Who Installed AC in Their Garage?

[Green_Gladiator]

[/QUOTE]

Off topic ... Where did you get that bug deflector?. I have not seen one on a Mojave yet and really like the look of what you have mounted.

Regarding the A/C have you considered a window unit. Cost affective and will cover 500sq ft from a 12k BTU unit @ 115v.

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[talljeeper]

Here's another reason I went the way I did - shop is powered through the house panel to the subpanel in the shop.
I have a big air compressor, plating equipment and tank heaters, lights, and upstairs a floor full of power tools, some of which have a fair power draw.
I need to avoid a large amperage draw.
100 amp breaker in the house powering the shop's 100 amp panel. Air compressor running, lights on, running lathe, plating power supply, tank heaters and so on - didn't want a regular AC unit kicking in a compressor and spiking the draw.
The minisplit has no spike - the draw is pretty low and constant. You don't have any sudden spikes because it's DC, inverter, and the compressor "ramps up".
AC units I can actually hear when they kick on if you are near the breaker box. I hate that, so none of that for us. I'll never have another standard AC powered "either on or off" compressor in an AC or HVAC unit.
I even went inverter with the home system.
Anyway, back on the shop - I've never kicked a breaker even with everything running that I need running at one time - and having the air compressor kicking on in all of that.
Love the fact it's extremely low power use.
And in a large area being up high, yo don't freeze one corner while the other corner is hot.

BUT- it's an initial investment. You save or gain much back over time, but it hurts at first.
It's not portable, it's installed and that's that.
It's not for everyone.

You and I have look like we have the same type of setup. Get this, I also use Ethernet over Power on the shop circuit and pull great I/O for my internet connection. No burps or hiccups when the unit fires up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You and I have look like we have the same type of setup. Get this, I also use Ethernet over Power on the shop circuit and pull great I/O for my internet connection. No burps or hiccups when the unit fires up.

When the building was put up I wasn't sure how or what as far as heating, cooling, phones, internet and so on so the electrician buried phone cable, ethernet and power between house and building.
I wish I had done things a bit differently, but it's nice having connection to the mini split via an app, and in the future I'll have control over the lights and if I put in door openers (them 12x12 doors aren't easy as I get older) -
Yeah, your situation should work fine - there's no big draw like a standard AC compressor kicking in with a starting capacitor, no big surge of power. It's a lot cleaner and easier on things.
I need to rig a way for my cell phone to work out there, though. We're in a valley, surrounded by trees, and that double-steel building - no chance of any reception unless you prop the phone in a window and then it's iffy.
I put an Echo out there so my wife could contact me if needed and plan on taking that farther in the future.

 

[Mr._Bill]

When the building was put up I wasn't sure how or what as far as heating, cooling, phones, internet and so on so the electrician buried phone cable, ethernet and power between house and building.
I wish I had done things a bit differently, but it's nice having connection to the mini split via an app, and in the future I'll have control over the lights and if I put in door openers (them 12x12 doors aren't easy as I get older) -
Yeah, your situation should work fine - there's no big draw like a standard AC compressor kicking in with a starting capacitor, no big surge of power. It's a lot cleaner and easier on things.
I need to rig a way for my cell phone to work out there, though. We're in a valley, surrounded by trees, and that double-steel building - no chance of any reception unless you prop the phone in a window and then it's iffy.
I put an Echo out there so my wife could contact me if needed and plan on taking that farther in the future.

There is a variety of cellular extenders available. An antenna on the roof and a repeater and antenna inside. I got one from Amazon for about $150 to improve the signal in the kitchen.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There is a variety of cellular extenders available. An antenna on the roof and a repeater and antenna inside. I got one from Amazon for about $150 to improve the signal in the kitchen.

I've looked around and all I can find are hundreds - meaning like 350 or more. Not worth THAT much to me.
But for under 200, I might bite if it works. Problem is - no way anyone can get to my roof. It's steel, STEEP, and very tall.
It would take quite a bucket rig to get there.

I put one in our house, and antenna on the roof, years ago when 3G was the thing - meh, can't say it did a lot of good. Problem is the antennas are all very directional and where we get reception changes constantly with the weather and seasons so I was forever trying to re-aim the thing.

 

[Iowafarm]

Have a 60 by 120 foot shop that we installed an air conditioner in. Works pretty good.

 

[Lunentucker]

Off topic ... Where did you get that bug deflector?. I have not seen one on a Mojave yet and really like the look of what you have mounted.

Regarding the A/C have you considered a window unit. Cost affective and will cover 500sq ft from a 12k BTU unit @ 115v.
[/QUOTE]

It's the Bushwacker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QC8HXMJ

Yes, on the window unit, but I would have to cut a hole in the wall somewhere for it.

I think I'm going to ride out there rest of this summer and then install a inverter mini split heat pump unit this Fall.

