NEW! Elite Series JL Wrangler & JT Gladiator LED Headlights from Diode Dynamics

[rconkin]

Did you see my post #142? I think you can turn them off using Diodes directions. Have you tried this? Also, the red wire with add a fuse does not control the halo function or off road lights. On the blue wire controls the off road lights.

The only part it turns off is the drl bars on the Elite Max and welcome sequence. I didn’t see anything for halos except changing color. Am I missing something?
I thought the red wire is power for off-road and blue is the switch wire.

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[Benbean66]

@Benbean66 I don’t think there is a way to turn halos off unless you turn your DRL’s off altogether using Jscan or Tazer.

So I have a Sport and don't have OEM DRL's. I only have "Off, Marker light, and headlight" position on the headlight knob, but I'll see if I can change anything on JScann.

 

[DireRyder]

Mine came in this week and I’m trying to install today. I’m not seeing a fuse panel on the driver side to remove? I found the harness clipped to the fender, but I’ve never had this much trouble disconnecting a wiring harness before. Anyone else run in to this? 22 sport S, so not sure if the fuse box is trim dependent.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Mine came in this week and I’m trying to install today. I’m not seeing a fuse panel on the driver side to remove? I found the harness clipped to the fender, but I’ve never had this much trouble disconnecting a wiring harness before. Anyone else run in to this? 22 sport S, so not sure if the fuse box is trim dependent.

Fuse panel is on passenger side, at least for gas engine…

 

[Darkamek]

Fuse panel is on the passenger side for diesel as well.
The driver side you just need to unclip the fender light to put the turn signal sires inline with it.

 

[Tedster]

I just finished installing the Elite Max headlights, the Elite fog lights, and the clear side markers from Diode Dynamics. I removed the fender liners to gain access to the connectors that the supplied headlight harness plugs into. Easy with the liners out. The side marker screw and wiring is also easy to get to with the liners out. I also removed the fenders ONLY to install Underground Graphics decals. Fenders don’t need to be removed for the headlight mod - only the liners. I modified the fog light backlight wiring by running the drivers side backlight wire under the bumper cover (bumper cover had to be removed) to join the passenger side backlight wire with a heat shrink buttsplice. The two wires were inserted into one side of the buttsplice and a wire inserted into the other side was routed to one of the Aux switches giving me control of the backlight feature. There is enough wire to accomplish all this as the fog lights come with two sets of wiring harness. You use the set that fits your factory plugs leaving the other set for extra wire.
I wired the offroad headlight feature to another Aux switch.
I haven’t fired up the lights yet to aim the lights. Fogs will be easy. The drivers side headlight adjustment can be done with the fender liner out. The passenger side is another story. Either the airbox will have to be removed or the headlight will have to be removed and reinstalled after adjustment (maybe several times until proper adjustment us achieved).

 

[DireRyder]

Fuse panel is on passenger side, at least for gas engine…

The DD video instructions had a small panel to remove on the driver side also. Either way, in and working. Had to use JScan to set led to keep them from turning off after a few seconds like others have seen also.

 

[darkhorse13]

The only part it turns off is the drl bars on the Elite Max and welcome sequence. I didn’t see anything for halos except changing color. Am I missing something?
I thought the red wire is power for off-road and blue is the switch wire.

No you didn't miss anything... i just tried all sequences and the halos don't turn off. Again, the red wire is not powering the halos because I disconnected mine and they are still on. There might not be a way to turn them off unless you ask Diode.

 

[Darkamek]

When I talked to Diode Dynamics on the phone. The customer service representative said the red wire is a voltage sensing wire for the DRL. Kind of like an amplifier has a wire to know that it needs to turn on.

 

[darkhorse13]

When I talked to Diode Dynamics on the phone. The customer service representative said the red wire is a voltage sensing wire for the DRL. Kind of like an amplifier has a wire to know that it needs to turn on.

Well I can tell you that I do not have that red wire connected at all, my Tazer is set to LED head lights and my blue wire is running to the Switch Pro. In this configuration the halos are still on.

 

[Sav_Gladiator]

I think I will wait until all the issues everyone is having are corrected before I consider buying a set. It seems like these did not go through enough testing, especially for the amount they cost.

 

[Benbean66]

Well I can tell you that I do not have that red wire connected at all, my Tazer is set to LED head lights and my blue wire is running to the Switch Pro. In this configuration the halos are still on.

Thanks for sharing this... Probably gonna call them to see if there's a way to shut the halos/DRL's off for when we're camping, or simply don't want them on.

 

[Darkamek]

Funny I set my Tazer to led headlights before installing these lights. Didn’t know there was going to be an issue but I guess I bypassed that one.

 

[Rahkmalla]

I think I will wait until all the issues everyone is having are corrected before I consider buying a set. It seems like these did not go through enough testing, especially for the amount they cost.

Everything about the launch of this product says they jumped the gun and rushed out whatever they could muster.

First, taking "ship in December" orders at the end very of November and then not shipping until February... how did they not know on Nov 28th that December was no longer possible? I guarantee you there was someone, somewhere in the organization trying to tell people the product wouldn't be ready in the aggressive timelines they'd set out, and that person was probably silenced by management for being "too negative". (pure supposition on my part, but it's a song and dance i've been to before) Diode Dynamics have directly addressed this comment and I feel it's no longer accurate to leave unstriken

Then, shipping a product sold as plug and play on multiple platforms, simply not work for anyone with halogens? From my reading it's not a hit-or-miss scenario. I haven't read a single post by a person with factory halogens and no jscan/tazer that has working headlights right now. There is just no possible way this headlight got tested on a halogen platform. It's not like it's a 15% fail rate. It's 100%

Then with all this knowledge they now have, the website still says this:

Plug-and-Play Installation. These headlights were designed to be a direct replacement for both halogen and LED-equipped Jeeps, in all trim levels. Simply remove your factory headlight assembly and ours will bolt right in its place. A plug-and-play wire harness is included to hook them up to your factory connector, and also add the turn signal connection.

This just feels like a major top-down issue. And as a result my choices are either "spend another $200 to get working headlights, don't drive your truck at night for a while, or undo all the work you just did to putting them in to get them out until we figure out a fix and you can put them back in again"[/quote] Diode Dynamics has address this directly and I feel it's no longer accurate to leave unstriken

 

[JRobes]

I can appreciate that these newer vehicles are harder to design around due to the vehicle monitoring the electrical circuits, but it definitely seems this needed MUCH more thorough testing.

I'm still excited to eventually get a pair once the snags are figured out and fitment is redesigned around the air box, but I learned my lesson with a preorder of some certain flush mount tail lights that came out that I also had a multitude of initial gripes about.

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