Is it possible to swap out a regular 4 wheel drive transition case to a Selec-Trac 4X4?

[DAVECS1]

Not to start an argument but I've used my truck in many different kinds of snow/slush/frosty pavement/wet snow/compacted ice-like snow and I will say with 100% certainty that AWD is a MASSIVE improvement over 2H in the gladiator especially if any elevation change is involved. Even small amounts of snow on pavement and any elevation means slipping and sliding of that rear end. AWD, no slipping and cruise right up our steep driveway and up our mountain. That's with both 3-peak rated AT3Ws and nokian winter truck tires. The very fact that AWD makes such a difference on wet pavement and in the rain tells you it will make a major difference in slick snow/slush. Ice or black ice, yes, that's a whole other world where you essentially have zero traction without the softest winter tires on or maybe studs to help. Having said that, coming out of or trying to control coming out of a slick spot is going to be helped with AWD, recovery is going to be very different in 2H. It's not feet of snow that the handling weaknesses show in 2H, it's slush or an inch or two of compacted snow which is effectively a little stickier than ice and any elevation change at all (especially on pavement) which shifts the center of gravity towards the rear.

Again, I agree, black ice or solid ice on a lake, nothing is going to help except in controlling how you come out of that. Snow, slush, rain, rain/snow, compacted snow, etc. AWD in the truck is a godsend.--It's a major difference and I don't think it should be under-sold. Admittedly I've never been on a road that was black ice for a mile or even more than a few hundred feet but coming out of that and re-gaining traction won't be the same in 2H.

I am not disagreeing at all. My wife has this on her 4xe, and it way more confidence inspiring in inclement weather, and way easier to drive. I think it is a worthy upgrade.

I have found that the electronic nanies do a decent job of keepi g things in check and allowing the conventional transfer case to move forward in the direction you intend, bit it is way more scary to trust it after things start sliding and definitely not as pretty, but I got lazy and have excepted it, I am impressed at how well it works.

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[brianinca]

I've driven AWD's for 25 years, I am in favor of them. Since ICE is what the OP specifically referenced, I assert that AWD is no less fucked on black ice than any other system.

Equally, the dealer is trying to screw him over saying a conversion is practical/possible, and OP should pass on that nonsense.

Not to start an argument but I've used my truck in many different kinds of snow/slush/frosty pavement/wet snow/compacted ice-like snow and I will say with 100% certainty that AWD is a MASSIVE improvement over 2H in the gladiator especially if any elevation change is involved. Even small amounts of snow on pavement and any elevation means slipping and sliding of that rear end. AWD, no slipping and cruise right up our steep driveway and up our mountain. That's with both 3-peak rated AT3Ws and nokian winter truck tires. The very fact that AWD makes such a difference on wet pavement and in the rain tells you it will make a major difference in slick snow/slush. Ice or black ice, yes, that's a whole other world where you essentially have zero traction without the softest winter tires on or maybe studs to help. Having said that, coming out of or trying to control coming out of a slick spot is going to be helped with AWD, recovery is going to be very different in 2H. It's not feet of snow that the handling weaknesses show in 2H, it's slush or an inch or two of compacted snow which is effectively a little stickier than ice and any elevation change at all (especially on pavement) which shifts the center of gravity towards the rear.

Again, I agree, black ice or solid ice on a lake, nothing is going to help except in controlling how you come out of that. Snow, slush, rain, rain/snow, compacted snow, etc. AWD in the truck is a godsend.--It's a major difference and I don't think it should be under-sold. Admittedly I've never been on a road that was black ice for a mile or even more than a few hundred feet but coming out of that and re-gaining traction won't be the same in 2H.

 

[jsalbre]

Resurrection..... I have been following these Selec-Trac posts ever since Jeep announced the addition of the system for 2021 Gladiators. I have been itching for someone to take the plunge to retrofit but all of the posts lead to the same thing, a dead end. I finally decided to pull the trigger and ordered the axle shafts, transfer case, and shifter components. The Mopar parts system is very murky when it comes to retrofitting so I am definitely going off the reservation.

