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Rubicon in the Sand?

dos0711

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I've driven plenty of Jeeps in the sand and have always put them in 4 Low but the Rubicon 4:1 seems a bit much. So my question is how do you drive your Rubicon in the sand? 4 high or 4 low? 4 low and manual start in 3rd? Looking for insight.
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I've driven plenty of Jeeps in the sand and have always put them in 4 Low but the Rubicon 4:1 seems a bit much. So my question is how do you drive your Rubicon in the sand? 4 high or 4 low? 4 low and manual start in 3rd? Looking for insight.
Always 4hi here in Michigan. Yes, the low range is better for the rocks than sand.
 

bleda2002

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For the Florida sugar sand 4hi, traction control off, off-road+ on. Haven't needed to use 4lo in the sand yet, but if I do it'll still do 25 mph even with the 4:1 will just ring out more gears.
 

HooliganActual

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I've driven plenty of Jeeps in the sand and have always put them in 4 Low but the Rubicon 4:1 seems a bit much. So my question is how do you drive your Rubicon in the sand? 4 high or 4 low? 4 low and manual start in 3rd? Looking for insight.
To the OP's question:
Here in AZ, I typically run my JTR in 4Hi with the Auto Trans in Manual mode and maybe 2nd or 3rd gear. The Rubicon T-case is not a concern, it just means you might be in a higher gear or higher RPM's than a non Rubi T-case. I have the JTR and 2 JKUR's and have never had an issue in the sand with that T-case. Just make sure if you have the Auto Trans, that you switch it to Manual mode and turn off Traction Control.

Now...to other's reading this that may not be terribly familiar with driving in sand:
The key to driving in dry sand is to have a large contact patch and keep your speed up so that you can "float" on top of the sand.

That means let some air out of your tires so that they can spread/bulge for the larger contact patch AND keep that speed up around the 25 mph that has been mentioned already. Anytime I am off pavement, I typically run around 20# and it works well for rocks or sand.

It doesn't really matter whether you are in 4hi or 4lo as long as you maintain that speed to keep you on top of the sand.

Also...avoid making sharp turns if at all possible. Turning the front wheels sharply will allow them to cut down into the sand; so...look ahead, plan your path and make wider sweeping turns.

Turn off the nanny systems like Traction Control as they will actually work against you (being in 4lo automatically turns off a lot of these systems). And although someone recommended it, I would advise against using the Offroad+ function (actually for just about anytime you are offroad) because YOU need to be in control of the vehicle...not the computer.

And as a sidenote: this is the same way to manage the vehicle when driving on dried up lake beds where the "danger" is breaking through the crust down to the underlying water table.
 

bleda2002

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To the OP's question:
Here in AZ, I typically run my JTR in 4Hi with the Auto Trans in Manual mode and maybe 2nd or 3rd gear. The Rubicon T-case is not a concern, it just means you might be in a higher gear or higher RPM's than a non Rubi T-case. I have the JTR and 2 JKUR's and have never had an issue in the sand with that T-case. Just make sure if you have the Auto Trans, that you switch it to Manual mode and turn off Traction Control.

Now...to other's reading this that may not be terribly familiar with driving in sand:
The key to driving in dry sand is to have a large contact patch and keep your speed up so that you can "float" on top of the sand.

That means let some air out of your tires so that they can spread/bulge for the larger contact patch AND keep that speed up around the 25 mph that has been mentioned already. Anytime I am off pavement, I typically run around 20# and it works well for rocks or sand.

It doesn't really matter whether you are in 4hi or 4lo as long as you maintain that speed to keep you on top of the sand.

Also...avoid making sharp turns if at all possible. Turning the front wheels sharply will allow them to cut down into the sand; so...look ahead, plan your path and make wider sweeping turns.

Turn off the nanny systems like Traction Control as they will actually work against you (being in 4lo automatically turns off a lot of these systems). And although someone recommended it, I would advise against using the Offroad+ function (actually for just about anytime you are offroad) because YOU need to be in control of the vehicle...not the computer.

And as a sidenote: this is the same way to manage the vehicle when driving on dried up lake beds where the "danger" is breaking through the crust down to the underlying water table.
Off-road+ is like sport mode. It remaps the tranny to hold gears longer and rev higher. It is not duck mode/off road cruise control.
 

