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Whizzzzing sound from the front of the motor

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P.Lo

P.Lo

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I thought the part had the 2 year warranty regardless...... only installation isn't covered if you DIY.
Won't cover any labor inclusion, but........

I'd go salvage yard and I'm afraid my experience with alternators and alternator parts "after-market" is not good. I get a lot of stuff sent to me for repair and reman and after-market charging system parts and starter parts are something I won't use personally.
Some may be fine - but it's not been my experience. The bearings are usually very inexpensive imports.

For me - salvage yard or OEM on alternator stuff.

In this case, the piece Hootbro listed appears to be the OEM supplier for the alternator clutch to begin with
Pully is unavailable from every source I could find.......... not sure why. Also, any Alternator from a junked JT you better look at good, cause the location of the alternator makes it an early casualty in a frontend wreck.
That being said, I got a bit of a price break on a new alternator, so that's the route I'm taking. Other than tires, track-bar, and shocks......... it has been a fairly low cost vehicle for 3 1/2 years.
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from a junked JT you better look at good, cause the location of the alternator makes it an early casualty in a frontend wreck.
No more than any other vehicle, really.
Alternator restoration and repair is what I do.
My experience with salvage parts is that you can easily tell if there's physical issues with the alternator. If the case is intact and it spins free, it's not damaged. At least I could tell at a glance.
You could tell by looking at the Jeep if there was going to be damage. It would take a massive hit to get back that far.
Something would have to get over the top of the frame and crush the radiator support to get to the alternator which sits back a ways.

New is always best, but I'd never be afraid of a salvage alternator on this new a vehicle.
You can't tell electrically, but if it's in the salvage yard, it was working before it was wrecked.

These sit way back in the engine bay. Would take a hell of a collision and it would be pretty obvious if there was damage like that.

Jeep Gladiator Whizzzzing sound from the front of the motor 1687921885693
 
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So Update...... didn't want to post every days details..... but WE STILL HAVE THAT DREMEL TOOL Whizzing sound....... it's not the Alternator, not the belt, and not the Tension Pulley........ they are stumped. One guy thinks it's in the left side of motor front, the other thinks it's the rightside! lol
They read all pertinent bulletins and can't find nothing. Everybody hears it, they just can't pinpoint it. I told them to put it back together and let me drive it a few weeks to see if we can't get the problem to be more obvious. Damnest thing.
 

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Can you give us a sound clip or video? Do you have a mechanics stethoscope and locate the noise that way?
I've (CAREFULLY!!!) used a very long screwdriver with a large handle (about 2.5 to 3 feet long screwdriver) with the end of the screwdriver on the part being listened to and the handle to your ear. Not as great as the mechanic's stethoscope, but it does work. I've located ticks that were fuel pumps, or bearing sounds that way. My stethoscope was so old the hose and plastic parts literally rotted in my tool box drawer. Time for a new one, I guess.

The problem is that accessories are no longer mounted on brackets. They are all bolted directly to the engine itself. And then you have the EHPS pump, fan, brake vacuum pump and other stuff sitting in the engine bay making sounds. So it's not always even engine-related any more.
Heck, the oil pump is clear up front and a vane type pump, not sure what sort of sound that could make. Gear type pumps are pretty quiet normally and so far inside the engine you don't hear them (except in older Olds or AMC engines) but these are chain drive up front in the engine right behind the timing cover.
 

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Can you give us a sound clip or video? Do you have a mechanics stethoscope and locate the noise that way?
We did use a stethoscope......but the high pitch sound is transferring all thru the front of the motor.
I have 45 years of mechanic skills, but unfortunately all on race cars. The only thing I can equate the sound to is a power steering pump that has run dry. (Yes, that was the first thing I checked) .......... The noise is in sync with the engine rpm, so everything is pointing to something belt driven. But when we pulled belt and spun different pulleys by hand, nothing is obvious. Gonna drive it another week and see if I can expedite the degradation of whatever is going wrong, at least to the point it becomes obvious.
 

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Status Update: Diagnosed as the Clutch drive on the Alternator. Cannot replace just the clutch pulley, has to get a whole new alternator. Out of warranty...... $700
Well fuck, but at least its an easy DIY fix
 

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We did use a stethoscope......but the high pitch sound is transferring all thru the front of the motor.
I have 45 years of mechanic skills, but unfortunately all on race cars. The only thing I can equate the sound to is a power steering pump that has run dry. (Yes, that was the first thing I checked) .......... The noise is in sync with the engine rpm, so everything is pointing to something belt driven. But when we pulled belt and spun different pulleys by hand, nothing is obvious. Gonna drive it another week and see if I can expedite the degradation of whatever is going wrong, at least to the point it becomes obvious.
Did you try briefly running the motor with the belt off to make sure it is not on the motor side?

Did you disconnect the electric power steering pump motor connectors and check? I know it is can bus control and runs on a demand base.
 
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Did you try briefly running the motor with the belt off to make sure it is not on the motor side?
Not while I was there. Not saying it's not the motor, but it sounds more belt bearing related. Who knows. I'll drive for a week and see if it gets worse or stays status quo
 

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Not while I was there. Not saying it's not the motor, but it sounds more belt bearing related. Who knows. I'll drive for a week and see if it gets worse or stays status quo
Ok, I just know diagnosing sound issues are some of the worst to track down. You think it is coming from one area but it actually sound traveling from a totally different spot you are looking at sometimes.
 

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Ok, I just know diagnosing sound issues are some of the worst to track down. You think it is coming from one area but it actually sound traveling from a totally different spot you are looking at sometimes.
Amen.

Different frequencies travel through different materials in weird ways (well, not weird, if you know the science, and I don't, so it's weird)
 

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Did you just admit something you shouldn’t have?? This image I’ve had of you is shattered!
LOL - I was in car audio contests in the 1980s. I know enough to do decent - never got over 2nd so obviously not enough.
I know high frequencies are directional, can be directed or bounced off things while lows are not.
I understand the relationship between acoustics and engine exhaust pulses for exhaust design.
Sort of........... a little, maybe.

Yeah, I just really totally disillusioned a lot of folks HAHAHA
 
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Update......... LAST Update......... this time, for real!!!!
The culprit ended up being the internal bearing on the waterpump.
So......... after a lot of head scratching, and re-diagnosing the diagnosis......... they finally pinpointed the noise to the waterpump, and after they replaced it, my Dremel Whizzzzzing sound is now totally GONE!
Case closed.
Thank God
 

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Rats. Just when it was getting exciting as a cliff-hanger. Doggonit.
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