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Went for 3.5" lift, ended up at 6". Drive shaft?

Jeeperjamie

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don't these lift kits generally quote lift based on Rubicon heights? (+1" over all other models) so if it's 3.5" of lift for a ruby then it's 4.5" for a OL.
They normally give you a little bit because of settling and weight added and that's normally between 3/4 and 1.5 inches. I don't think they base it off Rubicon height, Rubicon sits higher because of the springs they have nothing else. That's ground to bottom truck clearance, the highline fenders would give you more clearance for the tires but the ground clearance would be the same once the springs are removed for all models.
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rharr

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They normally give you a little bit because of settling and weight added and that's normally between 3/4 and 1.5 inches. I don't think they base it off Rubicon height, Rubicon sits higher because of the springs they have nothing else. That's ground to bottom truck clearance, the highline fenders would give you more clearance for the tires but the ground clearance would be the same once the springs are removed for all models.
I am going off my experience with Rockkrawler.

Jeep Gladiator Went for 3.5" lift, ended up at 6". Drive shaft? 1655147901846


Yes ruby's site higher because their spring length or rate is such that it raises the frame 1" taller above the axles then other models.

The only clearance I am talking is how much a suspension raises the frame of the vehicle off the axles. When they quote lift kits they are referencing the increased space between the axles and the frame of the vehicle. SO a 3" lift raises the frame 3 inches more above the axles then what was stock.

If a ol jeep has say 8 inches of space between axle and frame and a ruby has 9" of space in stock form and a 3" lift based on a ruby was used, it would raise the OL 4" inches because you have to account for the extra 1" of the ruby which the kit was sized from.

Needless to say, gaining an extra 3" in addition to the 3" from the kit like the op says seems odd and i want to see how compressed the shock is at rest. If the shock body is to long, the shock could be fully compress and bearing the weight instead of the springs and hold the jeep up the extra 3".
 

bleda2002

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I am going off my experience with Rockkrawler.

1655147901846.webp


Yes ruby's site higher because their spring length or rate is such that it raises the frame 1" taller above the axles then other models.

The only clearance I am talking is how much a suspension raises the frame of the vehicle off the axles. When they quote lift kits they are referencing the increased space between the axles and the frame of the vehicle. SO a 3" lift raises the frame 3 inches more above the axles then what was stock.

If a ol jeep has say 8 inches of space between axle and frame and a ruby has 9" of space in stock form and a 3" lift based on a ruby was used, it would raise the OL 4" inches because you have to account for the extra 1" of the ruby which the kit was sized from.

Needless to say, gaining an extra 3" in addition to the 3" from the kit like the op says seems odd and i want to see how compressed the shock is at rest. If the shock body is to long, the shock could be fully compress and bearing the weight instead of the springs and hold the jeep up the extra 3".
It depends on where the lift is measured and how much rake though. As i mentioned clayton always under-advertises their lift because its heavy duty so a 3.5 is actually 4" on a rubi more or less. They are also heavy duty and measured off a rubi so 4" on a sport is 5, and then a light sport these heavy duty springs probably are 6" worth of lift.
 

Clayton Off Road

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Wanted to check in here! While our lifts do provide slightly more lift than advertised, you definitely shouldn't be sitting around 6" of lift after install!

To clarify how we measure our lift heights, the advertised height is actually when measuring from the rear, and on a Rubicon model with the steel bumper package. The reason we measure from the rear is that we always provide a little bit more lift up front in order to remove some of the factory rake. A 3.5" kit should really measure about 4" in the rear after install on a Rubicon model, which will settle some but this is mostly in order to compensate for any accessories, and so that you're never left with less lift than advertised and are stuck with tires that are rubbing. 3.5" coils will also measure slightly more than that 4" in the front, actually closer to 5", because that is where we are removing that inch of rake. From the factory, the Gladiator has about 2" of rake total, and we aim to remove about half of that for an overall better looking stance.

Hope this helps to clarify things! Please feel free to shoot us a PM or email us some photos and information so we can make sure you have all of the right part numbers, and we can work with you to solve any issues you're experiencing!

Also, no need to worry about the front driveshaft daily driving, that front driveshaft is never getting any use unless you're in 4wd, and mainly starts to wear down when being flexed out off road!
 

Clayton Off Road

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You made a good decision. Going with Clayton, you will never say -- where is my 3.5 inches ? I have the Clayton 3.5" overland plus lift also. After 1.5 years with a winch, winch bumper, engine skids, and lots of trails, I still have my lift. My buddies with different lifts and some weight are starting to add pucks....

Note: I did change my front drive shaft to Adams, and I put a rockjock carrier bearing spacer in the back for the rear driveshaft.

Get that gladiator on some trails and articulate the suspension some, that will help the springs settle. Clayton has great springs and control arms.
This is a great real world example of why we do what we do, our goal is to develop suspension systems that last the lifetime of the vehicle, not just a few years or less!
 

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HenrytheDestroyer

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Wanted to check in here! While our lifts do provide slightly more lift than advertised, you definitely shouldn't be sitting around 6" of lift after install!

To clarify how we measure our lift heights, the advertised height is actually when measuring from the rear, and on a Rubicon model with the steel bumper package. The reason we measure from the rear is that we always provide a little bit more lift up front in order to remove some of the factory rake. A 3.5" kit should really measure about 4" in the rear after install on a Rubicon model, which will settle some but this is mostly in order to compensate for any accessories, and so that you're never left with less lift than advertised and are stuck with tires that are rubbing. 3.5" coils will also measure slightly more than that 4" in the front, actually closer to 5", because that is where we are removing that inch of rake. From the factory, the Gladiator has about 2" of rake total, and we aim to remove about half of that for an overall better looking stance.

Hope this helps to clarify things! Please feel free to shoot us a PM or email us some photos and information so we can make sure you have all of the right part numbers, and we can work with you to solve any issues you're experiencing!

Also, no need to worry about the front driveshaft daily driving, that front driveshaft is never getting any use unless you're in 4wd, and mainly starts to wear down when being flexed out off road!
Are there any recommendations to keep the factory rake ?
 

Clayton Off Road

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Are there any recommendations to keep the factory rake ?
Diesel Jeeps have the option of using the non-diesel kit so the springs in the front don't provide as much lift, non-diesels would have to use a 1-inch spacer in the rear. The nice thing about having a fully adjustable lift is that all of the control arms/track bars can easily be adjusted if adding a spacer!
 

HenrytheDestroyer

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Diesel Jeeps have the option of using the non-diesel kit so the springs in the front don't provide as much lift, non-diesels would have to use a 1-inch spacer in the rear. The nice thing about having a fully adjustable lift is that all of the control arms/track bars can easily be adjusted if adding a spacer!
What is the possibility of using 2.5 in the front and 3.5 in the rear, but the same ride right components otherwise ? That should keep the rake?
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