The transfer case arrives tomorrow and the rest of the parts over the next week or two. I'll start assessing the retrofit this week and may install the transfer case before the axle shafts if I have the parts. This is uncharted territory and I will keep track of my findings for others.

I realize everyone knows this, but parts are hard to come by!

Awesome! Good luck!

 

[jsalbre]

This would be super informative for people that don't want CVs.

Using 4 Auto on anything but loose surfaces with u-joint axles is going to be unpleasant, unless you don't plan to turn.

CV joints are much stronger than u-joints. Their biggest weak point is if the boot is damaged and you don't fix it. Carry a spare split cv boot for emergencies and you're good to go.

 

[tommyp]

Resurrection..... I have been following these Selec-Trac posts ever since Jeep announced the addition of the system for 2021 Gladiators. I have been itching for someone to take the plunge to retrofit but all of the posts lead to the same thing, a dead end. I finally decided to pull the trigger and ordered the axle shafts, transfer case, and shifter components. The Mopar parts system is very murky when it comes to retrofitting so I am definitely going off the reservation.

The transfer case arrives tomorrow and the rest of the parts over the next week or two. I'll start assessing the retrofit this week and may install the transfer case before the axle shafts if I have the parts. This is uncharted territory and I will keep track of my findings for others.

I realize everyone knows this, but parts are hard to come by!

@DC3 I think you are going to find there also is a computer you need behind the rear seat. I was looking at this to eventually go the other way if the select trac didn't hold up. I could be wrong but I am pretty sure there is a controller that is specific to the AWD.


As for everyone saying that awd won't help on black ice. You maybe screwed sometimes but in a lot of situations it can. I had a ranger that I had in 2wd and ended up rolling because I lost the rear end on black ice. It would bind in 4x4 in mixed situations so I kept it in 2wd when I should have been in 4wd and it bit me hard. My chevys never bound up that much so I would run them in 4wd when it was mixed.

The Glad in AWD is perfect. Its not my old A4 quattro by any means but it is great for the situations you find yourself in during the winter. If the roads are really bad then it goes in 4hi but driving around in mixed conditions which happens alot. 4auto is where its at.

 

[seven30]

If the aftermarket would come up with a mechanical selectrac like the old XJs had I think Id jump on that. No computer or clutches. BTW the XJ has ujoints while WJ has CVs.
I use XJs full time mode frequently on wet streets. Great for taking of from greasy stop lights.

 

[21JPHighAltitude]

I have a question about swapping the front to CV joints. If you just did that, couldn't you leave it in 4H a little more than you normally would and not hurt anything when you turn like when you have the U-joints?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a question about swapping the front to CV joints. If you just did that, couldn't you leave it in 4H a little more than you normally would and not hurt anything when you turn like when you have the U-joints?

No, because the speed difference is still there when turning and even going straight. You can still bind up the drive train.
There are two things at play, not just the front joints.

 

[21JPHighAltitude]

Ahh. Makes sense.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ahh. Makes sense.

I should add a "PS" - the CV joints are pretty strong and if nothing else would make driving in slick, snowy or icy parking lots a lot easier in 4H, even just driving around town where you need to make tighter turns in 4H.

If a person isn't into the really tough off-road stuff and needs every single ounce of strength from the joints, or isn't concerned about eventual boot replacement..........
And actually, the CV joints are just as strong in the end - the issue is maintenance. If that boot gets torn at all, it's time for maintenance. Don't drive with a ripped or town or wore out boot on the joint. Any grit, dirt, whatever, will really mess with 'em (and they can throw the lube all over)
My SX4 had a ripped boot when I got it and there was lube all over the place.
I now keep spare boots for that car.

 

[21JPHighAltitude]

I should add a "PS" - the CV joints are pretty strong and if nothing else would make driving in slick, snowy or icy parking lots a lot easier in 4H, even just driving around town where you need to make tighter turns in 4H.