 

[Lunentucker]

I have decided to defer the project until Fall and do the inverter mini split heat pump.
I pulled the cover off the electrical panel yesterday and the feed from the main box in the house appears to be plenty heavy to handle the load.
I'll run cable from the top of the box to the ceiling and then follow one on the I-beams across to the opposite wall, then down between the studs and out to a proper disconnect for the mini.

In the long run this should be the most efficient and less intrusive than portable or through the wall.

Thanks to all who contributed. Great information!

 

[legacy_etu]

snip

Side note: that’s a garage??!! Way too clean my man. Can’t be……..

 

[Lunentucker]

Side note: that’s a garage??!! Way too clean my man. Can’t be……..

That was one of my first post-retirement projects. It's staying that way now!

 

[Green_Gladiator]

Off topic ... Where did you get that bug deflector?. I have not seen one on a Mojave yet and really like the look of what you have mounted.

Regarding the A/C have you considered a window unit. Cost affective and will cover 500sq ft from a 12k BTU unit @ 115v.

It's the Bushwacker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QC8HXMJ

Yes, on the window unit, but I would have to cut a hole in the wall somewhere for it.

I think I'm going to ride out there rest of this summer and then install a inverter mini split heat pump unit this Fall.
[/QUOTE]

Thank you very much! Regarding the A/C .. Yes the inverter H/P mini split is the best option. We use them frequently for I.T. rooms and supplemental cooling when required in commercial applications. Should only require at max 1-30 amp breaker. Also if you can get the water outside without needing a condensate pump I highly recommend doing so. The pump and float switch provided are notorious on all makes and models for causing issues esp in high humidity climates. From the application above looks like it wont be an issue. Run the condensate line with the refrigerant lines and let gravity get rid of the water.

 

[Lunentucker]

It's the Bushwacker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QC8HXMJ

Yes, on the window unit, but I would have to cut a hole in the wall somewhere for it.

I think I'm going to ride out there rest of this summer and then install a inverter mini split heat pump unit this Fall.

Thank you very much! Regarding the A/C .. Yes the inverter H/P mini split is the best option. We use them frequently for I.T. rooms and supplemental cooling when required in commercial applications. Should only require at max 1-30 amp breaker. Also if you can get the water outside without needing a condensate pump I highly recommend doing so. The pump and float switch provided are notorious on all makes and models for causing issues esp in high humidity climates. From the application above looks like it wont be an issue. Run the condensate line with the refrigerant lines and let gravity get rid of the water.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks!
What gauge wire should I use from the panel to the disconnect? About 40-50 feet total.
I'll probably do a ton unit.

 

[Green_Gladiator]

Thank you very much! Regarding the A/C .. Yes the inverter H/P mini split is the best option. We use them frequently for I.T. rooms and supplemental cooling when required in commercial applications. Should only require at max 1-30 amp breaker. Also if you can get the water outside without needing a condensate pump I highly recommend doing so. The pump and float switch provided are notorious on all makes and models for causing issues esp in high humidity climates. From the application above looks like it wont be an issue. Run the condensate line with the refrigerant lines and let gravity get rid of the water.

Thanks!
What gauge wire should I use from the panel to the disconnect? About 40-50 feet total.
I'll probably do a ton unit.
[/QUOTE]

10g for 30 amp should be fine and sufficient for a 2-ton heat pump system. The condenser data tag will have the MOCP-Maximum Over Current Protection and confirm the exact breaker size required. 25-30amp for 208/230v 2ton system with 10g wire is within the range. You will also need comm wire for control back to the indoor unit. Should be able to obtain that from whoever you are purchasing the unit from or anywhere online. Power from the breaker to the outdoor unit, and comm wire back from the outdoor unit to the indoor for control. Thats the nice thing about inverters, they run on D.C. so feed back is all you need from the condenser.
Amazon.com: 14-4 Wire 14AWG 4-Conductor Control Cable for Mini Split Air Conditioner UL Listed (50 Ft.) : Home & Kitchen

Quick note - They will provide flared fittings to connect the indoor/outdoor unit to the refrigerant piping. These fittings are notorious for leaking if over-tightened or not seated properly. Take your time with those. When possible we remove the flares and solder the pipes direct. Once the blower is mounted on the wall it is a pita to remove and access the flares.

 

[Blade1668]

Most, if not all mini splits are actually heat pumps and can provide heat down to as low as 10 degrees or so. Keep in mind that the colder it gets the less efficient they are however, particularly below about 30 degrees or so.

That is the secondary selling point to me.

 

[Blade1668]

Quick note - They will provide flared fittings to connect the indoor/outdoor unit to the refrigerant piping. These fittings are notorious for leaking if over-tightened or not seated properly. Take your time with those. When possible we remove the flares and solder the pipes direct. Once the blower is mounted on the wall it is a pita to remove and access the flares.

Jay

I read your post to fast and failed to catch the soldering lines.
I was asked about just that.

FYI: I just finished up the wiring on mine. With less conventional method of disconnect 30 amp RV plug and outlet (with marked 20 amp breaker) just need to hook up lines, purge and pressure test as of now. ?

Not wanting to sidetrack this thread but it's along the subject somewhat.

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