug.

20a seems high to me as well. I usually see the same issues with those sockets, the cheap spring contacts in the plugs also tend to weaken over time, exacerbating the issue.

For what it's worth, the adapters that allow you to splice power from the 12v socket, at least for the jeep come with 10a fuses.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/12-volt-power-adapter-jeep-wrangler-tj-jk-jl-jt

I put this socket in my bed for my fridge and it also came with a 10a fuse.

https://a.co/d/hFCCEaU

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I started to replace with factory one but was advised (Jeep parts dept) that it was mainly for charging cell phone or radar detector.

Modern vehicles, they likely aren't far off! I noticed the ones I have on hand for my classic cars (yeah,, hoard spare parts) are made twice as heavy and well as the one in my JT. The JT one is some of the lightest materials I've ever seen in one - the walls dent and deform easily. Can't do that to the 1970s or 80s ones.

For what it's worth, the adapters that allow you to splice power from the 12v socket, at least for the jeep come with 10a fuses.

Yeah, I have one............ but then that is to protect the wiring and that almost have to put a lower fuse in there since they are tapping into the 12v outlet source. They have to restrict the "tap's" power to lower than the 12v outlet's power capabilities.

You can almost see the terminal block on mine - it's what I connected my snow plow's ACC trigger to -

 

[kd1yt]

re- running wire through/ after removing the grab handle -

can anyone (who has had it off and run wire there) please give me any approximate sense of how much space there is for wires underneath the cover?

I plan to put two amateur radio (ham) mobile transceivers in, on an overhead MOLLE panel, and will need to pull some fairly stout DC cabling (8 or 10 gauge) up from the battery side pillar and some control/ coaxial cables down the driver's side pillar.

It'd be great to know before I start pulling things apart how much working space I have available to work with

Thanks!

 

[XraytecH]

 

[kd1yt]

Thanks XRayTech - I may want to run it closer in through the grab bar area if there's space, rather than out by the windshield frame in the way that this guy shows.

I actually have "that" CB bar shown in the video that I may use to mount the transceiver control heads up near the visor. Main transceiver bodies may go on center MOLLE panel

Thanks

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