If a person isn't into the really tough off-road stuff and needs every single ounce of strength from the joints, or isn't concerned about eventual boot replacement..........
And actually, the CV joints are just as strong in the end - the issue is maintenance. If that boot gets torn at all, it's time for maintenance. Don't drive with a ripped or town or wore out boot on the joint. Any grit, dirt, whatever, will really mess with 'em (and they can throw the lube all over)
My SX4 had a ripped boot when I got it and there was lube all over the place.
I now keep spare boots for that car.

More good points. And as a test i went out and locked the work F150 in 4h and you couldnt tell it was in 4wd unless you turned pretty sharp, then you felt it binding a little. Did the same in the F250 with a solid axle and U joints and you start to turn at all you feel it and sharp turns makes it buck and hop.

Reason I ask is, I will probably be swapping the front axles to chromoly like i did the backs. Would have loved to done the selec trac swap, but that seems like a PITA. Was thinking if i swapped in at least the front axles with chromoly and CV that would be a good compromise.

 

[WILDHOBO]

More good points. And as a test i went out and locked the work F150 in 4h and you couldnt tell it was in 4wd unless you turned pretty sharp, then you felt it binding a little. Did the same in the F250 with a solid axle and U joints and you start to turn at all you feel it and sharp turns makes it buck and hop.

Reason I ask is, I will probably be swapping the front axles to chromoly like i did the backs. Would have loved to done the selec trac swap, but that seems like a PITA. Was thinking if i swapped in at least the front axles with chromoly and CV that would be a good compromise.

RCV shafts give you both. I can’t say enough about them. They have direct swaps for the OE shafts and you get everything you’d want in strength and smooth 4wd turning. I’ve never gotten hop a single time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

RCV shafts give you both. I can’t say enough about them. They have direct swaps for the OE shafts and you get everything you’d want in strength and smooth 4wd turning. I’ve never gotten hop a single time.

The only reason I worded my first response was because of the question "leaving it in 4H a bit longer". It's still not good to leave it in 4H on dry pavement even on straight roads. In those cases, it's not the front joints, it's the minor differences in rotation among the 4 wheels, especially the front axles.
But for turning and getting rid of that hob - CV is a clear winner.
And they are strong as heck.
But it'll still wind up a bit on the road - of course DEPENDING on many factors - tires being very equal size, curves in the road and more.
But the binding in town in tighter turns - that's those front joints. CVs won't do that.
My car turns tighter than most other cars, and in fact, tighter than many SUVs, thanks to the wide swing of the front wheels (the front wheel base is wider than the rear and the knuckles swing out on a turn) and thanks to those CV joints taking a crazy angle without complaint.
CVs also don't go through the wild speed changes a conventional u-joint does. The more you turn a u-joint, the more the speed difference becomes between the driving shaft and driven shaft. In the case of a 4x4 with front axle u-joints, the inner axle tries to maintain a steady RPM while the outer end RPM drops and jumps as it turns - hopping.

 

[seven30]

Lets say someone fits the old school mechanical selec-trac to the JT. In 4wd full-time mode would the ECU even know? As it is with part-time it clamps down on a spinning wheel. Seems like might work .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Lets say someone fits the old school mechanical selec-trac to the JT. In 4wd full-time mode would the ECU even know? As it is with part-time it clamps down on a spinning wheel. Seems like might work .

And you are going to remove any and all code that tells the ECU what mode the transfer case is in?
It knows - it even knows the ratio of the low range.
Then there's the fact that a transfer case doesn't "clamp down on a spinning wheel". It only knows drive shaft speed differences. There's more to that old-school system than a transfer case.
The original selec-trac locked the front and rear driveshaft together in 4L and 4L part time modes.
In full time mode, it was a center differential with a 48/52 split between front and read driveshafts.
The switch between 4 and 2 wheel drive modes is vacuum.
Not sure why anyone would want to go to that system other than modern BLD would detect wheel spin and apply braking, otherwise the transfer case does nothing special.
It's an open diff in 4H full time, and locked in 4L and 4H part time. No electronics, no viscous coupling, etc. so it can't tell if there's a spinning wheel and is incapable of anything else.

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