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Off-road+ is like sport mode. It remaps the tranny to hold gears longer and rev higher. It is not duck mode/off road cruise control.
I fully understand what it is BUT as a guy that has been off-roading Jeeps for 40 years, I don’t advocate the use of OffRoad+ or Hill Descent control as you are a under the computer’s “spell” and at its mercy. They don’t run KoH or Baja or any other off-road competition using nanny systems. They are “cute” functions but learning how to actually use your 4WD system will be better in the long run.
Case in point, none of the stuff in my post that you quoted will be told to you when you push the OffRoad+ button… just saying…
 
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bleda2002

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I fully understand what it is BUT as a guy that has been off-roading Jeeps for 40 years, I don’t advocate the use of OffRoad+ or Hill Descent control as you are a under the computer’s “spell” and at its mercy. They don’t run KoH or Baja or any other off-road competition using nanny systems. They are “cute” functions but learning how to actually use your 4WD system will be better in the long run.
Case in point, none of the stuff is n my post that you quoted will be told to you when you push the OfffRoad+ button… just saying…
The whole truck is under the control of the computer all the time. This is all fly by wire for throttle, and the computer is still controlling torque output, revs and modulation. Offroad plus actually loosens up the computers nannies so I highly recommend you give it a try as it puts you in more control with it on, not less. Throttle response is less dampened/delayed, the computer cuts torque/power less aggressively, and it allows for higher revs.
 

HooliganActual

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The whole truck is under the control of the computer all the time.
Well no doubt. You do you Scotty P. I was simply offering advice related to not using ANY nanny systems and actually driving the vehicle by feel and learning how to drive in the conditions.

If you want to use OffRoad+ or if any one wants to use if, then feel free.

BUT nowhere in the original post:
I've driven plenty of Jeeps in the sand and have always put them in 4 Low but the Rubicon 4:1 seems a bit much. So my question is how do you drive your Rubicon in the sand? 4 high or 4 low? 4 low and manual start in 3rd? Looking for insight.
does it say, "Should I use OffRoad+?". It pretty much looks to me like he is asking how to drive it without OffRoad+ but I am an old curmudgeon and I may have misread the subtext.
 

bleda2002

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Well no doubt. You do you Scotty P. I was simply offering advice related to not using ANY nanny systems and actually driving the vehicle by feel and learning how to drive in the conditions.

If you want to use OffRoad+ or if any one wants to use if, then feel free.

BUT nowhere in the original post:

does it say, "Should I use OffRoad+?". It pretty much looks to me like he is asking how to drive it without OffRoad+ but I am an old curmudgeon and I may have misread the subtext.
What im trying to explain is that off-road+ is not a nanny, it's a nanny reducer like holding the traction control button. If you want the most control possible with minimal nannies, hit off-road+ when you turn off tc
 

HooliganActual

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What im trying to explain is that off-road+ is not a nanny, it's a nanny reducer like holding the traction control button. If you want the most control possible with minimal nannies, hit off-road+ when you turn off tc
Explained. Understood (even before you said it). Still not advocating it.
 

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That's why the Mojave is so great! 2.72 transfer case in 4-low allows you to go a good clip faster than the 4:1 ratio in the Rubicon. Excellent if you need the extra grunt of 4-low but want to also have some speed. I don't think 4-high gives you any mechanical multiplication of power like low range does.
 

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Do you also still only drive a carbureted Willy’s Wheeler from WWII?
Lol. But wouldn't that be fun. I'd love to have my old CJ built out with the stuff that is available today though.

Look, my point is just that the point of wheeling is to test yourself against the obstacles, terrain, etc. (IMHO) not to test Jeep's computr control systems. There was a thread on here of the Jeep Engineers testing the latest EV in MOAB and there was one shot where they were standing outside of the Grand Cherokee (I think is what I remember it was) controlling it with an iPad, walking alongside as it drove up an obstacle. Might as well stay home and send my car to Moab and let it drive around by itself. LOL
 

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For the Florida sugar sand 4hi, traction control off, off-road+ on. Haven't needed to use 4lo in the sand yet, but if I do it'll still do 25 mph even with the 4:1 will just ring out more gears.
Don't forget 20psi in tires. Night and Day difference. In fact, the time I pulled out a 4wd Tahoe that was framed out, when I pulled up beside him to see if he needed help I almost got stuck because I got cocky and had aired up about 1/2 mile before exiting Ocala NF. I aired back down it it walked right out. The only time I put it in low is when I'm pulling out full size 2wd Rams and Tahoe's. I lock front and rear in 4low first and it just walks them out. I had to give the 4wd Tahoe a little tug, but was cake after that.
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